South America Travel

The Vulnerable Charm of Puerto Iguazu 

Words and Photos by Matt Dursum

In Argentina’s Misiones Province lies the magnetizing Iguazu Falls, one of the world’s great natural landmarks. Situated within a vast 660 square miles of protected Atlantic Forest habitat, the falls are a remarkable center for biodiversity. The home base for visitors to the Argentine side of the falls is the small town of Puerto Iguazu. Often overshadowed by its UNESCO recognized neighbor, this small community contains a story of its own. 

Indegenous Heritage 

It’s early October in Puerto Iguazu. The city is full of people, not only for the falls, but for the annual celebration of indegenous people’s art, music, and culture. The festival known as Festival de Arte Sonora Indígina showcases a collection of local Guarani and other indigenous Argentine artists and musicians. 

Inside are booths of local weevers, artisans, and farmers. People congregate, many from the capital of Buenos Aires and nearby Brazil. Tapioca cakes known as mbejú are sold along with cooked yerba mate (mate cocido) inside and in the Cafe Lilium across the street. 

Inside the large community hall families gather on the floor and chairs. Quiet and still as an empty desert night, listening intently to the powerful and emotional soundscape coming from the stage. Artists like Mariana Carrizo come close to bringing the audience to tears. 

A Crossroads in History

There’s no doubt that this region has suffered a lot. In the 17th century, Spain sent the Jesuits, an order of Catholic missionaries, to venture into the frontiers of the Americas to convert the people living there and colonize. 

The Guarani people lived in the region of modern Paraguay, northern Argentina, and southwestern Brazil. As the Spaniards encroached on their land they were driven out, forced into missions, enslaved, or murdered. 

Towards the end of the 18th century, the Jesuit missions remained some of the last protected Guarani settlements and became safe-havens for the people. That was until the Spanish military, fearful of the growing power and influence the Jesuits were having in the region, forcibly disbanded them. Left to abandon, the missions could no longer stand between the aggressive colonization of the Spanish military. 

The following period became rife with revolutions and war. After Argentina, Paraguay, and Brazil fought for their independence from Europe, their modern borders were drawn out through conquest and bloody conflicts. 

The War of the Triple Alliance was one of the bloodiest of these conflicts. In this war, Paraguay lost roughly 60% of its male population and Brazil, Argentina, and Uruguay walked away with broadened territory. 

After the exploitation of the natural resources of the region—namely the Iguazu Falls, and the construction of the Itaipu Dam, the largest hydroelectric dam in the world, Misiones Province began to develop. 

Quiet Streets and Small Shops

Throughout the year, international tourists fill the hotels and steak houses. Tourist numbers jump to over a million every year. Puerto Iguazu has a resident population of around 80,000 which has grown significantly over the last decade. Inside the lonely avenues are shops dedicated to selling Iguazu Falls merchandise. When asked about the impacts of the pandemic, people let out an overwhelmed sigh. 

Currently, business is good. The Argentine economy, not so much. Yet, people remain committed to their community. Businesses like the charming Chez Le Choripan, serving arguably the best choripan sandwiches in Argentina, and the nearby Cafe La Posta provide excellent small-town service. The town is quiet, relatively safe, and full of laid-back character. 

A world away from the Disneyland-esque landmark on the Brazilian side, the Tres Fronteras (Triple Border) landmark of Puerto Iguazu is small and quirky. It overlooks the intersection of the Iguazu and Paraná rivers, at the confluence of Brazil, Paraguay, and Argentina. 

Just down the hill are the docks. For years, this small port has provided safe docking for the riverboats and river cruises that navigate the mighty rivers. The Argentine Navy also operates here. River navies, especially Paraguay’s, protect their borders from piracy and the arguably minuscule possibility of an invading neighbor. 

The Giants of Iguazu Falls

Regardless of the region’s rich biodiversity and culture, people come here for one thing only, the falls. Walking in view of the Iguazu Falls is like brushing shoulders with Alcyoneus and Porphyrion in battle. The gigantic series of waterfalls catapult upwards of 12,000 cubic meters of water per second over basaltic ledges 80 meters below. 

To put this into perspective, the 275 cascades are two times the height and three times the width of Niagara Falls. The monster among them is called the Devil’s Throat. During the wetter months a neverending cloud of mist encapsulates the waterfall’s base. 

From the park entrance there are several well-manicured trails which criss-cross through dense jungle. Locals get to explore the trail system for free. For foreign and domestic tourists there is a small fee. 

Once inside you can set off on the trails. Migrating birds, reptiles, and mammals like the South American coati and howler monkey use the tree limbs and trails next to you. It’s an open and protected habitat with diverse flora and fauna everywhere. 

Tourism Changes Things

Proximity to the falls has forever altered the town of Puerto Iguazu. They’re simply magical. Unfortunately, like most remote, beautiful, and vulnerable places, tourism has left its mark, or rather scars on the region. 

Expensive hotels have opened close to the falls and taken business from downtown. Locals, especially indigenous communities are being displaced, led by surging costs and development. Infrastructure, especially to clean water and education, remains poor for the Guarani people living in the region. 

Things, however contentious, seem to be changing. Many hotels have joined the Rainforest Alliance and local policies are starting to give more to the indigenous communities, including better land rights. Inside the park, recycling stations are numerous and educational outreach programs are frequented by locals, schools, and tourists. 

The future for most of the world’s most beautiful and visited areas remains in question. It seems, at least on the surface, that this corner of Argentina is on the right course and local people and indigenous communities are gaining more control over local policies and land use. Puerto Iguazu will inevitably continue to draw in tourists. With them, comes the good, the bad, and everything in between.