Words by Matt Dursum
It’s 9pm in a busy Buenos Aires pizza restaurant. Besides the heinous amounts of cheese and incessant noise, one thing bugs me the most. A man across the table, at the far end of the restaurant, is removing, one-by-one, each and every olive from his perfectly good pizza. Then, with a look of disgust, he wraps them in his dirty napkin and throws it on the dirty table for the waiter to pick up. I well up in annoyance, turn to my pizza, and wonder why he could do such a thing.
Olives have been an integral part of human civilization for thousands of years. I can’t remember not having them in my fridge growing up. Yes, times were tough sometimes, and going without cheese or milk or butter, fine. But olives? A big fat, never. On top of my family’s dietary preferences, these small, oval fruits have left their mark on history, cuisine, and the mythologies surrounding the cradles of civilization.
A Little bit of Olive History
The cultivation of olives dates back to around 6000 to 8000 BC in the eastern Mediterranean, an area historically known as the Levant. The wild olive tree (Olea europaea) was soon brought to neighboring regions. Ancient societies turned this slow-growing sub-tropical tree into a pivotal element of their cultures and cuisine.
Photo by Nazar Hrabovyi on Unsplash
Greek and Roman civilizations valued olives for their nutritional and ceremonial benefits. People began perfecting the extraction of oil from olive seeds, which became a major commodity traded between civilizations. The Greeks even regarded the olive tree as a sacred symbol of peace and used olive branches as crowns for the winners of the first Olympic Games.
Myths and Properties
In the Mediterranean and Middle East, ancient myths evolved surrounding the olive tree. One such myth involves the contest between Athena, the goddess of war, strategy, and reason, and Poseidon, the god of the sea, for the patronage of the kingdom of Cecrops. As part of the contest to see who could appease the citizens the most, Poseidon forced his spear into the soil, creating a natural spring for people to enjoy. After tasting the saline sea water that only the god of the sea would find palatable, the citizens turned to Athena. As people gathered, Athena crouched down to the soil. Suddenly, an olive tree sprouted above the soil’s surface. Thus, the olive became a sacred emblem for the city, and it forever took Athena’s name.
Photo by Timothy Newman on Unsplash
The myths from antiquity portray the olive as a fruit tree sent from the divine. The reason for this is probably their utility, hardiness, and ability to withstand harsh climates, droughts, and even fire. This resilience has led to it becoming a symbol of endurance, perseverance, and immortality. Their only weakness is the cold. Temperatures sustained below freezing for too long will kill them.
The Many Uses for the Divine Fruit
From oil, tea, and cosmetics, olives produce several important commodities. The most used and prized is olive oil. This wonderful oil is full of nutrients, monounsaturated fats, and antioxidants. It’s a base ingredient in Middle Eastern, European, and American Cuisines. Oil producers extract extra Virgin olive oil from the large seeds of the olive by weighing down the olives with heavy stones. The pressure squeezes the oil from the seeds. As more weight is added, more of the pure olive oil drips down.
Photo by Benyamin Bohlouli on Unsplash
Olives with smaller seeds and thicker flesh make the perfect snacks. Olive farmers often cure thick-fleshed olives in brine, olive oil, and lime or dehydrate them in the sun or ferment them. This preserves these tasty and nutritious fruits and gets rid of their repulsively bitter taste. Even the biggest fan of bitter tastes will turn squeamish with raw olives.
Probably my favorite use for an olive tree is its leaves. Dried or fresh, olive leaves make a delicious tea that’s jam-packed with nutrients.
Even if you don’t like the taste of olives, you can’t deny that olives have been intertwined with human civilization for millennia. From their origins in the Mediterranean to their cultural and mythological significance, olives have become one of the most significant ingredients in our collective culinary legacy.