South America Travel

Inside the Bares Notables of Buenos Aires

Words and photos by Matt Dursum As modern cafes draw in crowds hoping to experience the next best thing, the classics still exist. By somehow avoiding the Instagram-craze that plagues cafes in Buenos Aires’ trendier neighborhoods, they remain hideaways for people who like to reflect on life uninterrupted. Aside from the tourist’s hotspots, Buenos Aires’ Bares Notables remain locally focused, affordable, and—unapologetically no-frills—shrines to Argentinian food and drinking culture.  From Humble Origins Bares Notables or…

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South America Travel

Neighborhood Profile: San Telmo, Buenos Aires

Words and Photos by Matt Dursum San Telmo radiates history. Its buildings and alleyways have witnessed some of Argentina’s most significant and, at times, unsavory historical events. A once working class neighborhood, it’s one of the birthplaces of Argentina’s national dance Tango. Today, the neighborhood juggles its gritty charm with a booming tourism industry and somehow keeps its soul intact. To get to know the neighborhood better, I take the bus to its busy outskirts…

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South America Travel

Roaming the Tigre Delta 

Words and Photos by Matt Dursum Like most of Buenos Aires, the Tigre Delta is changing. Over a century ago, the area was a playground for the rich. The former country club—Museo de Arte Tigre—once functioned as the social grounds for Buenos Aires’ elite and its famous rowing team. After the bloody 20th century dictatorship and the rise of seaside and international travel stripped this region of its prestige, it is finding a newfound resurgence…

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Food South America Travel

The Ultimate Day in Buenos Aires: Part 1 

Words and Photos by Matt Dursum If you had 24 hours in the 15th largest city in the world, what would you do? Today I’m setting off to discover if an ultimate day is even possible in Buenos Aires. For a city so massive, with hundreds of world-famous museums, restaurants, bookstores, and cafes, not to mention the worlds of Tango, Milonga, and Rock Nacional—all contained within 48 distinct neighborhoods or barrios; it’s a task for…

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Food South America Travel

Diving Into the World of Empanadas 

Photography by Samantha Demangate Come escape with me into one of the world’s best comfort foods: the empanada. Portable pockets of goodness, either baked or fried, empanadas are ubiquitous in the South American diet. Imagine Crispy folds of roasted dough encasing savory fillings of minced meats, seafood, olives, and spices. These beautiful little envelopes of flavor fuel people of all classes and backgrounds and can cause heated contention; almost to the level of football.  The…

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