In May 2018 my brother was set to graduate from Humboldt State University so a spring road trip from Santa Barbara to California’s Northwest coast was in order; fueled by the expectation of family time and exploration of the coastal redwoods of the Lost Coast, Avenue of the Giants, Redwood National Park, and my most northern surfing session. The drive is long, 594 miles to be exact, and full of interesting sights along the way. The first stop was in San Francisco, then Humboldt County, Del Norte County, and finally Napa County before making the long drive south. It was part surf trip, part family reunion, and all around journey into the American Endor.
After resting at a friend’s house in San Francisco- deserving of it’s own post soon- I headed north across the Golden Gate bridge; the icon of the American west and into Marin county.
I enjoy finding little American diners while on the road. In the town of Cloverdale I stopped at Zini’s diner. The place is pure Americana; older locals in their 80’s pack the place and use the corners of their eyes to glance at the lone millennial chugging coffee in the corner. I’m sure I’m one of thousands who have stumbled in for a meal.
The landscape changes dramatically once you enter Mendocino county. On the way I enjoyed stopping at every rest stop. Initially, following my brother’s advise I made my first stop, to fill my canteen with fresh well water from the mountains. This is something we don’t get in Southern California and something I’ve been craving for a long time. After chugging an entire liter while driving I stopped at the next rest area to relieve myself and fill up on more water. I repeated this process a couple of times; excessive-absolutely, but well worth it for a fresh-water starved Santa Barbarian.
On the way up the highway 101 about an hour outside of Eureka I got off on the exit for highway 254 also known as The Avenue of the Giants. The two lane highway parallels the 101 which cuts right through Humboldt Redwoods State Park. Massive trees give way to even more massive trees which line the narrow highway. Several groves provide parking spaces where you can pull over and hike around. The whole drive took me three hours as each grove is worth a stop. The Eel River is also accessible from several spots along the road.
The Coast Redwood– Sequoia sempervirens, together with the Giant Redwood- Sequoiadendron giganteum in the Western Sierra Nevada of California, and the Dawn Redwood- Metasequoia glyptostroboides of China, is one of three living species of true redwoods. These species and their extinct cousins once covered the entire planet some 160 million years ago. The Coast Redwood is the tallest of the three and could potentially climb to a height of 400ft or more although the tallest living redwood Hyperion is 379ft.
At 362 feet and 17ft in diameter the Dyerville giant fallen tree in Founders Grove was once the tallest tree in the park until it fell in 1991. Two millennia went by before the giant came crashing to the ground. The impact registered seismically and was heard from miles away.
Patrick’s Point State Park- Located off Highway 101 just north of Trinidad has tons of camping options as well as hiking trails. There is a famous left point break which breaks right near the campground. The surf break needs a solid swell and a south-easterly offshore breeze or else it gets blown out easily. The hiking is easy and picturesque.
Trinidad- The tiny town north of the college town of Arcata has a beautiful coastline and a few interesting little shops.
After spending time with my family and watching my brother graduate we drove up the road to Prairie Creek Redwoods State Park. On the way, just past the small town of Orick, there is a meadow and a visible road with plenty of signs for Elk. There, the majestic animals congregate, resting in the tall grass and slowly graze. It’s quite a sight to see the remarkable animals at a close proximity in the wild.
Prairie Creek Redwoods State Park is similar to the Avenue of the Giants but even more remote. The groves are just as impressive with more options for hiking. Not to mention the huge trees make it all the way to the ocean and this stretch of coast is one of the most scenic if you can make the long hike in. Several trees passing the 300ft mark exist in this park with hundreds of other fallen or uniquely featured giants scattered about.
We all felt a deep spiritual connection to these forests; it’s hard not to when you’re surrounded by thousand year old giant trees towering over you and thousands of other plant and animal species adorning the floor and canopy above. Per acre there is more biomass in these forests than in the rainforests of the tropics and the purity of the place humbles you.
After driving through Prairie Creek State Park we headed up north to the mighty Klamath river. We drove west on Klamath beach road and took the Alder camp road loop which meanders up into the forest turning into coastal drive when it reaches the cliff and links back up with Klamath beach road and the River mouth.
On the drive, which at times gets fairly narrow, you pass buildings that look like old farm houses. Back in WW2 these were built to confuse a potential invading enemy into thinking there were civilians living in these homes when in reality they housed troops, equipment, and several anti-aircraft guns.
As you drive past the old structures you are greeted by the wide mouth of the Klamath river and the sound of massive pinnipeds wrestling on the shore. The fast current flows straight into the Pacific Ocean while sea lions make runs swimming into the river to catch fish. Life is showcased in all its glory as three ecosystems converge into one.
On the beach are the ceremonial sweat lodges of the Yurok People of Del Norte and Humboldt counties.
Surfing in Humboldt or anywhere north of Sonoma county is no joke. With such cold water, big animals, and dramatic coastline surfing alone here isn’t for the faint of heart. For my first surf session I chose camel rock, a mushy beach break/ point in the town of Trinidad, for its protection from the strong northwest wind which plagued my trip and for its easy access. As I pulled up in a Prius I felt a bit out of place. I suited up with a spring suit under a 3mm O’neill Hyper Freak wetsuit with a hood and no booties or gloves. The water was cold and numbed my hands and feet immediately. Once I made it out in the line up I felt an air bubble underneath me which sent me into a slight panic. Humboldt county has the highest amount of shark attacks in California- a fact that’s on everyone’s mind whether they admit it or not. After an hour I headed in; my extremities numb and soul satisfied by my first real cold water surfing experience in the Pacific Northwest.
After spending quality time with my family I drove back down to the redwoods state park. I got off at the avenue of the Giants exit past the small village of Redcrest and followed Mattole road until I reached Albee creek campground. It’s quiet and remote and has several gorgeous campgrounds surrounded by forests and meadows. Not to mention it’s close to several nice redwood groves and some significant sized record breakers.
At 363 feet and a circumference of 53.2 feet the giant tree was recognized as the largest sequoia sempervirens in 1991.
Getting off at the lower bull creek flats on the way to Albee camp I found a great swimming area. At the end of the parking lot I Followed the trail about .25-.5 miles around the fallen redwoods and took the small trail that goes to the left down towards the river.
Having surfed the day before I decided to bring my wetsuit with me to clean. The water was still fairly cold so I put it on and floated down the fast moving turquoise current, got out and walked up the river bank again and repeated this mad process until I needed a rest. Looking up at the tree canopy moving above me as I floated down, flipping around in the cool torrent all while embracing the pure joy I was getting from this childish and seemingly mad behavior I was dwelling in. Pure joy, simple peace, nobody around.
Camping solo underneath the redwoods was one of the highlights of this trip. With all the chaos and constant stimulation of the modern world hundreds of miles away I was again in a solitary retreat with nobody to talk to. Only the stillness of my mind’s retreating thoughts and the wildlife around me. I spent the evening hiking around the creeks and meadows near the campsite until it was time to build a fire and gaze off into its flames as the quiet world darkened around me.
On my way down to Napa I enjoyed the countryside of Mendocino and Sonoma counties. The whole way I wanted to stop at the wineries I was passing, even though none were open in the morning hours. The quaint country charm of highway 128/29 and it’s surrounding estates at the northern end of the county opens up into immense estates and a patchwork of vineyards throughout the whole valley.
Napa
The heart of wine production and snobbery in California is and always will be a pilgrimage for any wine lover. After all they have a wine train that takes you north-south through the valley and to several estates. The valley produces around 4% of California’s wine but over 20% of it’s value. Those are some hefty statistics for such a small area; the valley itself is barely 30 miles long. If it wasn’t for prohibition other parts of California might have taken the spotlight off Napa but in 1966 winemaker Robert Mondavi created the first winery in Napa which due to his quality product and cheap land word spread and the valley was transformed into the wine mecca it is today.
The terroir of Napa has developed its richness in minerals by millennia of eroding avulsions of the Napa river in between the eastern Vaca range and the Mayacama mountains in the west. This erosion saturated the valley with mineral rich deposits over time. Cool air and fog flowing into the valley from the San Pablo bay in the south mixes with the hot dry air entering from north. Generally the more cool climate vines like Bordeaux are grown in the southern regions and at higher altitudes while Napa’s bread and butter Cabernet enjoys the sweet spot in the middle.
As wine pilgrimages to Napa go mine was short lived. Another time in the future I plan on really getting to know the region. However brisk, I had a wonderful time, met up with some close friends, and ate like a champ thanks to my friends generosity and our mutual appetite for good food. Below are some of my favorite places and wines:
Zuzu and La Taberna
For Spanish cuisine these two sister establishments cannot be beat. Located just a few storefronts from each other on Main street Zuzu and La Taberna are a must for those who want to be transported to the Iberian peninsula while in Napa. Zuzu offers diners traditional Spanish cuisine and tapas as well as more creative dishes inspired by their chef’s hometown in Oaxaca, Mexico. La Taberna is more of a bar with tiny pintxos and tapas served with your drinks.
For brunch on my last day in Napa my friends invited the chef over to cook something special. After purchasing some meats and cheeses from Fatted Calf we prepared a wild morel mushroom scramble with local cheeses melted in truffle butter and washed it down with a bottle of Robert Sinsky Orgia pinot gris. There couldn’t have been a better send off to end my trip up north.
Brown Estate
Brown estate is known for its award winning Zinfandel and Cabernet sauvignon. Started in 1995 by the children of Basset Brown and Marclea Abrahams Brown who realized that their families praised zinfandel grapes which were popular amongst other winemakers would be perfect to make their own wine with. As it turned out they were right. Brown estate is now Napa valley’s first and only black owned estate and has become one of its most renowned and celebrated.
Robert Sinskey Vineyards
I enjoyed my first experience at Robert Sinskey Vineyards. The winemaker Jeff Virnig has been making insanely good wine here for almost 30 years. This second generation family owned winery is all about quality and heart as well as dedication to organic or as they call it, “beyond organic” farming which is really just a modern take on basic tried and true old world wine making with a permacultural and bio-regional twist.
When you visit the many vineyards you will find sheep and other natural wildlife grazing around in between the vines. This largely eliminates the need for modern machinery and fertilizers as the animals act like a tractor by churning and compacting the soil as well as consuming the plants, which in turn exit the animal as mineral rich fertilizer.
Their tasting room, located at 6320 Silverado Trail, Napa, is as relaxed and comfortable as it is beautiful and spacious. The large stone building has a nice back patio for enjoying views of the vineyards and the valley. The wine pourers are knowledgeable and friendly and all have a huge connection to the wine and the vineyard.
Oxbow Public Market
A great place for anything food and wine related. Located in the downtown Oxbow district near the river the market serves as a center for local cuisine and artisanal products. Its reminiscent of a European indoor food market and reminded me of some markets in Spain.
Matthiason Vermouth-
This gem of a fortified wine is made from a special crossbreed between Semillon and Gewurtztraminer grapes known as Flora. For the uninitiated this would be a great first vermouth. A New York Times article about the wine is included below in the links.
Links
Can’t wait to follow in your footsteps. Great article!