Photography by Samantha Demangate
“You have to walk down Avenida Santa Fe while you’re here,” says our local friend. We pester her for her opinions about Buenos Aires’s must-do and must-experience things. The avenida, she tells us, is an avenue of fashion and architecture. This imaginary boundary between the unofficial Barrio Norte and the city center is, for many local Porteños, a walk through the past, present, and future of the city.
One aspect of Avenida Santa Fe is its place in the hearts of shoppers and fashionistas everywhere. Shoes, clothes, women’s clothes, leather goods, books, furniture, plants, and plenty of cortados and Americanos are bought, sold, and traded here. One thing’s for certain: nothing beats a walking tour. And if we were going to choose anywhere to do this as newbie Porteños, it had to be here.
Barrio Palermo
Taking our friend’s advice, we begin our walk on the western end of the avenue, from the Subte station Metro Carranza, in the neighborhood of Palermo. This is, for most people, considered the avenue’s terminus. For us, it’s the beginning of our long trek. From here, the avenue cuts southeast through the neighborhoods of Palermo and Recoleta before stretching east into the downtown neighborhood of Retiro.
We pass Plaza Falucho, where the avenue widens. On the north side of the avenue is the Patrician Regiment of the Argentinian army. Across from the large army base is the thin strip of greenspace, Madre Teresa de Calcuta park. This is one of the best places to rent bikes in the city. There are also frequent art installations underneath the Puente Pacifico railway bridge that stretches overhead.
In 1774, when the city was just a small colonial port, the regional government laid out Avenida Santa Fe as the northern boundary of early colonial Buenos Aires. At the time, the newly built street was called San Gregorio. After subsequent name changes and alterations to its width, it finally gained its official name of Avenida Santa Fe in 1822 by Argentina’s first president, Bernardino Rivadavia.
As we pass Plaza Italia, we enter the heart of the Palermo neighborhood. The magnificent Botanical Garden and the city’s Eco Park are here. Visitors come here daily to get away from the crowds and enjoy Palermo’s green spaces. The Eco Park was once the city’s zoo but today takes in rescued animals and native species and lets them roam freely amongst its guests. At the Botanic Garden, South American plants and trees cover the well-kept grounds. Locals treasure these two must-see parks.
Barrio Recoleta
As we get to the cross street of Avenida Colonel Díaz, we enter the neighborhood of Recoleta. Known for being the city’s wealthiest district, it also has some of its finest architecture. From here, we can’t help but look upwards at the impressive building facades and roofs stretched along the avenue. Elaborate and elegant, these buildings pop out like scenes from a storybook. As we continue, the story of the city’s grand architecture comes to life around us.
In the late 19th century, the avenue was included in a grand architectural reinvention. Then, mayor Torcuato de Alvear hired French and other European architects to design and build boulevards. Within these streets, builders constructed majestic European high-rises with facades and interiors that rivaled Europe’s. This became Buenos Aires’s building boom. A time when massive spending turned this sleepy port town into one of the world’s most architecturally rich cities. During this period, from roughly 1880 to 1920, Argentina was one of the wealthiest nations on earth, thanks to its healthy agrarian economy. Grain and beef exports rose, and the country could capitalize on trade with war-ravaged Europe.
With almost unlimited capital and vision, urban planners constructed buildings that honored Europe’s grandest architecture. During the building boom, waves of Italian and Spanish immigrants settled in Buenos Aires. European architects designed much of the city’s facades to reflect this. The main building styles include beaux arts, eclecticism, art déco, art nouveau, neoclassical, and other 20th century styles.
Famous Architecture and Sights
Architecture fanatics and locals alike consider Recoleta’s buildings some of the most impressive in the city. One standout is Edificio Roccatagliata, an early 20th century Italian art nouveau and art déco inspired masterpiece. The great Italian architect Mario Palanti built this tower, and it has since become emblematic of the neighborhood.
It’s not just architecture that stands out on Avenida Santa Fe. The city’s most famous bookstore, El Ateneo Grand Splendid, may not be much to look at from the outside, but inside it’s a sight to behold. Thousands of books line its shelves, all inside an early 20th century theater. What’s more are the other small bookstores throughout the avenue. Readers can enjoy perusing the streets for used and new bookstores that carry a vast array of titles.
Barrio Retiro
At the corner of Uruguay street, Recoleta turns into the downtown neighborhood of Retiro. Within a few blocks from Avenida Santa Fe are some of the city’s most famous cafes, theaters, and museums.
As we cross Avenida 9 de Julio, we enter the last stretch of Avenida Santa Fe. The avenue ends at Plaza General San Martin, one of Buenos Aires’s most iconic green spaces and home to the Falklands War Monument and the famous Torre Monumental clock tower given to Argentina by the British.
We walk into the park and sit down on the grass. We walked six kilometers along one of Buenos Aires’s most famous avenues. Tired and hungry, we trudge back to one of our favorite eateries in the city, El Cuartito, just a few blocks from Avenida Santa Fe.
This is great! I feel as if I’m actually there. Beautifully captured in writing and photography.