If you’re coming from one of California’s sprawling webs of urbanity you’ve probably ventured, or at least thought about venturing either north or south towards the dramatic coastal landscape known as Big Sur. Dauntingly remote yet jokingly accessible from California’s two largest metropolis’, its draw has been contagious for decades. If you’ve driven the serpentine stretch of highway 1 that hugs the precipitous oceanside cliffs and forested canyons then you’ve probably either fallen in love with it or come to loathingly equate it with legions of impatient day-trippers and unrelenting traffic jams that make a morning 405 commute seem expeditious. Regardless of its seasonal over popularity this peerlessly beautiful stretch of treasured coastline is still filled with life-changing moments and uniquely Californian vibes.
Big Sur has played a culturally significant role in American culture for decades, being a destination for a wealth of America’s most influential artists, writers, poets, musicians, and thinkers. Cultural revolutions were spawned here by creative minds left to wander the open hillsides and redwood forests. Today thousands of people visit each year and some say it has lost its charm and significance because of it. I disagree. This stretch of coast still inspires many who pack up and venture the 70 mile long stretch of coast snuggled between the Santa Lucia Mountains and the Pacific Ocean. Big Sur deserves careful planning, and a loose schedule; not sufficient for a day trip. Because to really understand Big Sur you have to get lost in its enchantingly slow pace which becomes like a lucid dream in a kaleidoscope of color cascading over the sea and hills.
Several hundred years ago, from the vantage point of a Spanish sailing vessel, Gasper de Portola vested the steep verdant terrain lacking any natural port “el grande sur” or Big South, thus the colloquial combination of Spanish and English so ingrained in Californian tradition became known as Big Sur. The first Spaniard to visit was Juan Cabrillo in 1542. Thousands of years prior Esselen, Ohlone, and Salinan tribes were the first inhabitants of this stretch of coast. The people of these tribes relied on the abundant marine life for their primary food source. The thick forests provided shelter from the intense winter storms that frequently batter the area. Remnants of this early history are still found in forms of arrowheads and stories passed down from generations to the few remaining descendents of the people who still call this coast home.
Timing is everything in Big Sur; avoiding the crowds, forest fires, violent winter rain squalls and their inevitable landslides and road closures; it is less about seasons and more about luck. This is made even worse by the popularity of camping and lack of other affordable accommodation. But if you time it right, avoiding the summer madness of bumper to bumper traffic and crowds of vacationers on summer break, you can get the original, isolated Big Sur experience and when this happens it’s a place unlike any other.
The so called edge of the world, as it often feels and is often typified in literature, is one of my favorite places to drive through, camp, hike, surf, and pretty much do anything outdoorsy. It’s bread and butter are its natural sights and manmade structures, all the more of a product of their harsh environment than anything.
My travel partner and I were coming from the south. The Big Sur coast starts to appear just north of the small town of San Simeon and its famous landmark Hearst Castle. The mansion and expansive property overlooks the vast Pacific ocean and rolling Central Californian hills, with opulent architecture and interior design fitting for a Hapsburg King. This was the dream project of the publishing tycoon William Randolph Hearst and his architect Julia Morgan. It was built between 1919 and 1947 and is today one of the most visited landmarks in California.
Continuing up the coast you get to the famous Piedras Blancas Elephant Seal Rookery. Here the massive marine mammals come to beach themselves, mate, and rest. From November to February the large males will battle it out for mating rights and from December to October the females give birth. There’s a large population all year-round with upwards of 10,000 animals on the San Simeon shoreline alone.
Further up the coast highway 1 tucks into the hillsides on steep cliffs winding around narrow gorges full of lush vegetation. Ragged Point is the first major vantage point for viewing the rugged expanse of coastline. As you continue this is where Big Sur’s beautiful hiking trails start, the most famous being the Salmon Creek trailhead. For hikers Salmon Creek is an incredible starting point that connects to a web of trails heading deep into the valleys and surrounding mountains with plenty of campsites available for those fit enough to bring in all their gear. Continuing further north you see more trailheads as you enter California’s southernmost redwood habitats. These giant trees rely on dense fog, growing taller and taller in order to take in the moisture from the thick low-lying clouds that often blankets the coast.
If you’re a surfer like me you’ll be well aware that Big Sur hosts several surf spots. Many of them are only accessible by boat and are plagued by protruding rocks and kelp groves. Sand Dollar Beach is the area’s most accessible surf break and largest beach. Although not the best break in the area it has decent surf all year round with the large winter swells often closing out the bay, forcing surfers to drive elsewhere in search of tucked away coves. This beach is amazing for viewing the sunsets or enjoying the tide pools.
The further north you go the more it starts to look like the forest moon of Endor from Star Wars. Near the tiny village of Lucia is the magical Limekiln State Park. Not just an incredible campground, the state park boasts some impressive redwood groves as well as the Limekiln Falls, a dramatic waterfall surrounded by dense forest. The park is named after the giant decrepit kilns once used to extract lime from the soil. These kilns are remnants of California’s rapid industrialization in the late 1800’s.
Limekiln was my favorite section of Big Sur to hike in. My travel partner and I found ourselves lost in the seclusion of the forest. The smell of campfires emanating from the nearby campsites mixed in with the fresh cedar and musky pine to create a characteristic smell that enchanted us throughout our time here. This culminated in a hike up to the waterfall where we soaked ourselves under the misty sunlight and calmly sat, enjoying this priceless moment in nature.
Continuing north you reach a large complex perched near natural springs known as the Esalen Institute. It was founded in 1962 by a team of human psychologists who wanted a research and retreat center to focus on the mind-body connection. Not without its own controversy it played a pivotal role in developing the human potential movement of the 60’s. Many famous writers, musicians, and intellectuals have taught at the institution including Aldous Huxley and Ken Kesey. Today it provides guests with many exclusive workshops, classes, and retreats for those who book their reservations way in advance.
As you wind around the coast the dramatic scenery demands several pit stops for photos. There are plenty of places along this stretch of road to pull over as you enter Julia Pfeiffer Burns State Park. The first major landmark as you continue north past the park is McWay Falls. Here the McWay creek abruptly ends on a 24m cliff suspended over a small horseshoe shaped beach. It is one of the only waterfalls in the United States that empties over the ocean. To add to the dramatic scene are the large caves carved out in the rocks below, tunneling the waves and creating explosions of water in front of the lush cliffside and cascading waterfall. This is one of my favorite parts of Big Sur and easily one of the most photogenic.
Ewoldsen trail is located across Highway 1 adjacent to McWay falls. The trail steadily climbs in elevation through thick old growth redwood groves, reaching another impressive waterfall, and a forested creekside until it reaches magnificent open vistas and breathtaking views of the pacific ocean. Unfortunately due to heavy rains and landslides it is sometimes closed for maintenance.
Further up the coast the landscape becomes lusher with more old growth redwood groves covering the canyons. The famous nonprofit arts center, bookstore, and performance hall named the Henry Miller Memorial Library can be seen as you wind up into the hillsides outside of Pfeiffer Big Sur State Park. The library is often closed during the off season but is one of Big Sur’s most important cultural landmarks having many small intimate performances and exhibitions by some of the world’s best musicians and artists.
Nepenthe in Greek means something along the lines of “that which chases away sorrow.” This restaurant towering over the beautiful coastline does its best to live up to its name. The current restaurant was built on property once owned by Orson Wells and Rita Hayworth. The restaurants menu is composed of dishes entirely sourced from California and as many local ingredients as possible. Between the views and the food Nepenthe is worth a visit.
Pfeiffer Big Sur State Park is for many the real Big Sur. With several campgrounds and hiking trails surrounding the Big Sur river there’s plenty to see and do here. The highlight for hikers is the Pfeiffer Falls and Valley View trails which are some of the most beautiful views of the Big Sur River gorge and old growth redwood groves.
Just a few hundred meters south of the Big Sur Ranger Station is the windy road leading to Pfeiffer Beach. This beach is known primarily for the natural keyhole formation carved into the large rock formation and it’s purple sand, created by weathering of Manganese garnet crystals. During the winter months as the sun sets in the west its rays permeate the archway as the powerful swells surge in through the keyhole creating a photographers dream setup of light and water at play.
As you come north out of the Pfeiffer Big Sur state park you come to Andrew Molera State Park, one of the most underdeveloped and often overlooked parks in the area. The park straddles the Big Sur River and contains beautiful campgrounds. The beach at the rivermouth of the Big Sur River is one of Big Sur’s most noted surf spots and can get really good when the winds cooperate.
As you go north you come to Point Sur State Historic Park and the historic Point Sur Lighthouse. The lighthouse was built in 1889 after a series of maritime wrecks on the point including the disastrous wreck of the USS Ventura. The point is also home to a protected marine ecological zone which features, like much of the Big Sur coast, an abundance of kelp forests and healthy reefs.
One of my favorite sights in Big Sur is the calla lily beach oasis, located in a small gorge where Doud Creek empties into the Pacific Ocean at Garrapata beach. Here in the winter tons of white lilies and other wildflowers bloom around the creek, creating a breathtaking scene of a beachside flower garden.
There is little argument that Bixby Creek Bridge is Big Sur’s most famous man-made landmark. Completed in 1932, it was once one of the largest bridges west of the Mississippi. The bridge is built on a curve bridging two sides of the steep Bixby creek valley. With the dramatic green hillsides and curved concrete features perched on the edge of the Pacific Ocean, it is one of the most photographed bridges in America.
In Closing
As the sun sets we returned to our campsite at Plaskett Creek Campground for another night under the bright stars and cool seabreeze that we’ve grown fond of. Our towering bonfire eventually turned into hot ember coals and we began boiling our farro grain and vegetable Tikka Masala. Cozying up to the campfire and enjoying a mug of hot mulled wine we decided to bundle up and head to the beach to take in the nocturnal performance of the violent seashore and wind whipping the low lying shrubs illuminated by a bright moon and dancing stars. We felt as if we alone were enjoying this peaceful moment, alone by the coast, at the edge of the world. Alone in each other’s company, yet unknowingly close to the dozens of other campers unaware of each others presence.
