I know four days isn’t enough to truly experience Spain’s cosmopolitan capital and the Castilian heartland. And to write about such a short stay in what many of my friends call, “their favorite city in Europe” is fairly absurd. However, I had a blast, and there will probably be others who read this with unfortunately as little time to spare in this amazing city. My itinerary was straight forward: three days in Madrid and one day in Spain’s medieval capital Toledo, where I attempted to see and eat everything I could. The highlights of the trip were, as they usually are, intermittently eating with the locals and exploring the rich history and culture that makes this part of the world so special.
Madrid
Spain’s capital city is home to colonial architecture, some of the world’s finest art, and a rich cultural heritage infused with a global cosmopolitan vibe. Its University’s, museums, industries, and football clubs attract millions of people, either to visit or live. Modern skyscrapers, renaissance palaces, and one of the highest green space to people ratios of any city on the planet. Immigrants from all over the world, particularly Latin America and Europe, have brought their cultures and food traditions to this city. The abundance of gourmand glory, global city flare, and verdant parks make it easily one of the best cities in Europe to visit and live.
Madrid was built on top of the vast Meseta Central (Inner Plateau) which covers central Spain. The Manzeneres river dissects the city between old Madrid and the suburbs. Its architecture and cityscape harken to its colonial past, Franco’s Nationalism, and modern status as a global city. What I was looking forward to experiencing the most was the energy so many people fall in love with: the endless food markets, the narrow cobblestone streets radiating from the central plazas dating from the Renaissance period, late night tapas bars, and the unique pace of life. With so much to see and eat and so little time, I set out to explore Madrid.
A Brief History
Madrid was founded by emir Muhammad I of Cordoba in the 9th century. It served as a fortress for the Caliphate of Cordoba, protecting the wealthy city of Toledo from Christian invaders from the north. The walls that guarded the fortress from this era can still be seen today at the southern end of the royal palace.
After Alfonso VI of Leon and Castile conquered the fortress following the end of the Caliphate, Madrid became a recognized city under the kingdom of Castile. During this period all early muslim heritage was systematically removed from the city. Non christians were forced to move from the center, forever altering the city’s culture. Philip II of Spain moved his royal court to the city after Madrid’s population swelled to over 30,000.
After the Spanish court moved from nearby Toledo and then from Valladolid in 1601, Madrid became the official capital of the Kingdom of Spain. As riches poured in from the Americas and other colonies so did new inhabitants. Madrid flourished during the early modern period, becoming one of the most influential centers of European art and culture.
Wars followed prosperity when Spain was engulfed in the bloody Peninsula war with Napoleon’s French empire. This conflict however led to a new period of Spanish history. Creative thinking and progressive ideals took root in Spanish politics and society, culminating into the age of theatres, museums, cafe culture and radical thinking. This led to the establishment of the Second Spanish Republic in 1931 which reduced the influence of the Catholic Church in Spanish politics, introduced liberal policies and social reforms, and granted autonomy to regions outside of Castile.
This liberalization however created a rift between conservatives loyal to the church and the progressive minded left now in power. For years under the Republican government, open anti-clerical views and progressive change further fueled political divisions, leading to one of Europe’s bloodiest civil wars. Madrid remained the capital of the Republic while General Franco’s Nationalists besieged it for over two years. Madrid suffered horrible atrocities and numerous aerial bombardments until the Nationalist took control in 1939.
Franco’s dictatorship lasted until his death in 1979 and the first democratic elections were held. During Franco’s rule Madrid grew to a population of over 3 million inhabitants. Because of the sheer destruction of the nation during the civil war Spain remained technically neutral and managed to avoid the carnage that befell Franco’s axis allies and the other nations of WWII. When most of Europe was rebuilding, Spain had a head start. Madrid has since become one of Europe’s largest metropolitan areas and has one of the highest GDP’s of any European city.
Worthy Sights
Madrid’s filled with historic landmarks that span its rich history and some of the best museums in the world. Luckily with an extensive metro network and walkable streets most can be visited within a few days.
I stayed near the beautiful Madrid-Puerta de Atocha train station. As Madrid’s largest and busiest train station, it serves major cities around Spain and France. From here it’s easy to get around anywhere which makes it the perfect central hub. The station itself is impressive and the tropical garden inside is worth checking out.
Royal Palace (Palacio Real)
Spain’s royal palace is the largest in Europe that’s still in use. The central plaza, known as the Plaza De Armeria, creates an inviting place for people to gather outside its walls. A castle has existed here since the 9th century when the Emir of Cordoba built his fortifications on this ridge. Since then the castle has been amended during each successive kingdom. After a fire destroyed the original alcazar in the early 18th century, a new baroque palace was built
The 135,000 square meter structure contains over 3000 rooms, a royal armory that has housed the royal family’s weapons since medieval times, and the Painting Gallery which exhibits some of the finest pieces of Spanish fine art. Entrance is permitted for a small fee yet most of the rooms are off limits to the public. The changing of the guard happens every Wednesday and Saturday.
Catedral de la Almudena
Catedral de Santa María la Real de la Almudena is one of the most beautiful cathedrals in Europe and home to the archdiocese of Madrid. The spectacular interior pillars loom over the grand halls with beautiful stained glass murals on all sides that capture the sunlight and focus it into colored beams illuminating the detailed carvings inside.
My favorite part was the crypt located in the basement. To access it you must go around the south entrance to Calle Mayor. Upon entering you can donate a small fee to gain access. Once inside you circle around the marble tombs and columns, getting lost in the eerie yet beautiful halls.
Across the street are the impressive old city walls called Muralla Árabe. These structures are arguably the oldest in the city and provided protection during the days of Muslim rule when Spain was known as Al Andulus.
Plaza Mayor and El Mercado de San Miguel
The famous plaza dates back to 1577 when Philip Ⅱ asked his architects to remodel a chaotic section of the city. Through the years it has staged everything from executions to bullfights. Today it is a landmark filled with cultural shops and masses of tourists. A must see is El Mercado de San Miguel, an overpriced but exciting food market showcasing gourmet and traditional food and beverages. A one stop shop to familiarize yourself with Madrid’s culinary gems.
Puerta Del Sol
Only a few blocks away from Plaza Mayor is the heart of Madrid, the place where all the old roads radiate out from – La Puerta Del Sol. This square has traditionally been the central meeting point for Madrileños (residents of Madrid) and tourists alike. Gathering a constant crowd, many of the city’s cultural festivities, demonstrations, and politicized events originate here.
The “Gate of the Sun” originated as part of the long wall that separated the central portion of the city. As the suburbs grew and merged into the old city the gate entered into a new phase as a meeting place. People would gather here for the latest news, to see travelers, and engage in the latest gossip, a civic tradition known as mentideros de la Corte.
A statue of King Charles III stands at attention at the center of the square, overlooked by the famous clocktower which rings in the new year for the thousands of people celebrating below. Close by is the Teatro Real, Madrids theater house which has for centuries been one of the most celebrated in Europe. What’s most impressive is the sheer volume of people who stretch across this open space daily, a true gift for people watchers. Don’t miss the famous bear in a Strawberry Tree statue (El Oso y el Madroño), a towering symbol of Madrid’s coat of arms.
Gran Via
No trip to Madrid would be complete without wandering down the city’s most famous street. The “Spanish Broadway” was the gran vision of Madrid’s restless urban planners. The boulevard was built in the early 20th century and became the city’s premier shopping district. Some of the city’s most photographed buildings line this street including the famous Metropolis building and the Carrion building, with its ever popular Schweppes sign.
Museo del Prado
This is one of the world’s great art museums. Every fan of fine art should aim to visit the Museo Nacional del Prado at some point in their lives. Exhibits from Europe’s greats are on display including Velázquez, El Greco, and Francisco Goya.
Food Highlights
Eating, day in and day out, is what people in Madrid do best. The city is made for every type of self proclaimed foodie. Madrid is fueled by an endless array of Churros cafes, tapas bars, and creative eateries on every street and alley. Let’s not forget about the food markets that are filled with people clustered around some of the best finger food in existence.
like the locals I started my late mornings off with some coffee and churros. These deep fried wands of dough are dipped in a thick hot chocolate and generally eaten with a strong coffee. San Gines, founded in 1894, is arguably the city’s oldest and most famous churros serving Chocolatería. Touristy? — Yes, but oh so delicious.
Most of my time in Madrid was spent roaming the tapas bars located, well, everywhere. Cava Baja is known as “tapas street” and is a great place to start. Tapas bars can run from cheap and easy bar food to more expensive gastro pubs that feature creative menus and great wine. If you’re not traveling on a budget I recommend you visit both extensively.
Probably the oldest tapas bar in Madrid is Bodega de la Ardosa. They’ve been serving masses of hungry clientele for almost 130 years. Here you can take a spot at the wine barrel turned tables and order from their menu which features everything from smokey prawns, grilled artichokes, and their award winning Spanish omelets. Flaky fried potatoes cooked in eggs that are creamy and indescribably delicious. If you must choose a spot to try a traditional tortilla española look no further.
Madrid’s tapas scene is inspired by all of the country’s autonomous regions but has its own specialities. Los Caracoles, snails cooked in a savory broth, are eaten all over Spain but notably popular here in Madrid, especially during Spring and early summer when the small crustaceans begin feasting in people’s gardens. These tiny creatures are best slurped right out of the shell.
Jamón, Spain’s beloved cured ham, is for those without dietary restrictions a staple in this country. Discerning the different grades and varieties can be confusing. Luckily there are many places that serve as a one stop shop to sample some of the country’s best cuts of meat, wine, and cheese. I found Casa González, located a short walk west from the Prado museum on Calle Del León, to be one of the best. Their selections of amazing jamón Ibérico de Bellota and Jamón Ibérico Cebo de Campo are best paired with a glass of wine or sherry and slices of Spanish cheeses. Asking the staff to pair them for you is one of the best experiences you can have in the city.
Although lunch is the biggest meal of the day you’re still going to be eating long after the sun goes down. Dinner is normally eaten after 9pm and endless restaurants around the city serve sublime cuisine at this hour. One of the most esteemed is Sobrino de Botín. It is, according to the Guinness Book of World Records, the oldest restaurant in the world. The restaurant was affectionately mentioned in Ernest Hemingway’s 1926 novel The Sun Also Rises and continues to serve some of the most classic cuisine in the capital.
Toledo
“He who reads much and walks much, goes far and knows much,” Miguel de Cervantes- Don Quixote”
Spain’s glorious ancient capital was the center for steal weaponry in ancient Europe. The Imperial city, as it’s known worldwide, is a spectacle to be observed from the parched hills surrounding it. Don Quixote’s famous route through the region of “La Mancha” chronicles the harsh physical landscape and complex cultural workings of this historic walled city.
Toledo started to gain its importance in late Roman antiquity. After it was conquered by the Visigoths it became an important center of learning on the Iberian peninsula. From 711 to around 1085 the city was ruled by the caliphs of Seville and Cordoba. The muslim rulers allowed Christians and Jews to live in the city which helped create a mixing of cultures that made the city a true melting pot. After the reconquest in 1085 by Alfonso the VI of Spain the city’s inhabitants suffered under the brutal Spanish Inquisition. Spain’s royal capital moved to Madrid in 1561 and Toledo lost its importance to the crown. Without a growing economy and a largely stagnant population there was little need to modernize the medieval buildings in the city center.
Toledo is a short day trip from Madrid. The train from Atocha station only takes around 30 minutes and you can purchase the tickets at the station at ticket machines or inside the RENFE ticket booth. As with all AVE trains its best to purchase tickets several days ahead of time, even in the off season.
Toledo station is just outside of the city. There are plenty of taxis available but the public bus to be the best option – it’s cheap, easy, and you get to sit with locals and experience a bit of everyday life. Once in Toledo the whole city can be accessed on foot.
Toledo is an incredibly touristy destination yet retains its sense of romance and adventure. Amongst its cobblestone streets are centuries of traditions. Metalworking was once its most marketable forte and today it still has a small number of master sword makers keeping the tradition alive.
Food, like in the rest of Spain, is everywhere in Toledo. When walking the streets from 1pm-4pm it’s highly recommended to barge into a place packed with locals. If you don’t have to elbow someone to get inside and the clientel are speaking anything but Spanish, find somewhere else. A worthy meal in Spain requires patience and the ability to tolerate crowds.
Toledo is famous for its fried fish. You can order this as a main course or as a tapa in the local restaurants. Just to reiterate, if you are ordering at a restaurant packed with locals you are probably ordering a good fish. Another must try food is called Mazapan. Mazapan is a sweet bread with almonds and dried fruit. It is commonly eaten during Christmas but available all year round. And of course, there’s jamon. The nutty, rich goodness of Spanish cured pork, sliced on top of a warm baguette.
Famous Sights
Monasterio de San Juan de los Reyes
The famous marriage of King Ferdinand II of Aragon and Queen Isabella I of Castile unified the most powerful kingdoms on the Iberian Peninsula and created the kingdom of Spain. Upon the birth of their son, Prince John, the christened the Monasterio De San Juan de Los Reyes in the late 15th century. The monastery is a beautiful structure and one of the most important surviving examples of Isabelline gothic architecture. The beautiful cloisters and medieval facades are incredibly well preserved.
Toledo Cathedral
For fans of medieval gothic architecture this is the crème de la crème. The building, a goliath gothic masterpiece, was built on the ruins of the former mosque of Toledo between the 13th and 15th centuries. It contain’s some of Europes oldest and most beautiful stained glass windows. The most famous of all is the famous Rose Window above the Puerta Del Reloj. Flying buttresses, and massive columns support the structure, towering over the carved sculptures of the choir stall.
Inside the main chapel (Cepilla Mayor) sits the altarpiece and its indescribably ornate retable. Surrounding the main chapel are several smaller chapels, each containing treasures and fine art rivaling any museum. If this isn’t enough the sacristy, the room where sacred objects are kept, holds the most valuable pieces of fine art, jewel encrusted golden relics, and manuscripts dating back to the middle ages. For a small fee you can climb up the bell tower and get an overhead view of the city. To say the building left an impression would be an understatement.
For me the highlight of Toledo was the view from Mirador Del Valle. You can access this spot from the tourist bus, taxi, or on foot if you’re in good shape and the weather is cool. Just go downhill from the eastern side of the Alcazar. Head downhill and cross the bridge at Ronda del Juanelo. Follow the road up hill past the restaurant and bar and the main lookout can’t be missed. The short hike leads you away from tourists and onto a grassy knoll peppered with ancient boulders and ruins. I would recommend anyone hiking to the top to bring slices of jamon, bread, fruit, and wine with them. Enjoy this spot properly by having a Spanish-style picnic while dangling your legs over the boulders and enjoy one of the best views in Europe.
In Conclusion
Heading back to Madrid I peered out my window over the wide swaths of northern “La Mancha.” Spain’s capital region, the fertile highlands, and the immense metropolis that many of my friends call their favorite city in Europe, left an indelible impact on my impressionable vagabond mind. As I sit here typing away I fathom my next visit, longer in duration, and visualize a massive bocadillo filled with jamon iberico in my hand and a cold beer on my table.