Photography by Samantha Demangate
When you think of lavishness and wealth, Uruguay hardly comes to mind. It’s a small, unpretentious, and nature oriented country where being flashy is far from respected by society. Yet, even though it’s one of the most humble places on the continent, the city of Punta del Este has become South America’s riviera. Every year, millions of people pour onto its sandy beaches and into its hotels and casinos, hoping to experience a taste of luxury. In winter, not so much as a trickle of visitors enter the city. Even in a place like this, Uruguay’s authenticity and charm shines, made even more apparent in the blustery offseason.
Why were we here? A thought a few locals must have uttered to themselves at least once or twice. We were rain-soaked; tired from hauling over 60 pounds of camera gear, backpacks and a surfboard; and looking irritable from the long bus ride. In short, my girlfriend and I love the offseason. It’s more intimate. Less crowded. And perfect for photographers. The other half of the story is the off-season in Uruguay—winter in South America—is surf-season. And after three months in Buenos Aires, I would brave any amount of rain and cold to get a few backhand snaps and forehand cracks.
An Unlikely City
Punta del Este is a small city with 9000 permanent residents built on a long and narrow peninsula at the border of the Rio de la Plata and South Atlantic. During the summer months, from November to February, the population skyrockets into an all-night beach party metropolis of wine-fueled all-night beach parties and high end steakhouses.
The peninsula of Punta del Este and the surrounding Maldonado Department were, for centuries, sparsely populated. In the 16th century, the early Spanish sailors called this Cabo de Santa Maria or Cape Saint Mary. It wasn’t until the early 19th century when the wealthy settler Francisco Aguilar purchased vast amounts of land on the peninsula, established a tile factory and farmlands, and developed residential zoning until the government officially recognized the community. Soon Aguilar became Mayor and with his new duties he had a school, church, and post office built on the narrow piece of land.
Aguilar, who then called the peninsula Villa Ituzaingó, sold much of the land to a group of wealthy businessmen who developed a large meat salting house, planted the peninsula with towering pines and palms, and built roads over the shifting sand dunes that covered the tiny settlement after every wind storm. Eventually, families from Argentina and Uruguay’s capital began flocking to the small town to use it as a summer retreat. From here, the town and its surroundings grew into one of South America’s most popular resorts.
The Heart of Uruguay’s Surf Culture
“Are there sharks here?” I ask a local named Pedro as we get swept out to sea during a big day. The reef at Los Dedos is tricky to position yourself in, especially during the big swell and thick fog. “No white sharks, but we do have plenty of orcas!” Just as Pedro utters that, a large sea lion poked its head up next to me, eying a penguin that was playfully swimming around us.
Surfing has for decades forged a part in Uruguayan culture. The coastline is full of world-class surf breaks. The problem is with the lack of consistency. What Uruguay lacks in dependable swell, it makes up for in uncrowded and diverse set ups. Fortunately for surfers, the off season is when the south Atlantic kicks into gear.
Along Punta del Este’s peninsula and sleepy northern coast is an array of reefs and beaches. The most popular spots are La Barra, a river mouth point, and Los Dedos, a beach/ reef break named after the Los Dedos de Punta del Este monument. Other great spots, including El Emir and a series of reefs lined down the eastern side of the peninsula, fire when winter low pressure systems form thousands of miles off the coast of Uruguay. For surfers who can brave the cold water like Pedro and me, the off-season is the most rewarding time of the year.
Uruguay’s Up and Coming Wine Country
Punta Del Este lies in the department of Maldonado. This land of rolling pastures and humble farm homes produces some of Uruguay’s most prized wine. Because of Punta del Este’s proximity to Maldonado’s vineyards, South America’s rich and powerful elite have driven the wine region’s growth.
Besides having close consumer demand and well-funded wine-making enterprises, Maldonado’s terroir sets its wine apart from other regions in Uruguay. Steep, rocky hillsides full of minerals and a proximity to the moderating effects of cool ocean breezes make Maldonado’s wines racy and flavor driven.
Winemakers here have planted a wide variety of grapes that flourish, including Uruguay’s flagship grape tannat. Powerful, tart, and tannic, tannat does well in the cooler climate of Maldonado. Tannat came to Uruguay via immigrants from the grape’s homeland of Northern Spain’s Basque region. The grape has since become the country’s signature variety, capable of reflecting the country’s terroir and holding up to the rich smoky meats that characterize Uruguay’s cuisine.
A Land of Art and Museums
Punta Del Este’s position as a playground for the rich and powerful has attracted government and private investment for the arts. Just outside of town is the MACA—Museo de Arte Contemporáneo Atchugarry. This large museum houses local and international art both inside its ship-like main hall and outside. The collections, even though they are expertly curated and full of priceless artwork, remain free to the public.
Food Highlights in the Off-Season
Being the off-season, restaurants mainly cater to locals, and finding a seat next to them is an easy way to get to know the town’s culture. Local stomping grounds like El Milagro serve Uruguayan favorites like Chivito. El Milagro is the type of place where you can expect groups of people sitting down to watch a football match, drinking wine and yerba mate, and eating together.
For busy people needing a quick bite, empanadas are a South American specialty and almost every country on the continent lays claim to having the best. Arguably, the best empanadas in Punta del Este belong to Bravas Empanadas. A small empanada bakery that pumps out dozens of classic varieties, expertly crafted and baked to perfection.
Our mornings in Punta del Este start with a walk to the harbor market. Fresh fish is gutted and cleaned. After every fish, the workers throw the scraps over the side for the seagulls and sea lions who attract many spectators. Here we load up on Corvina and shellfish to take home to make ceviche and enjoy the winter sunlight sparkling on the still harbor waterway.
In the afternoons when the surf dies down, we go to another business that’s special in the off-season, Adrianuzca’s Cat Café. This women-owned cafe serves incredible coffee drinks and pastries. What’s more is that the cafe functions as a rehabilitation and adoption center for rescued cats. We spend over an hour inside, playing with our favorite felines and watching them wrestle around the tables. We are sometimes the only customers and these adorable animals crowd around us for some good loving.
Off-Season Charm
Something special happens to tourist towns in the off season. You get to experience the place like it was any other community: quiet, peaceful, and slow paced. Once spring comes to South America and the air warms up, Punta del Este will once again return to being a crowded playground full of suntans and BBQs.
During a break in the weather, we head over to the historic center of town. A few local couples gather on the Plaza del Faro open space. The town’s iconic lighthouse stands over us. Flocks of monk parakeets fly by us carrying sticks to their nest in a Phoenix Palm. They are the only species of parrot that builds their nest using sticks. We end our evening walking along the reef at the statue of the Imágen de Nuestra Señora de la Candelaria. Here we join people sitting in solitude, staring out at sea in deep contemplation, sipping our yerba mate and just living in the moment.
