North America

Pox and Revolution: Exploring San Cristobal de las Casas

Photography by Samantha Demangate

In the highlands of Chiapas, far removed from the tropical heat of the coastal valleys, is the Pueblo Magico of San Cristobal de las Casas. At the heart of the city are the indigenous societies that have controlled this land for millennia. Their plight following the NAFTA trade agreement sparked one of Latin America’s most famous armed revolutions and put San Cristobal in the spotlight for its modern leftist revolution and independent political identity. 

7 am in San Cristobal and the hammering begins. We reluctantly wake up, make coffee, and begin our day, serenaded by the neighbors’ incense construction. Strolling in San Cristobal over the course of a week became such a pleasure. The romantic city streets, laced with cobblestone, run through colorful colonial buildings and gardens of pine and cedar. Set on a high plateau in the state of Chiapas, the city has for centuries been a favorite destination for travelers, outdoor enthusiasts, and people interested in the Tzotzil Mayan culture. Much of the city’s attraction also lies in its rebellious history, something the city successfully commodifies.  

Chiapas rang in the new year in 1994 with an armed uprising. An army made up of indigenous farmers known as the Zapatista Army of National Liberation (EZLN) declared war with the Mexican Government. The terms were simple: they wanted the freedom to work and live in their land in peace without the Mexican government selling it to large corporations. Before NAFTA, plots of land owned and farmed by villages, known as ejidos, were protected from privatization under article 27 in Mexico’s constitution. Ejidos have been used to secure farmable land for indigenous communities for centuries and in Chiapas, one of the poorest regions in Mexico, it was the only source of income and food for many people. One of NAFTA’s terms was the disillusionment of Article 27, which would mean the loss of the ejidos which would devastate an already vulnerable population. 

Leftist revolutionary seeds were already planted in the highland communities of Chiapas before the new law went into effect. A year prior, the EZLN made a charismatic idealist from the northern state of Tamaulipas, eventually known to the world as Subcomandante Marcos, their symbolic leader. Within hours of New Year’s day, the Zapatista army, clad in green and black combat gear and black facemasks, took over the city and many other towns in the area. They entered public buildings, destroying land-use files, releasing indigenous prisoners, and officially declared war on the Mexican state. Within days, the Mexican army counterattacked. Several hundred soldiers on both sides died as a result of the 12 day occupation. A ceasefire was called and in 1996, the San Andres Accords were signed between the two sides, guaranteeing the zapatista controlled lands a degree of autonomy. 

This grassroots revolutionary event and several others before it has left an everlasting impact on the city’s culture. Depictions of revolutions and their symbolic figureheads take up space in gift shops and boutiques throughout the city’s main avenues. People with passions for literature, poetry, and music congregate here and few nights go by without live performances or art shows. The atmosphere of intellectualism, creativity, and activism is ripe and the city’s way of channeling this peacefully and esthetically is appealing. 

Today’s adventure tourism is also booming, especially amongst rock climbers, hikers, and mountain bikers. Protected natural areas like El Arcotete contain limitless trails, hiking opportunities and world-class rock climbing. Getting there without a vehicle is done by colectivo or taxi. Colectivos, the Mexican vans that will transport you cheaply, are always thrilling to ride and allow you to meet locals and see places you may not have even known existed. For many, however, the long uphill passes and wide roads are perfectly suited for biking. 

Inside the city, visitors are treated to an abundance of amazing restaurants, bookstores, cafes, and historical landmarks that require at least a week to visit. The city radiates from the central Plaza de La Paz and Plaza 31 de Marzo. The central, pedestrian friendly street Real De Guadalupe hosts limitless eateries and bars that cater to any palette. 

The real treasures of the city lie in the maize of avenues and the incredible establishments tucked away throughout the city. Markets like Mercado Municipal José Castillo Tielemans, a massive fruit and vegetable market frequented by locals, provide hours of excitement. Talking to local merchants and sampling food as we went, we met all kinds of friendly people who were excited to educate us on their local produce. For other items like hand-woven shirts and leather purses, Mercado de la Caridad y Santo Domingo in Plaza de Santo Domingo is a must see. Next door, the beautiful Museo de los Altos de Chiapas Ex Convento de Santo Domingo and Centro de Textiles del Mundo Maya exhibit a wealth of cultural knowledge, perfect for those wanting to learn more about the Maya and their world renowned crafts. 

No visit to San Cristobal would be complete without sampling the local spirit, Pox. Not to be confused with the viral diseases, Pox, pronounced “posh,” is a distilled beverage based on mostly corn and lesser amounts of sugar and/or wheat. It has the flavor of a fresh tortilla and is often infused with local herbs and fruits to give it a diverse flavor profile sure to please any style of drink-lover. The drink is important as a component in ceremonies and festivities. For the best Pox, head to La Espirituosa and Poxmyl.  

San Cristóbal de las Casas is a one of a kind city with a strong cultural heartbeat. Maya culture, artistic and culinary pride, and a revolutionary spirit run through the veins of this area, making it a very unique destination. Artistic expression through murals, art studios, street performers, and architecture radiates throughout the city. To make it even more cerebral is the cool, foggy, and often overcast highland weather. This is another side of Mexico that makes other global artistic powerhouses look uninspired. Another reason this city remains a prized location among the lucky people who call it home.


For more photography by Samantha Demangate check out her website at samitographi.com

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