Photography by Samantha Demangate
A still haze lingers over the Andes Mountains. It’s 90° F and there’s little humidity. Blaring reggaetón hooks fade away as cars race by the crowded avenues. The comforting squeaks of Burrowing Parrots harmonize with the hammering of furniture makers. Staggering out of ice cream shops on their way to the bar, young couples pass by busking musicians and street artists while busy garzónes balance their trays through hungry patrons. This is a typical summer weekend in Santiago, Chile’s romantic Barrio Italia.
As Santiago’s neighborhoods go, Barrio Italia is unique. One-story buildings with pastel facades line the quiet, tree-lined streets. On weekdays, it feels like a sleepy residential enclave amid Santiago’s ubiquitous ten-story housing projects and looming office towers. On the weekends, it becomes one of the city’s hippest spots to be, attracting performers, artists, and musicians from all over the city.
The Neighborhood’s Origin
Barrio Italia started as a small cluster of homes and businesses between the districts of Ñuñoa and Providencia. In the early 20th century, waves of Italian immigrants settled in. The most famous was the Girardi family, who started their popular hat factory. Girardi hats became synonymous with Chilean style and soon the company moved their production elsewhere. After the factory moved, the neighborhood became the home of furniture makers and artisans looking for cheaper real estate close to the city center.
The Real Estate market in Barrio Italia would eventually follow the wave of youth-oriented artisanal shopping districts like Williamsburg and Silver Lake. In the last decade, developers converted former car garages and abandoned furniture factories into small boutiques.
Most of the furniture makers and antique dealers still in business are on Caupolicán street. Here, you can still purchase a refurbished turn-of-the-century Italian dining room chair or an antique butterfly table.
Modern Barrio Italia
Tucked within the small courtyards and tree lined pavilions are several multilevel shopping centers, restaurants, and an array of charming mom-and-pop boutiques and eateries that sell anything from vintage clothes to mate cups. On the weekends, pop-up markets open up on the sidewalks and inside bars. People from all over the city arrive in droves to eat, drink, shop, and enjoy themselves.
Part of people’s attraction to the neighborhood lies in its adherence to its artisanal past. Craftspeople in small shops and workspaces make and sell everything from furniture to guitars and quirky specialty items, like scented candles and clocks. Art galleries and music stores compete with coffee roasters and ice cream parlors for customers. In reality, competition is friendly, as everyone is plugging each other’s business to potential customers.
When nighttime rolls around, the neighborhood feels like a block party hosted by the area’s businesses. Jazz and rock musicians jostle with opera singers and rappers to perform for the crowds gathered on the closed-to-vehicular-traffic on Italia Avenue. Comedy clubs, tango bars, and cervecerias (craft breweries) stay open late into the night.
The Changing Face of the Neighborhood
Like many up-and-coming hipster neighborhoods, Barrio Italia’s small businesses and residents are facing the typical challenges of rising property values and overcrowding. The once sleepy cross streets are now home to some of the most popular new businesses in the city. It still, however, has the aura of an undiscovered nook.
Another change is from immigration. The neighborhood and its surrounding area is becoming home to many immigrants from other South American countries like Venezuela and Peru. Other immigrants from Haiti, China, and Europe are also making their impact on Barrio Italia. This is giving the neighborhood an increasingly multinational feel.
No matter how much the local demographics change, people always enjoy sampling completos, the Chilean fast food staple, from outside their homes. Chileans adorn these walloping hotdogs with toppings like cheese, avocado, mayo, and fried onions. Now, many stands offer sauces like guasaca and spicy salsa aji and other toppings that reflect the changing palettes of the locals.
Barrio Italia is evolving. All neighborhoods develop their own personality. Individuals move in, bringing their cultures and individual quirks. They affect change. These slight changes influence other newcomers and the neighborhood itself develops its own culture and voice. One thing is clear to anyone visiting this neighborhood for the first time. It is special.
Favorite Places
La Cava Del Barrio
This small and well catered wine shop has the best wine from all of Chile’s diverse wine regions. They feature small production wines from the country’s most traditional and innovative winemakers. This shop is perfect for wine lovers who want an accessible and friendly wine experience.
La Sopería
Who doesn’t love soup? Other than the few reviewers on Google who faulted this place for only selling soup when their name is literally the soup bowl. La Sopería has an enormous selection of international, experimental, and Chilean soups that are both satisfying and affordable.
El Gusto Peruano
This place serves refreshing Ceviche and Peruvian staples. El Gusto Peruano is one of the neighborhood’s staples for great food.
Autentiko French Takos
Born in France in the early 2000s, French tacos have become a French street food phenomenon. Autentiko French Takos—yes, they spell it like that—make them incredibly well. These savory bites comprise marinated meat and cheese wrapped in a flour tortilla and grilled. Get there early because they are one of the most popular restaurants in the neighborhood.
Pepperland Bar
This small brewpub serves local craft beer and delicious vegan food. 90’s rock videos play in the background. The inside decorations celebrate the haydays of grunge.
El Mundo de Dalí Cat Cafe
Who doesn’t love enjoying excellent coffee and food while surrounded by cats? Unless you’re allergic or someone soulless, El Mundo de Dalí Cat Cafe is a truly fantastic experience.
#UkeBkn ~ Expertos en Ukeleles
This is one of the best musical instrument stores in the city. They specialize in ukuleles and sell other stringed instruments as well.
For more photography by Samantha Demangate, visit her website at samitographi.com