‘Ageless’ was the first word that came to my mind as the weathered mixed-use complexes, pagodas, and stupas passed by me. Motorists endlessly sounding their horns as the chaos of the morning traffic churned my stomach into knots. My taxi driver, friendly as can be, handled this fluid mess with ease and grace, his dashboard shrine shifting after every hairpin turn. As I arrived at my small family run hostel I stored my bags and immediately set off wondering the city streets, passing Hindu temples, quirky mom-and-pop shops, and momo stands. Tibetan prayer flags and burning incense guiding me further into the side alleys leading nowhere. The people I passed — from school children to shopkeepers, holymen to sherpas — were quick to greet me with a smile. I was far away from the touristy Thamal neighborhood and happy. Returning I found myself stuck in darkness as the capital experiences scheduled daily power outages. Alone and lost I luckily found my way home, eager for the adventure that lay ahead, still beaming with excitement from my first few hours in Nepal.
I prepped surprisingly little for my first introduction to this beautiful little country. I figured I didn’t have enough time for mountaineering — the country’s most famous draw for tourists is climbing the tallest and most challenging peaks in the world. Instead of adventure I opted to use my first visit as an introduction into the rich culture and history of this amalgamation of former himalayan kingdoms.
My journey took me from the country’s sprawling capital: Kathmandu, with its swarms of auto-rickshaws and dense urban-development, to the small lakeside city of Pokhara in the west — the gateway to the Annapurna Mountains. My trip ended in the tiny town of Bhaktapur which sits high in the foothills surrounding Kathmandu valley. Throughout this loop I was treated to wonderful experiences, getting to know locals, Tibetan monks, and other travelers; each with a unique and inspiring take on this mysterious nation.
For thousands of years this tiny country, bordering the great civilizations of India and China has been at the crossroads of civilization. Multi-ethnic, multicultural, and teaming with various religions and languages, Nepal is rich in traditions which seem to effortlessly blend into daily life. To understand the country, its demographics, and politics, you have to understand a little bit about its history, a complex and often brutal tale of invasion and conquest, in one of the most spiritual countries on earth.
Prehistoric people from the Indus Valley civilizations settled the fertile plains of central Nepal, followed by nomadic tribes from the Tibetan Plateau. The Kirat people became the first documented tribe and formed Nepal’s earliest kingdoms. The Mauryan and Gupta Empires ruled Nepal’s southern plains during this period. One of the later’s princes, known extensively as Siddhārtha Gautama, went on to start one of the world’s great religions — Buddhism.
Several centuries passed until a unified army from Eastern India marched into the Kathmandu Valley and defeated the last Kirati king, thus establishing the Licchavi kingdom. Originating from various corners of India these dynasties brought many cultural and religious influences to Nepal. Much of this influence can still be felt in Kathmandu Valley’s three spiritual centers: Kathmandu, Patan, and Bhaktapur, which were all three capitals of the valleys’ small Malla kingdoms.
Nepal’s unification is the result of the warlike King Prithvi Narayan Shah of Gorkha. In 1786 his army invaded the Kathmandu Valley and expanded throughout the region, acquiring vast territories through armed conflict with the small enemy kingdoms. After its unification many political and military conflicts arose culminating in the invasion of Tibet and Northern India. The kingdom of Tibet enlisted the help of the Chinese Empire which sent armies to their aid. Fierce battles and heavy losses on both sides eventually ended in a stalemate between the two, with Nepal having to pay tributes as reparations to the Chinese Emperor. The dynasties that followed this skirmish brought a more isolationist attitude to Nepal, protecting it from colonial influences but also slowing down its modernization.
After India gained its independence a fervor of anti-royal feelings emerged, especially amongst the educated classes. For the pro-british Nepalese King, the last of the Rana Dynasty, this was a cause for concern. Several pro-democracy parties formed, setting off a wave of revolts which sent the king into exile. Eventually the revolts were quelled and the king returned, drafting a new representative government based on the British system. Following a coup in 1960, the new king Mahendra drafted a new constitution.
From here on, hostilities outside and within the royal family exploded. On June 1, 2001 Prince Dipendra, the 29 year old son of King Birendra, opened fire on several members of his family while they were celebrating at an event at the royal palace. The bullets took the lives of his father, King Birendra, his mother, Queen Aishwarya, and seven other members of his family before he tried taking his own life. Mortally wounded yet still alive he officially became king for three days until he finally died from his wounds. To this day his motives are unknown, yet plenty of speculation exists and continues to draw controversy and mourning. Upon his death his brother’s uncle Gyanendra became the last king of Nepal and the world’s last Hindu king. Nepal would become a Federal Democratic Republic in 2008.
Kathmandu
Flying into Nepal’s capital is not for the faint of heart. At over 2000m the Phulchowki mountains encircle the valley to the south. To make the pass, the planes have to drop down severely close to the green mountains and into the smoggy valley below, lining up with the narrow runway of Kathmandu’s international airport.
The capital is a sprawling metropolis of over 2.5 million people. Its location as a waypoint between China and India, its fertile soil, and fortress-like mountain periphery made it ripe to develop as a hub for global trade and political dominance. It has been a center for creatives and artists for decades, attracting counter-culture rebels from the West, gurus and spiritual pilgrims, and a constant stream of workers from Nepal’s hinterland.
Nightly power outages frequently bring the city into temporary darkness. The horns of the motorbikes seem to grow louder at this time. At night Kathmandu is full of night-life. There are bars and clubs geared towards everyone, from local hang-outs and cheap tucked away joints packed with sherpas, to the ultra fancy socialite hubs like Mezze and Moksh.
Wandering around the city I was treated to the richness of Nepalese cuisine and here in the capital you can get it all. The common Nepalese meals contain healthy ingredients with a perfect blend of spices, expressed best in dishes like daal-bhaat-tarkaari — a lentil, rice, and vegetable multi-dish thali plate. Pickles are served alongside the meal and are often richly spiced.
Momos, the small ubiquitous dumplings served at every street corner, are originally Tibetin yet have found their way into the hearts of the Nepalese people. Steamed, stuffed goodness, Momos are light and savory, and perfect for on-the-go nourishment so craved by travelers and sherpas alike. They are generally filled with a rich combination of seasoned meat and vegetables and wrapped in a thin dough to be steamed or fried. Served with rich sauces they became an everyday delight for me.
After consuming an alarming amount of dumplings and curries I headed out to explore the many sites which make this city a cultural treasure. The city sees huge numbers of religious pilgrims each year as it hosts a wide range of sites sacred to Buddhists and Hindus alike. The Bagmati River that runs through Kathmandu is considered the holy life force of the valley. Every year thousands of people crowd the rivers’ polluted waters around Pashupatinath Temple where Nepal’s most sacred burning ghats are located. Bodies are emulated next to the holy river, a burial considered by many Nepalise Hindus as the surest way into heaven.
The city’s customs have a deep root in the spiritual realm, with millions of gods purportedly residing in the valley. To this day an age old tradition of worshiping child reincarnations of the deity Taleju remains. Chosen as toddlers following the examination of auspicious beauty marks and features, these young girls known as Kumari become living messengers from heaven until they reach puberty and return to the mortal realm. Political leaders, holimen, and anyone considered fortunate enough to visit kneels before them in reverence as their moods and reactions are said to determine the future of the nation.
Durbar Square
At one time the city radiated from a political center full of palaces, temples, courtyards, and fountains fed by an aqueduct dug from the surrounding mountains. Kathmandu’s Durbar Square is the historical heart of the city and one of three Durbar Squares in the valley. Durbar means ‘palace’ and during Nepal’s age of kingdoms the squares served as the political and religious hearts of the small kingdoms that ruled the valley and later became the regional administrative centers of the newly unified kingdom.
Durbar Square is built around the Hanuman Dhoka Palace — a five-acre complex of temples and royal manors built by the kings of the Malla and Shah dynasties. The palaces that once housed the royal family and their entourage are now museums dedicated to preserving the history and culture of the Kathmandu valley kingdoms and nation as a whole. The temples are built in reverence to the hindu god Hanuman, the god of strength and protection, and his image adorns many facades and wooden window frames throughout the complex.
Entrance into the palace is through Hanuman Dhoka (Hanuman Gate) at the western end of Durbar Square. The gate is guarded by soldiers and decorated with golden carvings. The main palace surrounds the charming courtyards known as ‘Choks’. The main courtyard, Nasal Chok, is surrounded by the palace museum. Once you pay a small fee you can enter the museum and wander through the wooden building. Floors creak beneath you as you get to the nine storied Basantapur Tower. From the top floors you can get a beautiful panorama of the square and surrounding buildings. PanchMukhi Hanuman Temple, a five storied circular pagoda stands at the eastern end of the palace and entrance is restricted to priests.
Further outside the palace courtyards 16th century pagoda temples dominate the square. built by a succession of Malla and Shah kings. The largest and most famous is Taleju Temple. Rising several floors outside the Mul Chok courtyard, the centuries old pagoda majestically stands with its golden entrance flanked by depictions of the sacred river goddesses Ganges and Yamuna. Pigeons cover the temple roofs and cobblestone steps and many locals and visitors alike spend hours meandering through these romantic structures.
After the earthquake of 2015 many of its landmarks were destroyed or badly damaged and rebuilding continues with donations from across the world. Luckily many of the beautiful landmarks still stand. The most deified of the remaining structures is the Kumari Ghar, the palace where the Royal Kumari of Kathmandu lives. It was built in the year 1757 by the King Jaya Prakash Malla to house the child goddesses. Beautifully carved open windows surround the inner courtyard where the Kumari makes her appearance on special occasions and on random days for the public between 3-5pm. Here devotees crowd around below as she greets them, eager to see and be seen by her.
Boudhanath
Since 1979 the great Boudha Stupa, one of the largest in the world, has been a UNESCO World Heritage Site and sacred pilgrimage for Buddhists and the Tibetin diaspora. While its history is largely unknown several legends state that it has been a sacred site for several millennia. Its massive stupa was probably constructed in the 14th century and has since become one of the great Buddhist pilgrimage sites in South Asia. Tibetin traders have been visiting the stupa for centuries and since the 1950’s a large Tibetin community has developed around it. Gift shops, restaurants, and cafes have emerged, creating a central business and cultural district for Tibetins living in Nepal.
The stupa is massive and towers roughly 36m over the city; its pairs of eyes radiate in cardinal directions, depicting the all-knowingness of the Buddha. Around the base butter lamps and large metal prayer wheels line the periphery. Devotees circumambulate clockwise around the base, observing the rituals that accompany a visit. Incense smoke billows from the stupa as people chant, pray, and meditate, creating a spiritual energy anyone will carry with them long after the visit.
Swayambhunath Stupa
In the Northwestern part of the city, at the top of a large hill infested with simian guardians is another sacred pilgrimage site known as the Swayambhunath Stupa. Known to many as ‘monkey temple’ it’s sacred to both buddhists and hindus alike. The sites’ history dates back thousands of years and by the 13th century it was one of Buddhisms’ holiest pilgrimage sites.
Visitors earn their entrance by climbing the large narrow stairs to the top, surrounded by monkeys begging for food and drinks. A roadway leading to the entrance is used by large groups and the less adventurous or healthy worshipers. Once you arrive you are greeted by a breathtaking panoramic view of the smog ridden yet beautiful Kathmandu valley below.
Statues, shrines, prayer wheels, and images of deities surround the stupas’ base attracting crowds of eager devotees to prayer and meditation. Seas of candles and incense bowls are used throughout the day, creating a cascade of light and floral smoke. Offerings of floral pujas by hindu devotees rest throughout the complex. Although damaged, the stupa remained intact during the great earthquake of 2015.
Kopan Monastery
Perched on the terraced Kopan hill overlooking the valley sits one of Nepal’s largest and most venerated centers for Tibetin Buddhism. Under the guidance of Lama Zopa Rinpoche the center preserves the Gelug tradition of Tibetan Mahayana Buddhism. Just under 400 monks and teachers live and practice here, conducting courses and meditation retreats for visitors from all over the world.
Visiting the monastery is a must for anyone interested in Buddhism or Tibetan culture. The monks and nuns who live here are very eager to share their customs and knowledge with guests. The compound itself is full of beautiful trails that lead to shrines, stupas, prayer wheels, and gardens, covered in Tibetan prayer flags. The views of the valley and the surrounding forested hills form a stunning backdrop to the surreal setting. I couldn’t help spending hours here, listening to the chanting of the mantras by the monks inside the hall, closing my eyes and becoming absorbed in the present moment.
Pokhara
Rice terraces dot the surrounding hillsides and steep terrain at the foot of the Himalayas. The highways in Nepal bend around the mountainsides at incredible angles and often nothing but a mound of dirt separates the vehicle and nervous passengers from the massive cliffs. The reality is that thousands of people die every year on Nepal’s roads, a sad statistic that continues to climb each year as more motorists take to the streets. Driver negligence, poor infrastructure, and inclimate weather all play a part in these tragedies.
Unfortunately I was well aware of this statistic when I ventured west towards the small city of Pokhara, the gateway to the Annapurna. Although I didn’t come for the world class trekking, there was plenty to see in Nepal’s second largest city.
Resting on the shores of the beautiful Phewa lake and within eyesight of three out of the ten highest mountains in the world — Annapurna I, Dhaulagiri, and Manaslu, each less than 60 kilometers from the city — Pokhara is an overwhelmingly beautiful spot to spend a few days in.
My first meal here was a feast of goat curry and local yogurt and yak cheeses that filled me up perfectly for the long hike the next day. Sitting atop Anadu Hill to the south side of Phewa lake is the Pokhara Shanti Stupa. Built in the late 90’s by the Japanese monk Morioka Sonin, after a long planning process, it became one of Nepal’s most sacred Buddhist landmarks. Known as the international peace pagoda it stands overlooking Phewa lake, Pokhara, and the entirety of the Annapurna Range.
Although taking a water taxi across the lakeshore and hiking up from the base is the easiest way to reach the temple, I chose to do the long trek from the Phewa Dam. The trail is notorious for the muggings that have plagued hikers for years. In the recent decade however the police have greatly improved the safety of the jungle trail leading up the mountain although it’s still advised to travel in groups.
The next day I rented a small boat and spent the entire day paddling around Phewa Lake, Nepal’s second largest body of water and one of my favorite natural settings in South Asia. Surrounded by lush forest and small villages on its southern banks, the lake is breathtakingly serene especially when the mighty Annapurna range is clearly visible and reflecting off its surface.
Rowing across the lake from town you pass the two story Tal Barahi Temple, commonly known as the lake temple. Incense smoke bellows from the small island temple and coats the smooth surface of the lake like a morning dew potpourri. The hindu temple was built on a small island and was dedicated to the Goddess Durga. Every day devotees take small water taxis across the lake to worship on the island and visitors too can paddle up next to it to pay respects.
Swimming might not be advisable in the lake but I had a blast doing it. Several hours can be spent paddling along the unpopulated shoreline jungle and relaxing in the cool water while listening to monkeys and wild birds skirmish in the treeline above. Once the day was over and the sun set over the lake the most beautiful sunset sent me off as I returned to shore.
The last day in Pokhara I took a taxi up the hill to the small village of Sarangkot, a place which offers some of the best and most accessible views of the Annapurna range. From here I sat on the concrete wall, feet dangling in front of me, lost in the view of the entire Annapurna lit up by the evening light, a visualization that sticks with me to this day.
Boarding the Bus back to the Kathmandu valley I felt relaxed from my time in Pokhara. The mountain air and freshwater swimming was a perfect respite from the smoggy capital. The return trip was split up by a short lunch stop in a tiny village near the highway. The food in this tiny roadside inn was incredibly satisfying. A small creek ran through the wooded property. It felt like the Sierra Nevadas in a way and instilled a sense of Nostalgia for California few places in Asia have ever done. I took the time here to talk to some other travelers: a Nepalise family, a few sherpas, and another American hiker. Our conversations over a warm thali meal and fresh baked bread were full of stories from their expeditions in the Annapurna, an adventure I too would love to do someday.
Bhaktapur
After returning to the valley I took a small bus to the ancient town of Bhaktapur, some 13 kilometers east of the capitol. Rich in UNESCO protected cultural landmarks and timeless traditions, this sleepy little town captured my heart. With only foot traffic and water buffalo to circumnavigate, the aged brick streets and weathered wooden pagodas are a paradise for exploration on foot. The sounds of hammers and chisels echo along the dusty alleyways. Religious hymns known as bhajans ring out through the old square.
The town, once the small capital city of the wealthy kingdom of Bhaktapur, is still full of traditions and festivities that have survived for centuries. Religious customs and aesthetics permeate throughout the town and nothing embodies the spirituality — predominantly Hindu — than the warm people who live here. Blessed by tourist dollars and a protected status by the Nepalis government, Bhaktapur’s locals have lots to be happy about.
That is until mother nature violently jolts the area, the most recent of which was the earthquake of April 2015 which severely damaged many of the monuments in Durbar Square and flattened homes throughout the region. Luckily the town fared better than areas closer to the epicenter west of Kathmandu. Since then the town, and surrounding villages, were able to rebuild.
The center of the town is its Durbar Square and the shikhara-style temples, statues, pagodas, and the 55 window brick and wooden palace that stands at the center of the area like a weathered beacon. The most distinctive building is the five storied Nyatapola Temple, one of the oldest and tallest pagodas in Nepal. Here visitors climb the high steps and pay tribute to the goddess Shiddhilaxmi for which it’s dedicated. Mini Pashupati Temple, a smaller two storied temple, and Bhairabnath Temple, another multi-storied pagoda, imposingly stand over the red bricked courtyard.
The more time you spend here the more your attention starts to move away from the surreal architecture and towards the intricate wall carvings that adorn every building in rich depictions of Hindu epics and historical sagas. The beautiful Lun Dhwākhā or Golden Gate is one of the finest examples of this. On its walls are depictions of the Hindu goddess Kali and the mythical griffin Garuda amongst the other deities and creatures from mythology.
Wondering Bakhtapur’s backstreets you pass all types of artisans and craftsmen. Painters and sculptors work in the shops and display their crafts to passers by. Many of the same talents are utilized when preparing for the town’s festivals which attract thousands of visitors and devotees each year. In April the town indulges in the Nepalise New Year celebration known as Bisket Jatra. Huge wooden chariots with enshrined figures of hindu gods built on palanquins are pulled through the town’s streets by often inebriated men. After the third day of chaos invelops the streets the chariots are left in their final resting places where clocals come to pray to the deities enshrined in them.
Bhaktapur specializes in another exquisite art that I found myself enthralled in: Yogurt. Nepal has been making Dhau for centuries, the rich creamy curd is unlike anything else I’ve ever tried. But Bhaktapur’s richer and thicker variation, known as Juju dhau, is the best yogurt I’ve ever had in my life — period. In the Newari language Juju dhau means “king of yogurt” and it lives up to its name. Made from buffalo milk instead of cow’s milk, the sweetened curd is served in small clay bowls, often during festivities of any size. For me, ending my stay in this tiny town with several empty clay bowls and an empty mug of tea in front of me was an absolute treat.
To cap off my experience in Nepal I took a short drive up the mountain from Bhaktapur to the tiny village of Nagarkot. It was 5am, well before sunrise when I arrived. Already there were people bundled in warm clothes, sipping tea. Monks were chanting mantras and spinning prayer wheels. Incense filled the cold air. Suddenly the first light appeared and the vague silhouette of the Himalayas appeared in the distance. As the sun rose from the East it casted its rays directly on the highest peak on planet earth — Mt. Everest. The scene was surreal. Everyone was silent, together relishing this moment of surreal beauty in one of the most enchanting countries on earth.