Photography by Samantha Demangate
Temperate rainforests, endless coasts, and bottomless seafood? Sounds intriguing. Witchy tales and maritime superstitions? Ok, getting better. Penguins frolicking in untouched, perfect surf? Count me in!
The enchanting Chiloe Islands lies in the Patagonian Lake District, at about 41°S to 43°S in latitude, on Southern Chile’s rain soaked coastline. Chiloé is famous for its nature, rich traditions, and ancient folklore. On top of that, its Palafitos—colorful wooden buildings built on stilts over the water, are breathtakingly beautiful symbols of the Island’s culture. The indigenous Cunco people have also preserved much of their heritage, which has influenced every aspect of life on the island. This makes Chiloé such a rich destination to explore.
The Crossing
We set off from Puerto Montt early in the morning on March 7. The patchy rain opened up as we arrived at the ferry port of Pargua. With no pause we drove onto the well-maintained ferry, alongside cargo trucks bringing empty live transport bins for corvina and salmon. Chiloe’s fisheries industry is one of the most well-regarded in the world. The Humboldt current circulates the cold nutrient dense sea off the island’s coast, making this habitat thrive.
Crossing the narrow channel, the other passengers crowded along the ship’s side. “Pengüino! Mira!” yelled a few kids atop their parents’ shoulders. Below us, on the glassy sea surface, wild penguins, seals, and otters frolicked. Coming from California, seeing big meaty animals, this calm is not normal. Supposedly, Great White sharks rarely make appearances here and according to every angler we met, nobody has ever seen them. Orcas, however, are plentiful.
After a 30 minute crossing, we made it to the island. Immediately, the sweet mixture of wood smoke and sea spray and clean air filled our lungs. We slowly drove through the immaculate countryside. Rural farms and patchy forests covered the rolling landscape. It was one of the most beautiful places we’ve ever seen.
Local Superstitions
The island’s rich and often terrifying folklore is omnipresent. Tails of Mermaid-like creatures and hideous witches, bulls with a unicorn horn and deformed mutants who haunt the forests have kept children afraid for centuries. The most famous superstition is that of the wizards (brujos). They are said to terrorize the islanders by possessing people, stealing their dead, and slaughtering their livestock. The wizards and the other tales developed from a mixture of indigenous beliefs mixed with Iberian folklore. Today, many Chiloéns adhere to them, or at least in front of tourists and children.
Exploring Castro and the Palafitos
In the afternoon, we made it to Castro, the island’s largest city. With a population of just under 40,000, Castro is Chile’s third oldest municipality. We timed our visit with the coming of Autumn. Because of the pandemic and the end of peak season, we scored an affordable Airbnb in the heart of the famous palafitos.
“The house is creaking with the tide,” said my girlfriend as we set up our quarters. Our windows overlooked the palafitos, the Gamboa river, and its estuary. With the receding tide, people flooded the exposed sediment in front of us, searching for clams. The sea provides everything in Chiloe. On our first day, our mission was to discover the historic churches and five into the history of the island. Unfortunately, our vehicle had several maintenance issues.
The following morning, we took our car to the mechanic. A kind man who spoke with such a thick Chiloén accent, I could barely understand anything. The man inspected the car and before I could walk to catch a collective bus, offered to bring me back into town. We sat in his pickup for the 20 minute journey, talking about the island and his family. His daughter, he proudly said, spoke perfect English and is attending University in Valdivia. “What do you love most about Chiloe?” I asked. “Is this your first time here?” he said. “Yes, we already love it!” I exclaimed. “When I drop you off, I’ll give you a list of places you have to see. I hope you end up loving the island as much as I do.”
Getting to Know Castro
Without a car for two days and over a dozen hidden spots to check out, we spent our day in the city and our neighborhood. Castro is full of quirky shops and taverns where people congregate after working the sea. Its parks contain towering trees, food vendors, and teenagers skateboarding and doing hip-hop battles. The city is full of make-out-spots with endless views of the distant Andes. Downtown Castro also houses the Church of San Francisco, one of the 16 churches dedicated as UNESCO Heritage Sites.
In the evening, we set out to experience a Curanto dinner at one of the city’s best restaurants, the family-run Palafito Sabores De Mi Tierra. The restaurant sits atop an old palafito that resembles the cabin of an 18th century flagship. Inside we ordered Curanto, a Patagonian comfort food comprising shellfish, ham, mulcao (potato pancake), and potatoes steamed in an underground pit. For an hour, we attempted to finish this unlimited mountain of seafood while overlooking the fishing boats and gulls in the bay. The owners were friendly, and the meal was surprisingly inexpensive, given the quality and portion size—I’m talking an unlimited mountain of excellence here!
On Chiloe, fishing is ingrained into daily life. Every income bracket has access to the world’s best seafood. The Curanto is the best representation of this. Curanto can be translated as stones in the ground and is a method of cooking that’s over six thousand years old. Potatoes— hundreds of varieties of which are native to Chiloe, shellfish, sausages, and occasionally whole fish, are steamed in a deep pit. The process is simple. First, the cooks make a fire in an earth oven. Rocks are added and left to gain heat. Then the ingredients are placed on the rocks. Finally, local broadleaves known as nalca, are placed on top of the food along with sand and wet pieces of wood. The hot stones and wood smoke cook the ingredients, causing their natural waters and oils to escape and coating everything in flavorful juices. When it’s all done, it’s an ancient masterpiece in home-cooking.
The Churches of Chiloé and the Mighty Pacific
Once we got our car back, we checked out more of Chiloé’s famous churches. Spanish Jesuits and the indigenous community built them in the 18th and 19th centuries out of local timber. These unique churches combine indigenous and Spanish architectural styles. Just outside of Castro, we visited the Church of Nercón, the Church of Vilupulli, and the Church of Chonchi. The rest stand in small villages in the surrounding islands. The churches have weathered facades that reflect the hardships the island has faced—wars, earthquakes, and fierce storms.
After seeing the churches, we headed to the Pacific. Farmland turned to dense temperate rainforest as we hit Lago Huillinco, the island’s largest lake. Here, tiny villages and lakeside vistas break through the dense plantlife. Most of Chiloe is forest. The densest old growth starts here and continues for 80 kilometers south.
When we arrived in the tiny town of Cucao, the ocean was violent. I brought my surfboard, hoping to get in the water at some point, yet it was not happening here. The waves were unruly, like Ocean Beach, San Francisco during a large storm. The onshore breeze felt soft on our faces. We drove down the road, to a small restaurant called restaurant El Arrayán. Here they serve delicious fish and seafood along with some of the best jugos (fresh juice) I had in Chile. I ordered their raspberry juice, which comprised a large glass full of freshly squeezed raspberries soaking in their soft pulp. It was like drinking homemade jam.
Ancud y las Pingüineras de Puñihuil
Castro was difficult to leave. Yet, regardless of our affinities, there were other important things beckoning us—penguins. We first drove north to our next accommodation, in the small village of Huelden. Here, tucked away in the forest, was our cottage for three days. Without Wi-Fi, TV, or any modern trappings, we would soak up books and quiet bonfires every night. Throughout the day, fishermen displayed their fresh catch from the back of a truck. Corvina, squid, and an almost infinite variety of fish were sold by the kilo. A 4 kilogram (8.8pds) Corvina cost us five dollars US. We cooked it over a wood fire and listened to dolphins while staring up at the stars.
The following day was cloudless. We drove past the town of Ancud, famous for its forts that stand as the last remnants of the Spanish crown in Chile. After windy hairpin turns and scenery so indescribably beautiful, it almost made us cry. Soon, we made it to the village of Puñahil. Here, every year through November until early March, Megellanic and Humboldt penguins raise their young.
To get to the penguins, we drove along the beach and parked in front of a business that brings people out to see them by boat. We paid the small fee, walked out onto the sand, and stepped onto a small metal boarding platform that brought us out to the boat. The small crew of locals drove us out to the offshore islands to see the birds. The families of penguins were clustered in nests, taking turns to feed. Other seabirds danced in the precarious rocks as huge swells surged over the giant bull kelp. Chiloé gets its name from the native Mapuche term for “place of the seabirds.” Our drivers hovered the boat within meters of the battered rocks as the birds looked on.
El Caleuche
Ancud’s waters often produce sightings of the Caleuche. According to this tale, a ghost ship appears when thick fog rolls in. Its crew of wizards sing and dance as they work the deck. Mysteriously, the ship is said to sail seamlessly above and below the sea surface, its sails tarnished and gray. Just as soon as it appears, it’s lost in the fog, leaving echoes of chains and music for the witnesses to hear.
Surf and Curanto
We had poor luck finding surf on Chiloe. On the good days, we had a broken car. When we had a car, the conditions were flat or violently on-shore. However, we located a corner of Ancud that allowed for a few small rides and scoped out a hidden gem that made me want to inevitably return.
Tucked in the northern corner of the island is Playa Chaomon. Here, the secluded beach was oriented away from the relentless wind and offered a few clean knee high waves. Nearby, the occasionally world-class beach break of Mar Brava was blown out and jumbled. When it’s on, locals say it can deliver surf that resembles Hosseger.
The gem of Chiloé surfing lies close to here. A world-class reef break that detonates over shallow reefs and peels for 50m plus before warping into a cylindrical barrel and spilling its guts on the lucky person inside it. To scope it out, we made the steep climb down the cliff to its shores. A narrow rope connects trees half exposed to the elements. The muddy trail sometimes converts into a muddy cliff and for several moments, the rope is all you have between you and certain injury. Once we reached the bottom, I saw a perfect chest-high wave peel down the reef and barrel. Like an apparition, it came and left.
Afterwards, we drove down the coast to the small family-run Restaurant Quetalmahue. Here, we savored another delicious Curanto and a massive plate of briny oysters. Again, the meal was affordable and unpretentious and, like everywhere else on Chiloé, delectable. We soon came to regard Chiloé’s food as the best in the country and some of our favorite cuisine in Latin America.
From here, we spent one more night dining on seafood asado under the stars. The still nights and crashing waves made us drift off into peaceful thoughts. Only the occasional dolphin call brought us back. In the morning, we set off on the next part of our journey to discover Chile’s beer capital, its remote coast of infinite point breaks, and meet the locals affecting environmental reform and land preservation.
To be continued…….