Color adorns every corner of this desert city. From the bright reds and oranges of the sari’s worn by the local women, to the vivid blue paint covering the buildings surrounding the red sandstone fort standing high in its center. Upon a backdrop of crystal blue dessert sky everything seems to pop, forming an eye catching spectacle of color. Other senses are also stimulated no matter where you go in the city. Your ears are simultaneously treated to a barrage of auto clamor and traditional music that carries you off in a space unknown to westerners. A glimpse into the ancient kingdom of Marwar and heart of modern day Rajasthan.
Nestled in the expansive Thar desert, Jodhpur sits in the geographical center of the state of Rajasthan. Its complex history dates back to antiquity. Its prosperity and cultural significance is deeply rooted in the Moghul empires’ expansion throughout South Asia and the complex trade routes that enriched the Rajasthani kingdoms.
Jodhpur is full of charming places to stay, everything from the budget guest houses run by local families to luxurious five star palaces. I chose to stay in a small bed and breakfast owned by a family of people who practice Jainism. This ancient Indian religion adheres to several important principles that guide their way of life. ahiṃsā (non-violence), anekāntavāda (many-sidedness), aparigraha (non-attachment) and asceticism with devout followers taking ever stricter codes of conduct. These non violent tenets lead many followers to a strict vegan diet. My hosts were warm and full of charming hospitality which I found to be a characteristic of this small city.
I spent five days wandering around the narrow streets and ancient fortifications which are some of the best preserved defense structures in the world. It’s not just the architecture that leaves visitors in awe, the kind locals and delicious food also leave their everlasting mark. The plentiful street food and famous Rajasthani cuisine are some of the most respected in India. Carrying a hungry belly and inquisitive mind a visitor can become absorbed into the rich culture and history vibrating around the city. Like anywhere in the world, knowing a local is ideal for discovering the hidden gems of a place and getting to know its people. In Jodhpur the people really stand out above all the sites and food. Their warm smiles and laid back attitude make anyone visiting feel right at home.
Coincidently my visit lined up with the Hindu festival of Holi. Its celebrations signify the arrival of spring and a chance to celebrate love through covering anyone in your path with colorful powdered dye. Leading up to the festival, merchants and shops stock up on the powders which I purchased in bulk.
When the festivities began my travel partner and I put on our most ragged clothes and ventured into the chaotic streets below. While wandering through crowds of jubilant people, who were more than eager to douse us in holi powder, we were pulled into a residential open space where the buildings tenants were celebrating. Groups of kids started spraying us with water pistols and throwing powder bombs on us, leaving us bedazzled caricatures of Pablo Picasso’s ‘Girl Before a Mirror.’
Our entire day was filled with kind people eager to cover us with paint and feed us sweets. We danced in the streets with total strangers, throwing colorful powder at anything that moved. By the end we were exhausted, dirty, and deeply satisfied from the experience which was one of my favorite moments from my travels in India.
A Brief History
Like most of India it’s hard not to feel like you’re being transported back in time. The land of Rajasthan has maintained some sort of independence for centuries with subsequent empires being stalled at its peripheral frontier. The harsh mountainous desert terrain is not suitable for successful battle campaigns. Once the great forts and armies of Rajasthan were established there was little outside armies could do but form alliances and treaties.
The city of Jodhpur was founded in the 15th century by Rao Jodha, the chief of the Rathore clan who conquered the territory surrounding the city, setting up the kingdom of Marwar. The kingdom was later annexed by the Moghul Empire through a marriage alliance by the Moghul Emperor Akbar. Being descendants of the Rajputs, the Rathores of Jodhpur shared in the same zeal for science and war and their connection with the Moghul empire remained strong. Many famous Moghul generals came from Jodhpur as well as the mother of Emperor Shah Jahan, the famous builder of the Taj Mahal. This deep connection to the empire allowed a diverse range of cultural influences to come into the city and the surrounding territory.
During the British Raj, many areas in Rajasthan flourished economically, including Jodhpur. The British, knowing the disastrous consequences of conflict in the region, negotiated treaties with the Rajput states and kept the Rajput rulers in power. After Indian Independence Jodhpur became the second largest city in Rajasthan.
Today the city continues to flourish thanks to a strong textile industry and tourism. Many of the city’s textiles are prized throughout the world because of their intricate hand woven quality that are true works of art. Agricultural exports, especially the famous red chili powder hailing from the nearby village of Mathania, also drive the economy. There is a strong military presence here, given the wide open spaces ideal for training exercises and the close proximity to the Pakastani border.
When entering the old city of Jodhpur the first few things you notice are the majestic blue buildings, clustered at the base of one of India’s most beautiful palace forts, the Mehrangarh Fort. Everywhere you look the blue houses of the blue city stand amongst the dusty streets like buildings reflecting the indigo sky. Many of the buildings surrounding the fort are painted this way but the history of this tradition is fairly unknown, although the most common explanation is that it helps keep the buildings and streets below cooler. What is known is that people in the old section of the city have been painting their homes for centuries. Venturing through this blue labyrinth is a wonderful way to spend the day.
Jodhpur’s Cuisine
India has a strong food culture and Jodhpur is no exception. The city is full of restaurants and small vendors who sell various traditional and regional specialities. I enjoyed walking around the old city and beyond, sampling a mixture of street foods, snacks, and refreshing drinks. There are several small tea stalls called Chaiwalas tucked away in alleyways around the city. These small family run cafes serve piping hot chai tea full of spices. Early mornings are the best times to enjoy these spots as you can share the crowded spaces and warm morning exchanges with the local people as they get an early start to their day.
Thali’s are round platters of food containing small portions of different dishes that complement each other through a symbiosis of spicy, sweet, salty, sour, and bitter tastes. Thali platters are the best way to sample the flavors unique to each region of India and by sampling various Thali restaurants you form a good understanding of the region’s cuisine.
Dal baati is a dish that’s held at the heart of Rajasthani and Jodhpur families. It consists of a spicy daal (lentils) and delicious baati (wheat roles). A simple yet satisfying home style meal which can be found at most restaurants throughout the region.
Mirchi Vada is probably the most famous street food specialty in Jodhpur. They’re made by deep frying a large banana chili stuffed with a spicy mixture of potatoes and cauliflower covered in a flavorful chickpea flour batter.
As with anywhere while traveling a good rule of thumb is to eat when and where the locals do. By going at peak times and enduring the busy crowds you are ensured to have the freshest food.
Mehrangarh Fort
There are few fortifications in the world as impressive as the Mehrangarh Fort (sun fort). The colossal structure was built above a 100m cliff towering over the city. So intimidating is the structure that the English author Rudyard Kipling once famously called it, “the work of giants.”
Impenetrable sandstone walls guard a wide swath of palaces and courtyards, some of which date back to its foundation in 1459 by the founder of the city Rao Jodha. I found myself looking in wonder at the intricate carvings in the thick tan walls which once defended the extravagant wealth inside. Throughout its history it has never been besieged and has withstood countless political changes while maintaining its significance as the center of the kingdom. Newer palaces were added throughout several periods creating a diverse representation of Indian architectural styles within its walls.
Seven gates lead to the fort’s interior, the most famous being the Jayapol (victory gate), built by Maharaja Man Singh in honor of his successful military campaigns against neighboring armies. The First Gate is said to be where the first stones were laid in the forts construction. As you enter the gates musicians play loudly, creating a wonderfully unique entrance theme as you climb the dusty steps.
One strikingly small detail at the innermost gate, Loha Pol, are the 15 small red hands engraved in the stone. These are said to be the handprints of the wives of dead maharaja before they climbed above his funeral pyre, eternally bound to him through self immolation. This Hindu tradition is known as Sati and was practiced regularly in Rajasthan.
Continuing on you get to the main courtyard which is where the new kings were traditionally coronated. You can enter into the chambers surrounding the courtyard to get amazing views that once were reserved for the women of the court. From here it’s hard to miss the thousands of black kites circling the fort above. The world’s most abundant bird is protected here in India and the birds are regularly fed by the forts’ grounds keepers, a practice that’s centuries old.
As you get further into the fort more palace halls are accessible including the fort’s wonderful museum. The dancing hall was a particularly pleasing area of the palace with the hundreds of stained glass windows and a golden hand painted ceiling.
Museums are the perfect lens to view a place’s culture and history and the Mehrangarh Museum is no exception. Located deep inside the fort, the museum holds a precious collection of artifacts held within several preserved period rooms and galleries. A huge collection of armor and weapons as well as paintings, howdah carriages, and textiles are on display. Inside you can see the sword of Mughal Emperor Akbar and the Maharaja’s own golden howdah which he once used to ride on his elephant. The museum is particularly known for its palanquins, an adorned carriage used to transport royalty, particularly the ladies of the nobility.
Mehrangarh is the center of Jodhpur’s culture and tradition and along with its hindu temples is the starting point to the town’s many festivities. Chamunda Mata Temple is located on the southern end of the fort and is famous for its idol of Devi Chamunda Mataji brought to the temple in 1460 by Rao Jodha. In 2008 a large stampede resulted in hundreds of deaths. The cause is yet unknown but the temples’ narrow entranceway and lack of emergency exits is to blame for the catastrophe.
Flying Fox Jodhpur
Flying from one wall to another over centuries old embankments, reservoirs, and the archaeological monuments of the forts’ northern periphery was one of the most amazing experiences I’ve had in India. The Flying Fox of Jodhpur is a reputable adventure company that has created over a kilometer of zipline which traverses a huge section of the old fort.
The zipline takes you high above several landmarks including Chokelao Garden, Ranisar Lake, Rao Jodha Park, and finally over two more reservoir lakes before landing on a centuries old tower rising 30m above the Ranisar lake. A scene from the 2012 blockbuster The Dark Knight Rises was filmed here. The zipline costs around 2000 rp or around $30.
Jaswant Thada
In 1899 Maharaja Sardar Singh built the beautiful Jaswant Thada cenotaph in memory of his father, Maharaja Jaswant Singh II. The royal family of Marwar still cremates their deceased family members here. The cenotaph’s structure is composed primarily of marble and adorned with intricate carvings and marble patterns in the interior mausoleum.
Umaid Bhawan Palace
Driving up to one of the world’s largest residences you start to realize the immense wealth the Maharaja of Marwar had at their disposal. Built in the decade leading up to WWII the palace was said to be a way for the rulers to offer employment to the local population after a severe drought struck the region, causing widespread hunger and unemployment.
The palace was built on a parched rocky hill on the city’s outskirts. A railroad had to be constructed to move the sandstone and marble needed for its construction. Upon completion it had over 300 rooms, several large meeting halls, a library, swimming pools, and over 15 acres of garden space. The interior is lavishly decorated with beautiful murals and stone carvings.
Since the mid 20th century it has functioned as a hotel. There is a museum inside which houses several important artifacts from the royal family as well as the maharaja’s own private collection of classic cars.
Clock Tower And Sadar Market
Jodhpur has been a pivotal stop on the sub-continents trade routes for centuries. Halfway between Gujarat and Delhi the merchants used to use this market to sell their spices, silks, opium, and any other item you could imagine. The main entrance to the ancient Sadar Market is the famous Clock Tower which stands as a landmark. Surrounding the market and tower are food vendors selling a range of delicious street food. My favorite vendor was a popular omelette maker who, as of writing this in 2020, is still serving 1000’s of eggs per day.
Inside the market you’ll find vendors selling a wide range of products from textiles. jewelry, and food. As in most of Asia and the Middle East haggling is a must. While you simply will not walk out with a deal equivalent to the locals’ price, you may end up saving yourself half the original price offered. It’s always important to know what you want BEFORE going through the dance of exchanging prices. My standard is to always offer a little under half of what the vendor initially offers and working your way up from there until both parties are satisfied. Although you may feel morally inclined to hand over whatever amount of Rupees asked, it’s important to do what the locals do. Not only does this keep price inflation down for the local people who use the market themselves, it is a fun way to experience an age old practice in one of the oldest markets in India.
Mandore Gardens
Just a few kilometers away from bustling Jodhpur is the tiny town of Mandore. The town is small yet full of cultural landmarks that were once at the center of the kingdom of Marwar. Many of the temples and chattris are open to the public and often times you’ll be sharing the spaces with mischievous monkeys.
The Pratiharas of Mandore were an Indian dynasty that ruled most of Rajasthan between the 6th and 9th centuries. Not much is known about the ancient kingdom other than the names of their rulers and other small details retrieved from inscriptions.
In 1427, Mandore became the seat of the Rathore clan and the town served as the capital of the kingdom. It was during this time when many invasions threatened the stability of the kingdom. These bloody decades when king Rao Jodha managed to reconquire Mandore and stabilize his kingdom. In order to protect against further invasions Rao Jodha abandoned the ancient capital and shifting the center of his kingdom to the defendable Mehrangarh Fort.
Today not much is left of the ancient kingdom but scattered ruins and a few preserved archeological treasures, most contained within the Mandore Gardens. The remaining landmarks include temples, memorials, and most famously the Cenotaphs or chattris dedicated to the fallen Maharajas of Mandore.
Bishnoi Villages
Amongst the many sects of Hinduism are the Bishnois of Rajasthan. From Jodhpur you can organize a transport out to some of their villages where you can enjoy the laid back village life and get to meet the people who call this area home. The drive feels more like a safari as you take 4×4 jeeps over the rugged terrain, often encountering heaps of wildlife on the way. The tours bring income to many of the villages so it makes a wonderful detour from Jodhpur.
In Closing
It’s now evening and I’m sitting by the window in a crammed sleeper car on my way to Agra. Luggage is being placed above me by a family of three, going to visit their relatives. Inside a small bag they remove containers of food and fried snacks and gently offer me some. I graciously grabbed a handful and we began chatting about their hometown and how special it was for me, a visitor. Their reply reassured me that Jodhpur is far more special to them. I hardly scratched the surface of what Jodhpur has to offer and that made me feel incredibly satisfied. As the train pulled out into the moonlit desert I began contemplating the feeling of returning, with a hungry belly and inquisitive mind, eager for another adventure.