A calm mist settled over the centuries old temples in front of me as I woke to the sun creeping up over the tree-line across the river. Flocks of colorful birds began circling the crumbling ruins as the sun rose higher. The first sounds of dawn in Orchha weren’t car horns or train whistles but the sounds of the Indian Rollers and junglefowls echoing through the forest.
The rolling green hills of the Bundelkhand region in the central Indian state of Madhya Pradesh was home to one of central India’s great kingdoms. Today the sleepy little town at the banks of the Betwa river contains the ruins of the capital city that served as its political and cultural center. The once powerful capital of the kingdom known as Orchha or ‘hidden palace’ is now home to just over 9000 people. The city’s ruins stand high along the river banks, and tower over the surrounding farmland and forest. Rocky steps protrude along the river’s shoreline as people often gather to do their laundry and bath in the sections of the blocked river current, as they’ve done for centuries.
The town’s economy relies primarily on tourism, yet it’s far from being a tourism hot spot, which adds to its charm. At times it feels like few tourists are here and often you can be the only person taking pictures inside the massive landmarks. Getting to Orchha involves taking a relatively quick taxi ride from the nearest city Jhansi, which has a train station that connects it to India’s large cities to the north. Room and board in the town is quite simple unless you stay in the massive resort next to the cenotaphs. Regardless of where you sleep the entire town is walkable and very safe.
Orchha has plenty of small restaurants that preserve the culinary traditions of the former kingdom. As a predominantly Hindu town with a strong agricultural industry it offers a wide range of delicious vegetarian meals. Thali’s, plates containing multiple small dishes, are the perfect way to sample the various regional specialities. Like anywhere in the world, it’s best to eat where the locals eat. Unfortunately the restaurants mostly serve tourists so eating where visitors from other parts of India are eating is a wise bet.
Orchha was founded in the early 16th century by the Bundela Rajput chief, Rudra Pratap Singh after he became the states first king. Orchha was made his capital after he built the first structures of the magnificent Orchha Fort. Through successive attacks by the more powerful invading armies from the north, Orchha eventually became a tributary state to the Mughal empire, much like other kingdoms in Northern India.
As the kingdom grew in prosperity and power it constructed a fittingly lavish and defendable palace fort complex. Orchha Fort rose from a small island at the confluence of the Betwa and Jamni Rivers, creating a perfect natural defense. A stone bridge ran across the river and provided an easily defendable entry-way. The city developed along the western end of the fort. Inside the complex the kings built several structures, each a marvel of architectural design and engineering.
The Raja Mahal (King’s Palace) is the oldest palace in the complex. Until its abandonment in 1783 it was the primary residence of Orchha’s kings and queens. Inside the palace are beautifully decorated archways, ceilings, and carvings depicting Hindu deities and animals in great detail. The interior walls are covered with depictions of Lord Vishnu, the preserver god, and inlaid colorful tilework that stands out against the stonewalls.
Throughout the centuries the kingdom added buildings and temples within the complex. A large open space within the fort has been surrounded by these monuments. Now abandoned, the structures remain impressive in their scale and architectural beauty.
A small temple is located within the former palace grounds with an interesting legend associated with it. The legend states that the Hindu god Rama visited queen Ganesh Kumari in her dream, directing her to build him a temple. The queen was a follower of Rama and wanted to adorn a newly built temple outside the palace with a sacred idol of the god. After collecting the image from the city of Ayodhya, the birthplace of Rama, she returned and placed it in the small royal temple while the larger Chaturbuj Temple was being constructed. After the temple’s completion legend says that the idol wouldn’t budge when workers tried to move it. Thus making its final resting place inside the palace temple which became known as Ram Raja Temple. Today it is the only shrine in India where Rama is worshipped as the primary deity and continues to be an important pilgrimage site for Hindu’s.
Without the Rama idol Lord Vishnu became the principal deity of Chaturbhuj Temple, which was the largest temple in India and is still one of the tallest Hindu temples in the world. The massive pine-cone shaped towers dwarf every other structure in the town. Inside there are many open halls and a large interior chamber adorned with beautiful carvings of blooming lotuses.
Hiring a young guide, who was most likely one of the hired door keepers, I was able to climb high up into the facade, overlooking the city and balancing on centuries old stonework dozens of meters above the temple’s hard floor. What impressed me the most were the intricacies of the inner carvings and the incredible stone work; so much attention to detail went into the temple’s construction that even the razor thin edging of modern buildings pales in comparison.
Another popular legend explains the origins of the beautiful Jahangir Mahal, the massive three storied palace that is one of the most treasured of Orchha’s monuments. According to the tale, the palace was built exclusively for the Mughal emperor Jahangir’s one night stay in 1605. Whether this is true or not, the palace went on to serve larger purposes throughout the kingdoms history. The palace has over 200 chambers, each adorned with impressive carvings and at one time furnished with an unimaginable amount of art and furniture. The palace was constructed with rising and falling staircases on the inside of the walls, creating a geometric pattern that’s visually stunning and out of place all at the same time. Its gates and courtyards were built to allow war elephants and large armies inside to parade for their royal overlords.
The palace incorporates architectural designs from both the local Hindu Bundelas and the Muslim Mughals, representing the deep, and sometimes unsteady, partnership between the two. Large domes adorn the roof, while wide open rooms and terraces are strewn across the lower levels with painted depictions of elephants and other Hindu inspired art decorate the interior. The palace is now a preserved monument and symbol of the empire’s unity.
Along the Batwa River several massive chhatris (cenotaphs) stand. These buildings were built during the height of the empire as ceremonial grounds for the cremation of the kings and their nobility. Slightly dilapidated and crumbling, the buildings still contain a majestic mystique and tranquil respite especially when visited as the dawn light reflects over the river adjacent to them. Climbing up the stone steps and hanging out of one of the many open windows overlooking the water was one of my favorite moments from my visit.
The majority of these monuments were built when Orchha, the once influential city, was at its peak in influence and prosperity. As the kingdom grew, so did its power and ability to forge war. Soon a rebellion against the Mughals by Raja Jhujhar Singh led to the powerful Mughal imperial army led by emperor Shah Jahan to descend upon Orchha. The city could not weather the intense attacks and shortly fell to the more powerful army. WIth a new Raja put on the throne the city would continue to remain somewhat autonomous well after the Mughals left and the Marathas came in.
After the British Raj took over India, Orchha’s significance waned. Modern industry developed in India’s cities and many people left the crumbling former capital for the prospects of higher wages elsewhere. The once grand palaces and temples went into ruin until they came under preservation after Indian Independence in 1947.
Orchha’s wealth of historic ruins, palaces, and temples makes it an incredible place to spend several days in. It’s small, quiet, and peaceful which makes it the perfect escape from the chaotic day-to-day life of India’s larger and more popular cities. A lot of the town’s charm comes from the Betwa River.
My favorite spot while in Orchha was the Orchha Nature Reserve, a large protected forest within the 44 square kilometer island surrounded by the Betwa and Jamni rivers. A well kept hiking trail covers the length of the park, with plenty of wild animals and beautiful plants to keep you engaged.
Just off the trail I found a small ashram along the river. Accessible only by climbing along the large boulders that line the shoreline, the structure was decorated in Hindu symbols and tapestries. There was a leftover fire from the previous night still smoldering. Further downstream I found my own peaceful pool where I could have some much needed solitude. Wild peacocks walked by me as I bathed in the flowing waters admiring the abundance of nature around me. In a country notorious for being overpopulated and polluted this spot seemed out of place.
For outdoor enthusiasts the affordable admission into the park is a cheap price to pay for this type of unbridled natural surrounding. Although my travel partner and I were the only ones here, many people use the trails daily for mountain biking. The two rivers are also popular with river rafters, especially after the monsoon rains turn the sleepy rivers into raging rapids. Thrill seekers and history nerds would be delighted to visit the town during this time, sparing being caught in one of these notorious torrential downpours.
Orchha offers a unique experience for the few lucky people who take the time to visit. The once powerful kingdom is long gone, its grand bastions and temples stand in preserved partial ruin, yet these remnants keep the stories alive. The town, preserved for generations to come, is a wonderful expression of timeless charm. A type of charm one can only find in these lesser explored parts of the Indian Subcontinent.