Winter greeted me as I touched down at JFK airport during an intense February blizzard with high winds and whiteout conditions. Exiting the airport from the AIRTRAIN at Jamaica station I was blasted by the coldest air I’ve felt in a decade. My lungs were weakened by living in warm latitudes for so long. As a first time visitor I felt overwhelmed navigating the old metro system and its impatient crowds. Once seated on the J train I looked out the window, transfixed to the borough of Queens covered in snow. When I reached my friends apartment on the border between Brooklyn and Queens I was eager to rest and prepare for two long days of exploring the city that has fascinated and inspired me my whole life: New York.
A Global City
The American dream started here. Prospects of a better life fueled by the desire to work hard and overcome any obstacle was embodied in the hearts and minds of people immigrating here from every corner of the planet. I couldn’t contain my excitement to see first hand the city that welcomed in waves of families, including my own. Nor could I prepare myself for the wonderful mixture of cultures, languages, and foods on every corner, in every Borough.
Live music and creativity beaming from every nook and cranny in centuries old brown stone buildings, each holding unlimited secrets of their own. An urban hodgepodge of globalism and multiculturalism at its finest.
Littered with glory and painful sacrifice, greed and villainy, and love and hope, the city holds an infinite amount of stories. These stories have molded the world’s collective consciousness like nothing in history. From jazz to hip hop, high rise architecture to finance, it takes ideas and dreams and spits them out into the world. No amount of time is enough to understand it completely.
I quickly noticed that the city is in a period of rapid growth. Entire neighborhoods are reshaping into something new. Restaurants, art galleries, and high rises are going up and coming down everywhere you look. With only a few days to spend, I was determined to capture as much of the city’s heart as I could, seeing what it has to offer, and getting humbled in the process.
The Itinerary
The five burrows are sprawled out on a few swampy islands at the mouth of the Hudson River. Brooklyn and Queens sit at the tip of Long island and are the largest burrows by area. The Bronx is the northernmost burrow and to its south, separated by the Harlem River, is Manhattan island. South of New York Harbor and west of Brooklyn is the lesser known, lesser visited Staten Island. And across the Hudson from Manhattan lies Jersey City. Not a burrow, although to the first time visitor appears every bit of New York, it’s very much made to feel separate. Even PATH, the subway line connecting Manhattan to Jersey City, is separated by a glass border wall.
Even though I only had a few days here I was determined to see every burrow. Each one has its own unique elements and vibe. However I am writing about my most productive 48 hours in the city and how to get the most out of two days here. Early mornings, good shoes, and smart usage of New York’s weathered transit system can make this possible. Every traveler is different and a destinations significance is very subjective. For me New York embodies a true cultural melting pot, the harmonizing of different cultures and ideas, that through the last few hundred years have created an immense collection of stories and life experiences that have shaped the worlds culture. I wanted to see the neighborhoods that have spawned these experiences as well as the famous sights every first time visitor must see.
The crime ridden streets and social turmoil that plagued the city for generations have now become a slow trickle. New York is now one of the safest big cities in the country and every borough is relatively safe and accessible during the day. The biggest danger is traffic. Maintaining visuals with your surroundings is key.
New Yorkers are an impatient bunch. Be like them. Walk fast, don’t loiter, and don’t block sidewalks. The train is no exception: when a train stops move to the side, don’t block people that are exiting, and get in as fast as possible. Delays are common on New York’s trains. Construction, malfunctions, weather, or some idiot riding on the roof- this was the cause of one of my delayed trips- will throw off your schedule and make everyone rush to figure out an alternative route. Having a phone with a good transit app that gives travel details and updates is indispensable, especially if you’re short on time.
Like most people, unless you live and work in Manhattan and can walk or take a cab, I used the train system extensively. Delays and common annoyances like ignorant tourists and repugnant mystery stenches aside it’s the best way to travel in the city. New York’s boroughs are vast and well connected, with the exception of Brooklyn. Although I walked most of the way through Manhattan I did rely on trains to make up ground and save time. A single ride costs a couple dollars so I opted to purchase a seven day pass for $29. It allows you to enter freely on any train or bus unless you’re switching to the PATH line which connects Manhattan to New Jersey.
Day 1
Starting out at my friends place in Brooklyn I started off with a lox, capers, and cream cheese bagel at Brooklyn Barista on Wyckoff Ave. Bagels are one of those foods that New York does the best. Catching the L line from Myrtle-Wyckoff into Manhattan I switched trains to the C line and started my journey in New York’s largest and most famous green space.
Central Park
No other park in the world is as famous and infamous as Manhattan’s Central Park. With countless movie locations, crime scenes, and pop culture references to choose from one could get lost reenacting their favorite moments. The sprawling park stretches from the southern periphery of Harlem on 110th street to Midtown Manhattan’s 59th street and its towering high rises. It’s past reputation as the home to countless murders and muggings has, like the rest of the city, been cleaned up.
Accessing the park can be done from any street between 59th and 110th. The most popular starting points are on the 72nd, 81st, 86th, and 96th street metro stations. The northernmost 110th street station, Harlem North, is the best place to start if you have extra time and really want to cover the entire park. For people with limited time like myself 86th street was the ideal point to embark on an hour long walk through this vast green space. The trails allow you to saunter from east to west as you make your way to the other end, experiencing the famous landmarks as they come. Starting North to South I’ve included my favorite:
Belvedere Castle
Set atop the parks highest point is the 19th century gothic revival castle. Inside you get spectacular views of the park and the cityscape as well as enjoying the delightful architecture. It’s weathered facade and interior have been featured in many movies and TV shows including Sesame Street.
The Ramble
The wooded area north of the Lake is full of peaceful nature trails, birds, animals, and scenic wooden bridges. It’s the perfect spot for bird watching and escaping the noise of the city. As the seasons change so does the foliage. Autumn crimson and golden leaves cover the paths as do wildflowers in the spring and ferns and moss in the summer. In winter it’s mostly barren but still visited especially by groups like the Central Park Conservancy.
Strawberry Fields
On the 8th of December 1980 a man named Mark David Chapman fired several shots from a .38 special revolver into John Lennon as he left his residence at the Dakota Building, killing him within hours. The harrowing event, which affected everyone the world over, was commemorated by building a peaceful retreat full of flowers and terraces and a large ground mosaic saying “imagine” just across the street from the site of the murder. Unfortunately it’s one of the most visited parts of Central Park and often plagued by tour groups.
The Lake
The parks centre is a large man-made lake surrounded by the majority of the parks sights. It’s spanned by the cast-iron Bow Bridge and surrounded by trees and trails. In the summer people can rent rowboats and enjoy the water fowl and natural surroundings. Just next to it is the smaller Conservatory Water or Boat Pond as its often known as. This is a famous place for model boat hobbyists. In the winter it’s used as an ice skating rink. There’s a large Hans Christian Andersen statue here which is popular amongst children and literature fans.
Bethesda Terrace
Bethesda Fountain and its surrounding terrace is probably the most famous of Central Parks landmarks. The beautiful facade of the terrace is adorned with sculptures by Jacob Wrey Mould which depict the changing seasons. Street musicians and artists flock here in the summer to busk next to the lake and fountain.
Sheep Meadow
The big open meadow is where people in Manhattan come to play frisbee and picnic on the grass. Surrounded by midtown’s massive skyline, it’s one of the most iconic views of the city.
The Mall
Just south of Bethesda Terrace is the long stretch of paved pathways known as the Mall. Its main pathways are lined with trees and statues of famous writers. In the summertime artists, street performers, street food vendors, and skateboarders congregate here. At the end of The Mall, just past the 65th street transverse, is the small but charming Central Park Zoo.
The Pond
The classic New York scene: ice skaters making circles around the frozen pond next to the small Gapstow Bridge surrounded by snow covered trees and towering skyscrapers in the backdrop. Nothing beats the photo opportunity from atop the rocks at its north end. In the summer it’s full of water fowl and the forested trails of the Hallet Nature Sanctuary.
Midtown Manhattan
Manhattans centre is the largest business district in the world and home to most of the city’s most iconic and historic buildings. Bustling movements of people move about the glitzy streats both day and night, going to clubs, theaters, concerts, business meetings, or taking photos of the many landmarks that surround you. The glitz and glamor of the entertainment and fashion industries and high end retail have become as much a part of Midtown as the centuries old buildings towering above you. These are the neighborhoods that gave it the nickname, “The Big Apple.”
The Museum of Modern Art
Between 5th and 6th avenues on 53rd street lies one of the worlds most influential modern art museums and a must see for art fanatics. It was developed in the late 20s by Abby Aldrich Rockefeller (wife of John D. Rockefeller, Jr.) and Mary Quinn Sullivan and Lillie P. Bliss, widely known collectively as “the ladies.” These woman created MoMA into the important worldwide establishment it is today. The museum also hosts impressive architectural exhibits and a world class library dedicated to collections on art, art history, architecture, and design.
Rockefeller Center
Nineteen Art Deco buildings covering twenty two acres were built on the former Columbia University grounds in the 1930s with the vision of creating a home for radio and tv broadcasting as well as theater performance. Originally slated as the new home for the Metropolitan Opera House the builders needed financial backing and convinced John D Rockefeller to not only fund the project but to lend the family name to it. Over the course of eight years the Art-Deco buildings rose and their purpose as entertainment production hubs became fulfilled.
At the center of the complex is the famous 66 story Art-Deco 30 Rockefeller Plaza. Its home to NBC studios New York as well as major corporate offices and fashion outlets. Its been used as a set for many famous movies and TV shows including NBC’s 30 rock, which is set inside the building itself, and many other late night shows like the Tonight Show.
On its roof the cruise ship shaped observation deck is a popular viewing platform for the New York skyline. It’s best to book your tickets and entrance time in advance on the Top of The Rock website: https://www.topoftherocknyc.com/. The views of Manhattan and the surrounding boroughs are spectacular and is definitely worth seeing.
Radio City Music Hall
From Pink Floyd to the Rockettes, Wheel of Fortune to Jeopardy, many culturally significant performances and TV shows have been filmed here. It opened in 1932 along with the other buildings of Rockefeller Center after its design was agreed upon. It has an Indiana Limestone Art Deco facade which makes its appearance unique from the European theaters it was originally conceived to look like. The massive auditorium is the main showpiece, with its 5,960 seats and ringed ceiling representing the Northern Lights radiating out from the stage. The music hall is one of the nations most iconic music and theater venues.
St Patrick’s Cathedral
Standing directly across the street from Rockefeller Center is the seat of the archbishop of the Roman Catholic Archdiocese of New York- St Patrick’s Cathedral. Construction began in 1858 but was halted during the Civil War. It was finally completed in 1878 with several other additions added throughout the 20th century. Its neo-gothic structure and beautiful facade have been featured in many films and many funeral masses of prominent figures were held here including those for Babe Ruth and Robert F Kennedy.
Times Square
Neon billboards, pedestrian traffic, conmen, hot dog venders, and pretty much anyone you can imagine from every corner of the world all crammed next to each other taking selfies in front of the giant advertisements and theaters lining 7th Ave and Broadway. Every American has seen photos and videos of this place and many people have it on their bucket list. New Yorkers generally avoid it at all cost, especially during holidays. New Years Eve at Time Square consists of standing for several hours crammed next to irritated people of all ages, needing to urinate, often drunk, and in a hurry to get out of this horrible place once that glittery ball drops. I’m writing from complete ignorance and inexperience, for some it’s probably a blast.
Times Square sits on the former low lying river lands that became a horse carriage production zone and earned the name Longacre Square, borrowed from a neighborhood in London noted for its horse and carriage manufacturing. Soon theaters moved into the square, pushed by overdevelopment in lower Manhattan, and LongAcre Square became the entertainment center of the city. Back in the early 20th century “entertainment” generally meant brothels and prostitution and that’s what this area became known for.
In 1904 the owner and head publisher of the New York Times newspaper Adolph S. Ochs moved their headquarters to Longacre Square. The New York Times building was built at the corner of 42nd Street and Broadway in 1904. As a promotion for their new headquarters the New York Times, which was already one of the country’s most read news outlets, hosted a New Years ball drop from their newly built headquarters. The event was a massive success and the original fireworks display from the roof ended and was replaced by an illuminated ball drop, an idea originally conceived by Ochs as a grander display that would attract more visitors. Ochs also convinced the mayor to open a subway station next to the Times Building, calling it Times Square station and effectively changing the name of the square from Longacre to Times Square.
Even after the New York Times moved their offices the annual New Years Ball drop is held at the original building location and attracts millions of visitors annually. Because of the squares popularity and association with celebrations massive televised crowds gathered here for Victory in Europe Day on May 8, 1945 and shortly after on August 15, 1945, an even larger crowd gathered to celebrate Victory over Japan Day and the end of the Second World War.
After the war, as the city’s prestige waned and crime grew the area around Times Square became the most dangerous in Manhattan. Sex shops, brothels, and drug dens took over the once high-end buildings. The former majestic theaters abandoned and left to decay became the home to the newly emerging porn industry. Adult movies often were shown next to foreign films, attracting not only those wanting to see the latest porno flicks on the big screen but also people eagerly awaiting the debut of the newest Kung Fu flick out of Hong Kong.
Through a series of cleanup policies, increased police presence, the buying up of low income properties to be converted into family friendly businesses, and ultimately the closing of the porno theaters, Times Square slowly turned into its current family friendly self. Public opinion of the clean up, spurred by Disney, Mayor Giuliani, and other investors, was split between those who praised the new family friendly entertainment and shopping block and those who said it displaced thousands of low income people and “disneyfied” the area. Regardless of your opinion the square is now a large exploited- fun for the whole family- corporate advertisement in the heart of midtown.
Chrysler Building
In 1930 the Chrysler building was the tallest man made structure in the world until the Empire State Building took away its title eleven months later. At this time New York surpassed London in population, becoming the largest city in the world. Most of these ten million people were crammed in the narrow island borough of Manhattan. After WWI as the United States Economy surged ahead a new style of design known as Art-Deco took over and characterized most of New York’s new high rise facades. This along with the 1916 Zoning Resolution, which required buildings to set back from their base allowing sunlight to permeate through to the streets below influenced the tapered off shape of Manhattan’s skyscrapers even more.
As the automobile industry rose Walter Chrysler and his car company became one of the fastest growing in America. The original concept for the building was created by New York real estate developer William H. Reynolds. Reynolds aspired to build the tallest building in the world however could not fund such a massive project. Chrysler could, and Reynolds sold the design by architect William Van Alen and plot to Chrysler for $2 million. With Van Alen and Chryslers vision the project took shape and was completed in 1930.
Grand Central Terminal
Manhattan’s famous transportation hub is another cultural landmark that was built to mesmerize people upon first sight. It serves the 4, 5, 6, 7, and S subway lines and the MTA Metro-North Railroad and sees thousands of commuters, shoppers, and visitors per day. The central opal clock, which has been made famous in TV and film, is still a famous meeting point and icon of the city. The history of this beautiful and functional building is one that portrays the imagination and ambition that drives this city and its people.
As New York became the financial and industrial capital of the United States railroads became ever more necessary to carry the flow of goods and people throughout the boroughs and beyond. The first railroad line in New York City was built in 1830 connecting Prince Street with the new neighborhoods pushing northward to the banks of the Harlem river.
Smog from the steam trains began to reside in the crowded streets of lower Manhattan, causing the population to complain. In response the government of New York banned steam engines from anywhere below 42 street. The competing railway companies wanted a convenient hub to expand their business from New York to the rest of the United States and made the economic business decision to share a common hub in Manhattan. Shipping tycoon Cornelius Vanderbilt saw the inefficiency of having separate railroads competing with each other so he bought up all their stock and merged the major players into one company. This company would go on to control and modernize New York’s transportation network for decades to come. The 42nd street station-at the time more of a boxy depot- would go on to become known as Grand Central Station.
After New York started expanding and Manhattan’s population shifted northward a new heart of the city started taking shape around Grand Central. Like the rest of the city the railroads wanted their realestate to be grander and bigger than all the rest; something to encapsulate the wild economic growth and splendor of America’s largest city. Like most big projects of the day a bid was started to see who could design a true architectural masterpiece that would replace the inadequate depot and last through generations of expansion. Reed & Stem won the project but the railroad enlisted the help of another firm Warren & Wetmore.
Grand Central Station came out to incorporate the best aspects of both firms visions. Its elaborate archways and carved facade, marble floors, and grand open spaces were just the exterior of a practically built, funcional train station that would become one of the most beloved stations in the entire world.
Empire State Building
Any number of accolades fail to personify this marvelous structure. The “world’s tallest,” the “most beautiful,” the “most iconic,” have been used to describe the Empire State Building over and over again yet when you’re standing underneath it there is nothing that can describe it. As of 2019 its New York’s 4th tallest building yet it still conjures up awe, nostalgia, and admiration. You’ve seen it in films, photographs, and countless social media posts. For 40 years it was the world’s tallest and became the big, bold, and proud symbol of New York City.
Centered in the middle of Manhattan between 33rd and 34th street the Empire State stands outside the periphery of midtown and lower manhattan’s skyscraper conglomerations. The 443.2 m tall, 102 story Art Deco masterpiece was built in the midst of the Great Depression. Over 3000 workers worked tirelessly day and night to bring the massive structure to fruition. In just over one year the building was completed in 1931.
The project was started by a group of wealthy investors including brothers from the wealthy DuPont family. A Competitive drive between architects and investors to build the tallest building in the world was heating up. Plans for the Empire States floor space and height were changed to construct an observation tower on the top floors. The architects worried that the builders of the Chrysler building would add an antenna to their building thus stripping the world’s tallest title from them. In response to this fear a 16-story crown was built with an antenna putting the buildings height at 380m, significantly taller than the Chrysler Building.
Shortly after its construction the world fell in love with the building. It has been depicted in movies and TV shows hundreds of times, leaving an indelible imprint on the American psyche. Huge marketing campaigns were taken on to attract visitors from around the world, leading to tours and events being held in and around the tower. Its completion during the Great Depression seemed to hold back profitability and many offices were left vacant early on. This would change after WWII when the tower would once again became a symbol of American power.
K-Town
Since the 80’s the area around the Garment District, located on West 32nd Street between Fifth and Sixth avenues, has become Manhattans Koreatown- also known as Korea Way. A few restaurants and a Korean bookstore called Koryo Bookstore opened in the late 70’s and shortly after new business owners moved in.
The neighborhood, more specifically a gritty hotel on the corner of 32nd street, kept visitor numbers low for many years. The neighborhood was almost exclusively visited by Asian Americans until the 2010s when Korean food and culture started to become popular in America. This new found fascination coupled with South Korea’s surging economy and numbers of tourists and students eager to study overseas caused this once sleepy corner to boom.
Today there are hundreds of Korean restaurants and businesses with storefront logos written in bright hangul lettering. Korean Karaoke bars, cosmetic stores, and gift shops attract thousands of visitors a month. Like in Busan and Seoul businesses occupy buildings vertically with many businesses residing many floors above the ground floor.
Cultural events and celebrations are held on 32nd street Korean Way. The largest is in October when the annual Korean Parade takes place. During this parade and festival Korean dancers, food vendors, and performers take to 32nd street in celebration of Korean American Culture and heritage.
Flatiron Building
The beautiful 22 story Flatiron building stands on 5th avenue next to Madison square. It was built in the renaissance revival style in 1902 and became one of the cities tallest buildings. It was one of the first buildings to use a steel skeleton which made it easy to build vertically using minimal floor space. Upon its completion it garnered a lot of criticism from those who thought it was too narrow to withstand high winds. A century later its one the most photographed and filmed buildings in the city; made popular in TV and films and becoming one of the few structures that symbolize New York.
Washington Square Park
As you reach the foot of 5th avenue in Greenwich village next to NYU you enter Washington Square Park; famous for its Washington Square Arch, cultural events, artists, and chess tournaments. Students and locals come here to meet and socialize as well as walk their animals and enjoy a reprieve from the congested streets. Musicians and artists often use the park to showcase and perform although changes in street performance policies have started to have an affect on their numbers.
The park was conceived in the early 19th century and several additions were added throughout the years including its famous fountain and arch. The large English Elm, known as the Hangman’s Elm, is another well known landmark within the park although according to many historians no such hangings were ever carried out on this tree. Aside from the Elm tree many other legends, both living and deceased, have lived near this park and frequented it from time to time. Billie Holiday, Barack Obama, and many writers and poets of the beat generation.
Katz delicatessen
Since 1888 Katz has been the most respected and loved deli in the Lower East Side. Pricy, crowded, and sickenly famous it is however a MUST-VISIT for carnivorous foodies who crave the best deli imaginable. I stopped here for a late lunch after walking around the city for the Day. Walking miles around Manhattan will build up an appetite so the huge portions of slow cooked meats and homemade pickles nourished my soul.
Famous for that, “I’ll have what she’s having” scene in the movie When Harry Met Sally; Katz draws in a steady patronage of locals, visitors, and celebrities to this day and aside from the sandwich prices not much has changed. The long lines move fast and you can find a seat pretty quickly. The go-to meal, recommended by the late Anthony Bourdain, is the Pastrami on Rye, with an ice cold Dr. Browns Cream Soda.
Noho
The expensive bohemian neighborhood North of Houston or Noho as its known is still an epicenter for boutique store fronts, quaint coffee shops, lounges, and theaters. The six blocks are full of low lying architectural gems including Astor Place Theater which is the original home of the Blue Man Group. Dashwood Books is an establishment specializing in contemporary photography books and has one of the best collections I’ve ever seen.
New York University is located next to the neighborhood. Students frequent the streets and cafes here. Housing is expensive but the apartments located here exude an old New York feel. Many buildings have a neo-Renaissance facade, weathered from time. The central draw for people living here is the convenience of having easy access to the New York transit.
East Village
A neighborhood once characterized by waves of European and Jewish immigrants, then by artists and beatnik writers, hippies, counterculture heroes, and punk rock; its continuously evolving, innovating, and influencing pop culture. From Allen Ginsberg to the Ramones, it’s been a nest for creative thought and experimental endeavors for decades. Establishments have come and gone like the famous CBGB’s club, which hosted the first gigs of many artists like: Blondie, the Beastie Boys, Talking Heads, and the Misfits.
While having a wonderful collection of record stores, boutique shops, and unique storefronts, the neighborhood comes alive at night. It’s full of dive bars, clubs, and restaurants of all sorts, jammed together and beckoning a visit. Bouncers and dress codes are almost nonexistent along with pretension. The accessibility of its late night scene is what fostered its famous explosions of creativity in the first place.
After spending the day in Midtown I finally made my way here for a late night meal and drinks with friends. The cold February wind was blowing hard as we slipped around on the streets to the next bar. If you have the energy this is probably the perfect place to end up. One of the many great things about New York, and this neighborhood in particular, is that there’s something to do at all hours of the day; a perfect landscape for those who despise sleep and can rely on moonlight alone to recharge their minds.
For a meal we ate at Shimiadao yunnan noodle house, a popular place tucked away under an old East Village mixed use building. They specialize in the Yunnanese rice noodle soup called “Crossing the Bridge Noodles.” The soups are full of Chinese herbs and vegetables and incredibly delicious.
Afterwards we ended the night at Sake Bar Decibel, a traditional Japanese izakaya located in the basement of an old building. Decibel specializes in Nihonshu or, as it’s commonly referred to in the West, sake. Their collection is extensive, often having brands not on the menu, making our night as sake drinkers extra special.
Day 2
My second day in the city started off early because unlike many people in this city I follow a puritan sleep schedule and cannot stay out past midnight or sleep in past 8am. With a quick bagel, a liter of water, and two cups of coffee I set out from Brooklyn onto the J train and into Manhattan for an early morning Ferry ride.
Staten Island Ferry
In my mind the ferry ride is an experience every first time visitor should have. Every 30 minutes crowds of day trippers and locals commuting to work cue up and crowd in the large diesel powered ferry. The ferry service has been in operation since 1817 and is a primary commute for locals to and from Manhattan.
The ferry departs from Whitehall ferry terminal in lower Manhattan. The service is free for all passengers which is perfect for those with lower incomes. The views of the Manhattan skyline, Ellis island, Governors island, and the Statue of Liberty are second to none. most visitors to New York skip Staten Island and instead hop on the first available return ferry to Manhattan. New York City’s most overlooked burrow is worth a visit if you have time.
Pop culture has been influenced throughout the years by the film scenes set here and by the people who rode it. Films like Working Girl, How to Lose a Guy in 10 Days , and The Dark Knight used the ferries and their backdrop in their scenes. Many members of the Staten Island based Hip Hop collective the Wu Tang Clan used the ferry on a regular basis. The RZA, Wu Tang’s organizer used to frequently ride the ferry to Manhattan to see Chinese Martial Arts films in midtown cinemas and to frequent Chinatown.
Lower Manhattan
Once upon a time before Europeans colonized North America and spread like germs throughout the land this swampy forest at the tip of a narrow island at the mouth of a great river was home to the Lenape people. In the early 17th century Dutch fur traders began settling this land and driving the original inhabitants away, claiming the land for the Netherlands and calling it New Amsterdam.
Shortly after the English conquered the area and named it New York after the future heir to the English throne James II. The neighborhood quickly became a financial center and several landfills were added to expand its borders past its original shoreline and to fill the pre-existing canals. New industries fueled by the industrial revolution and America’s expanding transportation infrastructure and communications technologies fueled the city’s growth. Waves of immigrants poured in along with workers and businesses creating a densely packed competitive environment in an area less than 20 square kilometers and a few kilometers wide. Immigration, cheap steal, and a booming economy created the demand of taller and taller buildings and New York, in competition with Chicago, would lead the world in their design, shaping the skyline of Lower Manhattan into a towering gargantuan attracting the attention of the world. Unfortunately not all attention is wanted. When American power was flexed in places with fervent religious dogma and regional conflict animosities were expressed in unimaginable violence which brought Lower Manhattan’s most revered landmarks down to smouldering rubble and killing thousands of people. Bitter history plagues all cities like it does each individual and no place has overcome tragedy like Lower Manhattan.
China Town
Manhattans Chinatown is home to the Western Hemisphere’s largest Chinese community. Fast paced, loud, and energetic, stepping into this enclave sandwiched between Little Italy and the Lower East Side transports you to another world. Originally populated by Cantonese speakers, the neighborhood has seen an increase in Chinese from other regions around China. Its location was once the home of New York’s most notorious ghetto known as the Five Points neighborhood, once considered the most dangerous neighborhood in the world and made famous by the book Gangs of New York.
The first person credited with settling here was a man named Ah Ken in 1858. He started a cigar shop on Park Row and supposedly rented out rooms to other Chinese immigrants. In the late 19th century racist policies in Western states forced many immigrants to the East Coast. The growing population halted in 1882 with the passing of the Chinese Exclusion Act. This piece of legislation was the first time the United States specifically banned members of an ethnic group. Over the years the population remained stable and in response to anti-chinese sentiment and attacks many families and businesses formed into organized associations known as “tongs.” These units formed the bedrock for organized political, economic, and crime syndicates that fiercely competed with each other.
In the mid 60’s America’s political and social landscape was changing rapidly. In 1965 Congress passed the Immigration and Nationality Act of 1965 which allowed more immigration from Asian countries. Chinatown’s population exploded and waves of immigrants, mostly from Southern China, began moving into the neighborhood. With the rise of housing prices and the dominance of the Cantonese population many new immigrants from other regions of China and elsewhere in Asia settled in other Chinatown communities around the five boroughs. Today as gentrification continues to creep in Chinatown continues to maintain its charm and character, albeit with a wealthier population that can keep up with the rising rents.
Today Chinatown is still full of charm and grit and plenty of amazing Cantonese restaurants. Dim Sum can be found in New York’s other Chinatowns but to this day Chinatown Manhattan holds the highest concentration of great establishments.
Out of all these places one of the oldest and most respected is Nom Wah Tea Parlor. Set in a small corner of the narrow Doyers street just off Bowery its unassuming 1950’s diner layout betrays the fact that it still produces some of New York’s best, affordable, everyday dimsum.
World Trade Center
Most Americans who were alive and able to form memories in the summer of 2001 will easily recall where they were and what they were doing the exact moment the news came out. Much like JFK’s assassination the footage of smoke coming out of the North Tower and subsequent strike into the southern facade of the South Tower by a large passenger plane permanently etched awful images into the observers minds, never to be forgotten. The events that followed shook the world. A new era had begun with the Western powers’ vulnerability exposed by islamist extremists setting a chain reaction of tightened security, war, and global fear.
The original World Trade Center opened on April 4, 1973 amid criticism of its ugly boxed design and proposed location. It became the home of several multinational corporate offices, seeing hundreds of thousands of workers and visitors a day. The complex consisted of seven large buildings, two of which were the prominent twin towers, each rising 417 m making them the tallest buildings in the world until the Sears Tower (Willis Tower) was built in Chicago.
The attacks on 911 left 2,753 people dead and a huge area of Lower Manhattan covered in hazardous debris and smouldering metal. Many questions regarding the future of the property remained and people’s desires were polarizing. For New Yorkers this was a giant knife in the back and sensitivities ran high. To oversee the redevelopment process the Lower Manhattan Development Corporation was formed and after a few initial drafts-thrown out by the public- an open bid began. Architect Daniel Libeskind won the competition for the redesign with his Memory Foundations plan. It originally called for 7 buildings arranged in a spiral pattern of increasing height with World Trade Center 1 being the tallest. As the project began many changes were made which resulted in the reduction of many of the buildings heights. With all these changes to the complex’s design some people were skeptical about its future.
The central tower however remained unchanged and construction began in 2006. By the time the super tall structure, known colloquially as Freedom Tower, was finished and the final spire was added in 2013 it had surpassed the WIllis Tower in height, making it the tallest structure in the United States and the tallest in the western hemisphere. In 2009, the Port Authority changed the official name of the building to One World Trade Center, making it more relatable to the public.
With its central spire the building reaches a height of 541 m or 1,776 feet; a patriotic ode to the founding of the United States. Much of the buildings design remains practical as well as aesthetic and symbolic, with extra security features that make it similar to a fortress: blast proof windows, a reinforced concrete base, 91 cm thick reinforced concrete walls in all stairwells and elevator shafts, and a massive central steel frame.
Standing underneath the beautiful building its shape resembles a giant glass pyramid gently sloping towards the sky and reflecting the skys natural colors; creating an effect of almost blending in like a chameleon. The tower has a cubic base up to the 20th floor. From here on transitional edges retreat back creating an elongated square antiprism along the buildings facade eventually forming an octagon towards the middle, and ending in a glass parapet oriented 45 degrees from the towers base.
Reflecting Absence is the name of the memorial of the 2001 attacks. The memorial is a peaceful yet striking homage to the victims. The wooded open space leads to two pools located at the footprints of the original towers. The names of the victims are etched into the black stone surface as water cascades down its sides and into an abyss symbolizing the buildings central shaft. I spent time here gazing at the water and contemplating the horrible events and how the people of New York must have felt to have gone through such a tragedy. For me the most endearing element of the memorial was seeing the survivor tree, a callery pear tree that somehow survived after being buried with burning rubble and ash during the towers collapse.
St. Paul’s Chapel of Trinity Church
“The Little Chapel That Stood” is a moniker for the chapel that withstood the collapse of the World Trade center towers with hardly any damage. The chapel was built in 1766 and at the time was New York’s tallest building. After the attack on 911 it served as an impromptu memorial for the victims, receiving crowds of people placing wreaths around its fences. Today it’s the oldest building still in use in New York City and a beautiful landmark of Lower Manhattan.
Brooklyn
New York’s most populous borough is booming. If Manhattan has the highest concentration of billionaires anywhere in the world then Brooklyn must have one of the highest concentrations of entrepreneurs. Continuous gentrification and commodification of the once troubled neighborhoods that gave us so much great music continues as hipsters have given way to corporate types and tech geeks. Housing and rental prices rising, building heights competing with Manhattans, new multinational corporations taking ahold; all this and you still have to take the train into Manhattan to travel North to South in the borough.
A perfect starting point for any trip to Brooklyn would be the Brooklyn bridge. The 1,595 foot suspension bridge is the world’s oldest steel-wire suspension bridge. It was built from 1869 to 1883 and has since become a National Historic Landmark and one of the most visited places in the city.
Once across the bridge you enter the cobblestone streets of Dumbo which is an acronym for Down Under the Manhattan Bridge Overpass. The Manhattan Bridge spans the East River just north of the Brooklyn Bridge and the neighborhood incorporates access to both bridges. The neighborhood was once owned by one man, David Walentas, with his Two Trees Management company and turned the once industrial shipping zone into one of New York’s most expensive communities. Many of Dumbos streets are still paved in cobblestone preserving the antique feeling of old New York.
During the evening I joined some friends in Queens at Queens Brewery located on Covert and Wyckoff street. The beer was excellent and the live music ambiance was fun. Brooklyn and Queens are in a friendly competition for building quality microbreweries and each one has its own special character and outstanding quality beers. This being the Northeast there are also many Cideries popping up around town, many of which are outstanding, often sourcing their apples from farms up state. So here I was sitting down with an old friend, listening to live music, and sampling some of beautiful beers and ciders; a perfect ending to two full days exploring the city.
As I made my way towards our friends wedding venue deep in the Catskill mountains, in a car crammed with close friends of mine, I couldn’t stop gazing out the window as the city swept by, allowing me to peer deeper into people’s lives here, just enough to get a taste. This city, much like other global cities like Tokyo and London, has an infectious character that is as charming as it is bewildering to the first time visitor. So much modern history has gone down within its city limits, it’s often hard to take a break from gawking at the location of this or that. New York’s a wild and unique place, a bit tamer than it used to be, sure; it’s grown up and embraced its over the top persona with an attitude only deserving of a New Yorker. During my next visit I’ll spend more time in the outer boroughs and the historic neighborhood of Harlem and exploring the music scene and it’s history in more detail. America’s largest city after all is worth revisiting over and over again and I look forward to repeating the experience as many times as I can.
