Buenos Aires During the World Cup

Words by Matt Dursum

Photos by Samantha Demangate

Some life events pass by unnoticed, while others cling to our waking memories like starving lampreys. For those of us in Buenos Aires, Argentina during 2022’s FIFA World Cup, time bent out of shape, seemingly standing still for moments until the rushes of cathartic energy and emotion leaked into our brains and the psyche of the entire nation of Argentina. 

The Buildup

Soccer is Argentina’s game. Although the world cherishes it, its importance in Argentine society is undefinable. Not uncommon are the altars adorned with #10 Messi jerseys, Maradona posters, and blessings and hexes meant to influence the outcome of the game. 

As the tournament approaches, Argentines everywhere are apprehensive. If a South American championship wasn’t enough, everyday people’s confidence in their 2022 team’s potential barely exceeded a “we’ll see.” 

When the tournament approached, apprehensions turned into active preparation. Lionel Messi, Enzo Fernandez, Ángel di Maria, Alexis McAllister, Emi Martinez, and many other greats formed the team thought to be worthy of another championship. Not to mention coach Lionel Scaloni. To many fans, the team had too many captains at the helm and needed to unify, like Voltron under one head—the one and only Lionel Messi.

The Games

For the duration of the tournament, Buenos Aires’ bars, cafes, homes, and parks would serve as the battlegrounds. The city converted Intendente Seeber Park in the Palermo neighborhood into an alcohol-free viewing party, equipped with two giant screens to televise the event. 

Banners, flags, jerseys, horns, and several tons of blue and white face paint were sold in vast numbers. People were ready and the city braced for what could be the largest party in earth’s history. 

Saudi Arabia 

The 2022 season kicked off with a shocker against Saudi Arabia. A single penalty by Messi gave Argentina a boost of confidence. The hype and dreams of a nation were behind them, but they couldn’t keep an in-form Saudi Arabia at bay and after a few off-sides goals by Messi and L. Martinez were retracted, Saudi Arabia attacked. 

Players Salem Al-Dawsari and Saleh Al-Shehri sank crucial shots on the Argentine defense. The blue and white offense could barely push into Green Falcon territory by the time the game ended. Argentine fans returned to work, confused and disappointed but hopeful for a shot against Mexico. 

Mexico

As Argentine fans settled into bars and at home, they knew this was going to be a difficult match. Mexico was one of Latin America’s highest rated teams and were ready for a fight after their tie with Poland at their season opener. 

For the first half of the game, Mexico had Argentina by the neck. Every shot against Emi Martinez seemed destined to sink inside the net but as always, the Argentine keeper was able to hold them off. 

In the second half, Lionel Messi and Enzo Fernández brought the score to 2 – 0. Mexico couldn’t hold off the building momentum of a milanesa fueled Messi & Co. Once the ref blew the whistle, everyone glued to the TV back in Buenos Aires let out a collective sigh. 

Poland

Dawning the purple away jerseys, meant to represent gender equality, the Argentine team came up against an in-form Poland. The Northern European team came out strong, vying for control right away and giving little to Argentina. 

Then came the second half. Alexis Mac Allister sank one in and then Julian Alvarez followed it up. Argentina’s defense came in heavy too and prevented all chances for a Polish comeback. With this defeat, Argentina was going to the final 16. 

Australia 

This was the big one for Lionel Messi. His 1,000th match was a symbolic step in his journey towards glory. 

Crowds gathered in huge numbers in parks, homes and restaurants. Nerves and emotions were high and the tension was measurable. 

The game moved along smoothly for Argentina. An opener for Messi and then a follow up by Julian Alvarez in the second half. Each goal was met by a roar at home. By now, people were getting heated, many finally letting their emotions and energy out in full expression for their national team. 

A late goal by Australia was not enough to halt Argentina’s momentum. Like a sign of what’s to come, the city of Buenos Aires erupted. The Socceroos left the tournament and Argentina was into the quarterfinals. 

The Evil Dutch 

On December 9th, crowds rushed into Intendente Seeber Park. Fueled with expectations and hope, Argentine fans were ready to celebrate or grieve.

As the game started, Argentine fans held their breath. In the first half, their team controlled the game. After a flawless pass from Messi, Nahuel Molina scored for Argentina. The crowd at Intendente Seeber Park erupted. 

Next, a penalty against the Netherlands sent Lionel Messi to take a penalty. Within seconds, the ball soared past Dutch goalkeeper Andries Noppert. In celebration, Messi held his hands to his ears towards Dutch coach Louis van Gaal. 

It was at this moment when the already tense game became tenser. In the 83rd minute, the Dutch sank a goal and then, a few minutes later, another. Argentine fans became silent and fixated on the screens. 

Normal time ended shortly after Argentine player Leandro Paredes lost his temper and sent the ball into the Orange dugout. The Dutch players stormed the field, chestbutting Paredes on the ground. 

As the game went into overtime, a mess of yellow-cards and heated words made this one of the most controversial games in World Cup history. Back at home, fans held their breaths. As overtime advanced scoreless, everyone had their faces in their hands. Drinks remained untouched. 

After the second half of overtime, the game went to penalties. Argentina was able to capitalize and overcome the Dutch team. In the end, it was apparent that the Netherlands had tried to rattle Argentina with their words and tactics on the field. Argentina responded with the ferocity of champions. 

Croatia

After all the drama with the Netherlands, Argentina took on an in-form Croatia, led by Luka Modrić. The game went spectacularly well for Argentina. After three goals and only three yellow cards—as compared with the record-breaking 18 during the match with the Netherlands—Argentina won. 

The Final

Sunday, December 18th. Argentina and France started the morning with jittery nerves. The world was watching. In Buenos Aires, everyone huddled around the TVs. Intendente Seeber Park was filled to capacity. 

The final kicked off with a bang. The first half saw Lionel Messi sink a penalty. After he scored, the entire city shouted in unison. People banged pots outside of their windows, taxis laid on their horns, driving through the deserted streets. 

Then, another goal by Ángel di Maria. His now infamous heartfelt hand gesture in celebration made fans back home break down crying. Then, silence. 

At the 80’ mark, Kylian Mbappé scored a penalty. Then, the French star player sinks a goal through the right side of the goal. Argentina stands still.   

With the game now in a tense overtime battle, Argentine fans are sitting on the edge of their seats. At 108’ Lionel Messi scores. Screams once again pierce the city.

Then, at the 118’ mark, Mbappé scored again. His hat trick sent Buenos Aires into a nervous apprehension. The game was now going to penalties. 

The Celebration of a lifetime 

The moments in between the start of the shootout and after remain a blur. Argentina took the final emblematically, with Messi finally hoisting his long awaited trophy and securing his legacy as the greatest footballer of all time. 

In Buenos Aires, there was no pause. Immediately, people hit the streets. Masses of reveling people dawning blue and white jerseys and holding bottles of espumante and coke bottles filled with Fernet march down Buenos Aires’ streets and avenues. 

Like crazed lemmings, we all marched shoulder to shoulder, laughing and crying. Cheers to “vamos Argentina!” and the iconic, “Abuela, la la la la la,” ring through the streets. Elderly hang from their balconies waving the Argentine flag and saluting the crowds below. 

We marched down Avenida Santa Fe, towards the iconic Obelisco at the center of the city. Crowds of thousands, then tens of thousands, and hundreds of thousands poured in every minute, from every corner of the city. People climbed flag poles and street lights. Hedges and the roofs of bus depots were now filled with people high on victory and Fernet. 

Before the thickness of the crowds stopped us in our tracks, a mile from the Obelisco, an elderly woman stood, surrounded by a crowd. They chanted “Abuela! La la la la la. Abuela! La la la la la.” She soaked up the attention. Holding in her arms and waving proudly a blue and white towel saying “Campeones 1978,” she blew kisses to all of us and cried and laughed with abandon. Although one of the largest parties in history was going on around us, this moment was really all that mattered. 

Fernet hangovers and a rapidly inflating currency aside, Argentines secured two things: a perfect championship and the biggest party the world has ever seen. 

VAMOS ARGENTINA!!