“Benares is older than history, older than tradition, older even than legend, and looks twice as old as all of them put together.” – Mark Twain
Varanasi — known as Benares during Mark Twain’s time — is one of the oldest continually inhabited cities in the world, going back perhaps 5000 years. The city attracts people from all over India and the world to enter its holy river, to pray, to search for meaning, to live in austerity, and for some to die. It is said that those who are cremated by the banks of the Ganges River, the most sacred river in Hinduism, and have their ashes thrown into its waters, break the cycle of birth and rebirth and access the holy state of Moksha, entering heaven for eternity.
Hindu mythology states that Varanasi was founded by the god Shiva when he dropped the slain head of Brahma he obtained during battle. From the severed head of the deity the city arose. The earliest archaeological evidence is of early Aryan settlements going back to 2000BC.
Spirituality has always been at the heart of the city. Siddhartha Gautama is said to have performed his first sermon in nearby Sarnath, thus beginning the spread of Buddhism. For centuries the city has remained the center of theology and education for various empires. Influential figures gained fame and reputation here in Varanasi and the city’s culture influenced the subcontinent for a millenia.
The city witnessed a period of decline for three centuries after Muslim occupations. Temples were destroyed and the city’s importance as the center of culture and religion waned. Under the Mughals the city re-emerged as the more tolerant empire invested money and resources as well as built new temples for the Hindu’s. Varanasi, under the oversight of the Mughals became the princely state of Benares.
During British rule the city continued to prosper as the center of religion and culture for the Hindu majority. The British set up the new state of Varanasi with its capital of Ramnager. After British independence the state became part of modern Uttar Pradesh.
The Ganges
Flowing across the subcontinent like a holy banner the mighty Ganges river supports the lives of over 400 million people. Its waters are said to cleanse the living of their sins and bring the dead closer to the divine. The river originates at the distant peaks of the Himalayas, the center of the Hindu world, and continues for over two thousand kilometers until its begrimed un-oxygenated water spills out into the Bay of Bengal. Heavily polluted, the river is where sewers, trash, decaying animals, industrial waste, and decomposing bodies end up. The logic is that if the river is god it can repair itself. Luckily this way of thinking is starting to change as clean up efforts are sincerely being carried out by the government and NGOs. Regardless of its pollution levels, millions of people happily bathe in it and drink its waters.
Luckily you don’t have to swim in it to experience its un-worldly charm. Arranging a boat to take you on a day long trip down the river and back is easy; pretty much anywhere you stay will have hosts who have a special connection to a boat operator. The trick is getting the specifics regarding time, price, and the itinerary down before you leave.
I was lucky to have my “captain”, I don’t remember his name, I wish I did, but for the sake of putting a face to the man let’s call him “captain”. Captain made sure his small crew — a shy Japanese couple and my travel partner and I — had enough water and food to last the trip. The journey was long but unforgettable. We laid out candles on the deck and paddled up to the beautiful ceremony known as Ganga Aarti where Hindu priests offer fire to the Hindu deities, in a performance that’s soul penetrating. As touristy as this is, it’s deservingly one of the highlights of any trip to the city.
The entire experience was so exhilarating I decided to hire the captain again and took another quiet boat ride, this time at the crack of dawn, to experience the city waking up. Captain was one of those people so educated in the history of his hometown that hours would go by without any pause in his lecture. His passion for the city was palpable and as I disembarked his words stayed with me for days after. This is the type of boat tour you want in a city as complicated and intriguing as Varanasi.
As the sun rises, the morning mist hangs heavily over the river. People gather along its banks to pray and do their daily chores — wash dishes, laundry, brush their teeth. The holy-men are already meditating along the shores or plunging themselves into the cool water.
Every morning, aspiring young yogis join their guru’s for morning yoga sessions at their riverside ashrams. Their loud laughs can be heard reverberating over the sacred river. Something of a yogic tension release, the sonic boom created from hundreds of people practicing laughing yoga is incredibly powerful and intimidating. Each day I rose early to experience these powerful traditions. Morning became my time for inner retrospection, meditation, and quite exploration around the ageless shoreline steps.
The Ghats
Daily life in this timeless city steeped in religion is full of ritual and a complexity that few places in the world compare to. No other part of this city creates as many incredible memories and experiences as the series of ancient steps leading down into the Ganges river. Known as Ghats, these pathways lead many devotees into the holy waters of the Ganges to purify themselves in its sacred waters. Some serve as cremation sites for the deceased members of privileged families. After their bodies are burnt their ashes are discarded into the holy water, a process that according to the Hindu religion, stops the cycle of rebirth known as Saṃsāra.
Walking along the shoreline and ghats you will easily find the sights, the sounds, and the emotional stimulation to be overwhelming. Moving at a slow pace without any real destination in mind is an ideal way to get lost in the incredible day to day happenings taking place. The canvas of holy rituals, complex ceremonies, daily chores, bathing, swimming, yoga; the sounds of bells, the smell of incense, and an ever evolving array of people making use of the river in some way or another is otherworldly. Any visitor is completely mesmerized by the experience.
The western shores of the river are lined with the Ghats and many of the city’s most famous temples, which make up the majority of the city’s sacred sites. The central ghat and most lively is known as Dashashwamedh Ghat, a place crowded with the most tourists, touts, pilgrims, and people with various motives both good and bad. Even though it’s crowded and chaotic, Varanasi’s main ghat is worth seeing especially during the daily prayer and offering ceremony known as Ganga Aarti held at dusk. This ceremony attracts hundreds of devotees and tourists eager to capture the festivity on camera. A smaller, less touristy version of this beautiful event is held at the Kedar Ghat every evening at dusk.
At opposing ends of the banks are the Manikarnika and Harishchandra Ghats, the main burning ghats and the most auspicious cremation sites in India’s holiest city. The few cremation ghats have a significant place in Hindu mythology and therefore are considered the most auspicious place for your body to be burnt. Every year thousands of people make the journey to these ghats to cremate their loved ones. A laborious industry, the cremation ghats require thousands of kilograms of wood per body burnt.
While walking through it’s sometimes hard to avoid contact with a funeral and crowds of mourning loved ones stand in front of you, taking part in the most important ceremonies of their lives. Pictures are almost always strictly forbidden and the sight — the fire enveloping the body, sparks flying high in the air as flesh turns to ash, leaving behind only bones and charred wood — is one of the most beautiful yet haunting experiences I’ve ever had. The sounds — the crackle and hiss of the flames, the billowing smoke and the weeping families — all stay with you far after you leave. Your senses are overloaded as you witness this amazing event, watching the sacred observance of death in quiet respect.
Funeral ghats make up a small proportion of Varanasi’s holy river steps and many are peaceful hideaways full of meditating sadhus, bathers, and daily visitors. The southernmost main ghat is known as the Assi Ghat. Here the river Assi meets the Ganges and holds an important place in Hinduism. During the festival of Shivratri thousands of pilgrims come here to worship Shiva.
Just north of the Assi Ghat you come to the Tulsi Ghat, a popular ghat named after the 16th-century Hindu saint and poet Goswami Tulsidas. The ghat is the home of the Sankat Mochan Foundation — an NGO founded in 1982 for the cleanup and environmental protection of the Ganges river. Every year, usually in September, the festival Lolark Shasthi takes place. During the festival thousands of female devotees bathe in the waters off the ghat in honor of the god Surya, the Hindu sun god. The practice is said to bring fertility and the promise of a child. Another popular festival famously celebrated in the Tulsi Ghat is Nag Nathaiya. This festival is held to celebrate lord Krishna.
Beautiful buildings line the shores of the ganges and some ghats are home to majestic hotels and former royal domiciles. The most striking for me was the Chet Sing Ghat and palace, named after Raja Chet Singh’s beautiful red sandstone palace fort which resembles the mighty Mughal palatial forts of Varanasi’s neighboring cities.
Nearby is the 19th century Munshi Ghat, with its Darbhanga Palace is another example of the city’s stately riverside real estate. After changing ownership Darbhanga is now a popular five-star resort now known as Brijrama Palace.
Other ghats have less striking but historic buildings standing above their steps. Just a short walk north of the Dashashwamedh Ghat is the beautiful 17th century Man Mandir Ghat. Built by Raja Man Singh it once housed an observatory. Today it attracts many devout bathers and Sadhu’s.
The Temples
Varanasi has many Hindu temples, both large and small. Away from the ghats are the largest and most visited. Durga Temple is a large 18th century ochre stained temple dedicated to the goddess Durga. Many people refer to it as the ‘monkey temple’ because of its resident simian population. Just a short walk away is the modern Tulsi Manas Temple. Constructed in marble, this beautiful temple is said to have been constructed at the place where the poet Valmiki first wrote the orated ancient Hindu epic Ramayana. This poet is responsible for bringing the story to the masses and in 1964 the Tulsi Manas temple was constructed in his honor. The marble walls are engraved with a Hindi version of the classic tale.
Another famous temple in Varanasi is the Vishwanath Temple. It’s one of the twelve Jyotirlingas — the holiest temples dedicated to the god Shiva. Although the current structure was built in the late 1700’s, a temple has existed at this site since the 12th century. The temple has been destroyed several times since and is rebuilt following the return of a Hindu or more tolerant empire. Today the temple is widely regarded as one of the most sacred temples in Hinduism.
The Sadhu — the followers of Hinduism and Jainism who’ve relinquished worldly possessions and normal comforts to pursue a higher purpose and a spiritual existence. Living in Ashrams or temples and sometimes sleeping with animals on the street, they inhabit every romanticised view of Varanasi. They are in equal measure respected for their asceticism and godly pursuits and feared for their curses.
Varanasi is the spiritual home to these holy people. Sadhu’s come from all walks of life and gender. Some come from former high paid professional careers while others might come from worse circumstances. Whatever their backstory is they all seem to share a common purpose, which is to help the living get closer to God and to find their spiritual identity. Their saffron and white robes symbolize fire and purity and hinduism.
Some Sadhu’s diverge from this colorful aesthetic and wear black clothes and adorn themselves with human bones. The Aghori are Sadhu’s with an intense devotion to Shiva; often living near charnel grounds and cremation sites, they use cremation ash to adorn their bodies and often carry pieces of human bone or a human skull with them as a reminder of the impermanence of life and the value of embracing death. Aghori are considered a Vāmācāra sect of Hinduism which means the ‘Left Way’ or ‘Left Path’. Often their practices greatly diverge from orthodox hinduism and often this means breaking taboos with ease.
While walking alone through the ghats a Sadhu smiled at me with the most piercing eyes, our gazes locked, and we stared at each other smiling and finally laughing until I almost broke down crying. With a friendly gesture of good bye I went on my way, no words spoken, none were needed. The Sadhu did his part in bringing joy to my life and brought me into the present, beautiful moment.
The Food
Varanasi’s streets are crowded, narrow, and chaotic. The smell of food permeates every section, every corner and sidestreet. The inner streets of the city contain markets full of produce. The largest of which and one of the oldest is known as Godowlia Market. Located near the entrance of Vishwanath Temple the market has been running since history records began. Hidden amongst the old buildings are restaurants and food stalls that attract crowds of people, hungry from the day’s festivities. Most of the city’s most famous places to eat are located near the Assi Ghat, at the southern end of the ghats.
Street food, unsurprisingly, is huge here and the city is home to many unique dishes.
The sweet Malaiyo is a favorite local dish. The yellowish custard is scooped into a small clay cup and distributed to the hungry patrons waiting impatiently on the hectic street. For around 10 rupees the lite buttery cardamom infused dessert is a must try when in Varanasi. After you finish scarfing down the delicious Malaiyo, just like traditional chai cups, the clay bowls can be smashed to the ground.
In Varanasi’s street food culture there is a wide variety of savory snacks known as ‘chaat.’ A roadside hors d’oeuvre popular everywhere around the subcontinent, chaat is cheap, incredibly delicious, vegetarian, and beloved by locals. The must try versions I found in Varanasi are: Tikki Chaat, Tamatar chaat, and Katori Chaat.
North Indian street food wouldn’t be complete without Chola Samosa’s. The warm flaky samosas covered in a rich spicy gravy and smothered with sweet and spicy chutneys and yogurt is something any food lover will die for. All around Varanasi vendors sell these in mass. Generally the more people (Indians not foreigners) crowding around these stands the better the food is going to be.
A uniquely south asian working class tradition that has evolved into a Varanasi speciality is known as Banarasi Paan. The sweet and sometimes bitter betel leaf chew will make your head and taste-buds spin. Betel leaf and Areca nut have been mixed in South-Asia for centuries but in Varanasi it’s taken to another level. Many ingredients are added to create various flavors that are at times overwhelming yet utterly delicious. As a word of caution Areca nut is classified as a stimulant with health averse properties. Not all paan contains it and some contain a healthy amount and on occasion tobacco so exercise caution.
When the heat of the day creeps in and you’ve consumed an ulcer inducing amount of spicy chaat nothing is more satisfying than a thick Varanasi style Lassi. These yogurt drinks are incredibly popular and many famous stands serve them in the traditional clay bowls, topped with condiments ranging from pistachios to pomegranate. Blue Lassi and Pehlwaan ki Lassi were the most popular places as of 2015. These establishments will most likely be around for several generations.
When you get the urge to eat something other than Indian food there are several options. Momos are not originally from Varanasi and not even from India. The Tibetin/ Nepalese dumplings are a popular street food in Varanasi and worth indulging in. Brown Bread Bakery is a wonderful bakery that serves great cheeses as well. Popular among foreigners the place can be a good escape on days when street food has taken a toll on your stomach. As with many popular restaurants and businesses in India beware of copycats, places that have the same or similar name yet are incredibly different.
Other Places of Interest
Aside from temples, ghats, and street food Varanasi has plenty of other exciting places to visit. One of my favorites is the campus and surrounding area of Banaras Hindu University. Established in 1916 it’s regarded as one of the highest ranked universities in India. Taking a stroll around its tree lined campus is like walking through a forested park, with beautiful buildings and gardens surrounding you.
Ramnagar Fort & Museum
Across the Ganges river is the 17th century Ramnagar fort which has a wonderful museum. The fort was built by Raja Balwant Singh in 1750 as the primary palace and fort for the princely state of Benares. The forts towering red sandstone walls were built in the Mughal style. From the river the fort looms as a grand masterpiece fortification for a powerful kingdom. Today the current resident is the Maharaja of Varanasi Anant Narayan Singh, a powerful influencer in local politics and widely known celebrity.
Sarnath
Just a few kilometers north-east of Varanasi lies the small town of Sarnath. It is said that in the expansive deer park at the center of town Gautama Buddha taught his first disciples leading to the enlightenment of one named Kaundinya. This group, together with Gautama Buddha, traveled by foot through the plains of Northern India, spreading Buddhism and the teaching of Dhamma throughout the country. Today the town is one of the four main pilgrimage sites for Buddhists around the world, bringing on over a million followers each year.
Sarnath contains many pilgrimage sites, Buddhist and Jain temples, and museums. Each temple is from a different sect of Buddhism, from Theravada to Tebetan. For me visiting and learning about each temple was a highlight. Monks from various countries come to live and practice meditation in the temples and many hold retreats and ceremonies for visitors.
During the time of the Buddha the area was a city known as Isipatana. Inside the city’s ancient borders are the ruins of several monuments and structures from the time. The 44m Dhamek (Dharmarajika) Stupa is the monument most people equate with Sarnath. It’s said that here Gautama Buddha gave his first sermon to his five Brahmin disciples which began the spread of Buddhism. Today the stupa’s base is the only original section remaining yet people come from around the world to sit and meditate or walk around it.
In Closing
Looking back, my fondest memory of Varanasi was riding through the city streets on a motorbike, searching for contact solution for my travel partner with the son of our guesthouse’s owner. This simple task took us hours due to the fact that no shop happened to have contact solution in stock. Un-willing to give up we searched and searched, in what became a mission for us both. As we drove through the streets and alleys and entered shop after shop I got a glimpse few foreigners can get of the city. I was able to take part in people’s daily lives in its lesser visited sections while forging a bond with a local my age, together carrying out our search for basic amenities.
Hours later we finally found what we were looking for and carried on back to the small guest house near the river. Cows crowded the driveway as we swept in between their large bodies. Arriving home we looked at each other satisfied, smiling, and enjoying our adventure. This moment took me away from the sites, the tourists and pilgrims, and unveiled the real everyday Varanasi. A place much different from Mark Twain’s first impression yet remarkably unchanged in its traditions and values. The oldest city in the world perhaps, Varanasi continues to inspire and heal those who visit through its complex beauty and ancient traditions still thriving today.
“In religion, all other countries are paupers. India is the only millionaire.” – Mark Twain