The heart of Spain’s autonomous Catalonian region pulses with a rhythm few cities have. It embodies the creative movements that have shaped it into the enigmatic art and gastronomy capital of modern Spain while simultaneously exerting its national identity into the core of its society. The white star and red and yellow stripes of the Catalonian flag hang proudly from balconies as constant reminders of this. Even the regional language Catalan is spoken as much as Spanish in many households. Cobblestone streets, tapas bars, unworldly cathedrals, and modernist design set the stage for one of the most exuberant cityscapes on the planet. Engrossed in the city’s nocturnal vibe and welcoming disposition I spent several days seeing, eating, and drinking whatever beautiful thing I could, in what would become one of my favorite cities in Europe: Barcelona.
Nestled 160 kilometers (100 miles) from the French border, Barcelona is one of the largest metropolitan regions on the Mediterranean coast. A true global city, it’s a leader in fashion, industry, and art. Because of its economic prestige and strong national identity it feels, in many ways, independent from the kingdom of Spain.
The city lies on the northeast coast of the Iberian Peninsula on the Mediterranean sea. Around the first century the Romans began settling here and eventually christened it the regional capital. In the Ciutat Vella section of the city’s gothic quarter you can visit several ruins from Roman Barcelona including columns from the Temple of Augustus. After Rome weakened the city fell to the Visigoths who ruled for several centuries until the Moors, led by their famous general Tariq ibn Ziyad, took the Iberian peninsula, known to them as Al-Andalus, and eventually reached Barcelona, ruling it for almost a century.
In the beginning of the 9th century the powerful emperor of the Frankish Carolingian Empire, known throughout Europe as Charlemagne, created new southern battle lines into the northern Iberian peninsula. These encroachments into Moorish territory became known as the Spanish Marches. From this point on, the powerful Counts of Barcelona ruled the newly established region of Catalan. The region would remain under the rule of the Kingdom of Aragon and later the kingdom of Spain after King Ferdinand II of Aragon married Queen Isabella I of Castile. Aside from a brief invasion by Napoleon’s French Empire it remained an autonomous part of the Spanish crown.
When the Industrial Revolution hit Europe Barcelona developed into an outwardly expanding economic powerhouse. At the turn of the century, when industry was bringing the city to the forefront of Europe, internal political divisions between Spain’s left and right began to boil over. In 1936, after a democratically elected Republican government was overthrown by a coup d’état followed by a Nationalist rebellion civil war broke out. Nationalists and Left Wing factions fought a bloody war that many say led the groundwork for WWII’s brutality in combat. In may of 1937 Barcelona saw several days of violent clashes between members of the Spanish Republican party, anarchist labor unions, the Government of Catalonia, and other leftist factions which became known as the May Days. In 1938 Italian bombers, in support of General Franco’s Nationalists, dropped over 40 tons of bombs on the old quarter of the city, killing over a thousand civilians and damaging the city’s gothic landmarks. Franco’s Nationalists won the war and roared into the city as victors in 1939.
In an attempt to shatter Catalonian independence they abolished the use of the language in public and stripped the institutions that preserved their cultural heritage and political autonomy. Franco suppressed any political opposition, Spanish languages other than Castilian Spanish were banned, and freedom of speech and religion a fleeting reality. The city’s economy however flourished under Franco’s totalitarian rule and waves of immigrants from poorer regions of Spain flooded in. Modern housing projects vastly expanded the urban landscape. A modern metro network and highways were constructed to meet the growing needs. When Franco died in 1975, a period of democratization swept through the country, once again giving breath to Catalonian autonomy and language. Barcelona was now poised to become a truly international city.
Famous Sights
Before the Spanish civil war the city experienced an artistic renaissance known as Modernisme. For roughly two decades preceding and following the turn of the 20th century artists, architects, poets, and writers took Catalonian cultural identity and an anti-bourgeois attitude to create art that would challenge and effect change. What came out of this movement has left an indelible impact on world culture and art.
Basílica de La Sagrada Família
The most famous of these contributors was Antoni Gaudí, the Catalonian architect who built some of the city’s most famous landmarks. The most famous of these unforgettable buildings is the heavenly monolithic Basílica de La Sagrada Família.
Both polarizing and mesmerizing, no other building represents Barcelona better than Gaudi’s unfinished masterpiece. Construction began in 1882 and when Gaudi died in 1926 it was only about 25% complete. Three facades, each representing a different biblical story, make up the exterior. The eastern Nativity facade is the oldest and the only one designed by Gaudi himself. The exterior is best photographed at sunset and twilight yet I thoroughly enjoyed viewing the structure at night.
Like many great landmarks in Europe it is important to purchase your tickets a few days ahead of time, keeping in mind that the basilica was designed to harvest and manipulate light. A sunny mid afternoon guarantees that the sun’s rays will perfectly enter through the stained glass windows, creating a vibrantly angular kaleidoscope effect photographer’s and psychonauts dream about. If you’re in good health and not afraid of heights you should also schedule a visit to the towers. A short elevator ride takes you to the top of the main hall and from here narrow stone steps weave through the gothic exterior carvings. Some of the best views of the city and the basilica are found at the top.
Casa Milá “La Pedrera”
Gaudi and his team of architects and designers stayed busy and many of his masterpieces are scattered throughout the city. Casa Milá is one of the city’s most famous modernist buildings and last civil work of Antoni Gaudi. In line with his other grand designs the building’s central theme is of undulating steel and stone decorated with paintings and carvings inspired by biblical stories and natural wonders. The facade is entirely self supporting making it possible for walls to be taken out freely if the residents desire.
Casa Batlió and Casa Amatlle
Just about four blocks south from Casa Milá on the fashionista superhighway of Passeig de Grácia are Casa Batlió and Casa Amatlle. The multicolored sandstone of Casa Batlió is one of Gaudi’s most colorful masterpieces. Named after the Batlió family who purchased the building, it boasts an incredibly intricate exterior design, consisting of three levels, each harmoniously joined in a curving dance of steel and sandstone. The interior of the main building houses a museum on the largest “noble floor.” Here you can really gain an appreciation of not only Gaudi’s structural design but of the beautiful stained glass windows and interior art decorations.
Park Güell
At the height of Catalonian Modernism’s popularity the Spanish entrepreneur Eusebi Güell and Antoni Gaudi conceived the idea of a beautiful park and lavish estate overlooking the city. Together they created a space that blends elements from the natural world seamlessly with Gaudi’s ingenious architectural representations of Catalonia, mythological creatures, and the architects devout Catholicism.
The park is Located on the base of Carmel hill and accessible from L3 Vallcarca, Lesseps stations, or the city tour bus. It’s best to make reservations a few days ahead of time in order to gain entry into the park. Several of Antoni Gaudi’s sculptures are on display here including the famous multicolored mosaic salamander. As you meander up the hill Gaudi’s organic designs emerge around you. Make sure to take in the incredible view of the city as well as spend time analyzing the small details of the great works adorning this iconic natural setting.
Modernism is just one of many facets of Barcelona’s architectural heritage. Barri Gotic or Gothic Quarter is the original heart of the city. Although historic, many of the buildings were built or renovated in time for the 1929 International Exhibition. The Gothic quarter was built before automotive transportation and therefore its streets run like narrow passageways through a disorienting labyrinth.
Best accessed from Jaume station on L4 or Liceu station on L3, this is the most popular section of the city for tourists and late night crowds. Amongst the narrow cobble stoned streets are trendy clothing shops, medieval buildings, museums, tapas bars, and night clubs like the Moog and the Macarena club. By day the streets are filled with people wandering the historic sights, shopping, or enjoying a sociable meal at one of the many restaurants. But after midnight Barri Gotic comes alive.
Amongst the Gothic Quarter’s historical sights is the Barcelona Cathedral. Built between the 13th and 14th centuries and dedicated to the co-patron saint of Barcelona, Saint Eulalia, the cathedral is the seat of the archbishop of Barcelona. Inside you feel as though you’re transported back to the days of medieval Catalonia. The coats-of-arms from the old knights of Catalonia hang on the walls overlooking the ambient gothic stonework of the vaulted aisles. Menacing gargoyles stand outside the walls, peering out over the revelers below.
Santa María del Mar church
The church of Santa Maria by the Sea is one of the largest and oldest cathedrals in the city. The narrow streets and tall medieval buildings hide it from view from most vantage points. It was built between 1329 and 1383 when Catalonia was a dominant navel and trade power.
The Gothic Quarter’s narrow streets lead into the quirky museum rich district of La Ribera just a short walk to the Northeast. Inside the quarter’s medieval buildings are some of the city’s most famous restaurants and museums.
Museo Picasso
Located a short walk from Jaume station (L4) in the bank district, the museum houses over 4000 collections of art from the 20th century Spanish artist Pablo Picasso. The artist had a long affinity with Barcelona and when preparations were underway for his museum to be built they chose five 14th century mansions to house it. Picasso’s longtime friend Juame Sabartes and the artist himself donated the majority of the pieces.
Mercat Boqueria
Take the Line 3 to Liceu station. The market is located on the popular La Rambla street. A large steel structure built in 1840 encases the old market which has probably been functioning as far back as 1200. Although touristy, the market is the perfect showcase for the city’s culinary specialities. I spent the better part of an afternoon roaming around the market and sampling everything I could.
Born Centre Cultural
The Born Centre Cultural is the largest covered square in Europe, located at the very eastern end of the historic La Ribera district. It was once Barcelona’s largest market until 1971 when it became a massive derelict warehouse. Each city government cycled through plans for the large space until, in 2003, the ruins of the original 18th century neighborhood were found and the city decided to showcase it as a cultural center and museum. The former Ribera neighborhood was destroyed during the war of Succession in 1714. The ruins are impressive and allow the visitor to imagine the city layout during the time of King Charles Ⅱ.
Barcelona’s Arc de Triomf is located at the northern end of the promenade Passeig de Lluís Companys. The monument, inspired by the famous Parisian landmark, was built for the 1888 Barcelona World Fair. It’s a common gathering point for entertainers, busking musicians, and runners.
Recinte Modernista Sant Pau Barcelona via Avenida De Gaudi
From La Sagrada Família’s northeast towers take a stroll down Avenida De Gaudi towards the former hospital turned museum and architectural wonder, the Hospital de la Santa Creu i Sant Pau. Largely ignored by most visitors to Barcelona, the building boasts a large collection of modern art and beautiful architecture.
The pedestrian friendly Avenida De Gaudi acts like a boulevard connecting La Sagrada Familia and the Hospital de la Santa Creu i Sant Pau. The avenue is lined with modernista streetlamps designed by Pere Falqués and hosts many boutique shops, restaurants, and tapas bars, which I found to be some of the best in the city.
Magic Fountain of Montjuïc
Constructed for the 1929 Barcelona International Exposition the fountain begins its light show at 7pm in the Spring and Fall and 9pm in the summer.
Sarria
At one time the the town of Sarria was a sleepy village tucked in the foothills west of the old city. Since the Industrial revolution it has been engulfed in urban sprawl, yet miraculously, it maintains its small town charm. Spending an afternoon and evening in this charming hamlet is highly recommended.
Sarria stretches from the busy Passeig de la Bonannova street to Avenida Diagonal. A good route is to start at the Mercat de Sarria and sample an array of food, then make your way to the 18th century Església de Sant Vicenç de Sarrià (church of Saint Vincent of Sarria), and finally meander downhill sampling the many tapas and delicatessens on Carrer Major de Sarria.
Monastario de Pedralbes is a beautiful 14th century gothic monastery close to the Sarria district. It was one of my favorite places to explore. The monastery was founded by the king and queen of Aragon in 1326. Since then it has become a museum, housing an impressive collection of art and artifacts from its long history.
Food Highlights
Barcelona has one of the most exciting food scenes in Europe. The locals have a love affair with dining out and this is reflected in not only the number of restaurants, cafes, and food markets but their quality as well. Some of Spain’s best restaurants are here including the restaurant Tickets and nearby Girona’s award winning El Celler de Can Roca. The famous El Bulli, the imaginative home to modern molecular gastronomy and haute cuisine, was located just up the coast.
Like the rest of Spain lunch remains the most important and popular meal of the day. Restaurants and bars fill with patrons from 1pm to 4pm. Although you’ll be fighting for a table it’s good practice anywhere in the world to eat when and where the locals do.
It’s hard to say when the tradition of serving small plates of food with your drink started but for Spaniards and Catalonians Tapas are king. In Barcelona tapas bars can be found anywhere and are generally packed during lunch and dinner. Many small bites contain the ubiquitous sardine, incredibly addictive shavings of jamon, and the Catalonian favorite of bread slices drenched in olive oil and tomato pulp known as pa amb tomàquet.
It is imperative to visit as many of the city’s gastro markets as possible including the famous Mercat de la Boqueria and El National. Here you can sample a whole range of unique foods at reasonable prices. Oyster and sparkling wine (cava) pairings along with traditional deserts, dried fruits, olives, and some of the region’s best wine and cheese.
The Mediterranean sea provides an abundance of incredible seafood year round. Paella de marisco or Seafood paellas are delicious and can be found on many restaurant menus around the city. Freshly caught sardines, squid, cuttlefish, and bite -sized octopus grilled over a wooden fire were some of my favorites. Paired with juicy olives and washed down with a glass of Priorat it’s hard to complain.
Getting Around
Barcelona El-Prat airport is situated south of the city. line 9 connects it with Barcelona’s metro network which is the fastest way to get around. The Hola BCN card is a great value. If you only have a few days the Barcelona Bus Turistic is the best option. It takes you around the city to most of Barcelona’s top sights and allows you to jump on and off to explore the city on your own. Busses come every ten minutes to pick you up to continue the route around the city. For bicyclists, the Barcelona offers a connected and safe network of bike lanes in and around the metro area and several companies rent bikes and offer tours. Here are a few:
http://www.barcelonabiking.com/
http://www.bornbikebarcelona.com/en/
Expect to pay less than €10 an hour. Each company provides about the same service.
Barcelona is connected by train to most major Spanish and European cities. Barcelona Sants train station is the primary hub for all domestic and international departures and arrivals. The station is connected to the Metro via Green Line, L3 and Blue Line, L5.
Barcelona Franca station, located just east of old town, is the city’s oldest. It currently only serves stops between Barcelona and Valencia. Franca station is connected to the Metro at Line 10: Estacio de Franca to Sants.
Links
Airbnb is an indispensable asset while traveling through Europe. Slightly more expensive than a hostel, it’s a way to stay at a local’s home, meet them, get local advice, and feel comfortably situated and ready to explore. When choosing a room or apartment always look at how many stars and awards the place has received. It helps to contact the host with any questions you may have; getting to know who they are as people. By starting this process as far in advance as possible you can score unbelievable room and board.