Situated just a few hours south of India’s frenzied capital is the vast desert landscape of Rajasthan and its modern capital of Jaipur. A city known for its vibrant colors, ancient Hindu temples, and grand monuments that boast of the glorious past, chivalry, and valor of the Rajput kings and their armies. Also known as the ‘Pink City’ owing to the pink sandstone composition of its buildings, the charisma of this cultural jewel of India continues to lure travelers, history buffs, and researchers from different corners of the globe. With its array of monuments soaked in glory, opulence, and grandeur, Jaipur offers a spectacular journey through its rich past and beckons travelers to uncover its many secrets.
I had the fortune of visiting Jaipur for four days; a time period that’s just long enough to get a glimpse of the city’s day to day life as well as visit many of its marvelous landmarks. Because I visited the city in March I experienced perfect weather and relatively minor crowds just outside of tourisms shoulder season. It’s best to avoid the tourism boom of the dry winter season and relentless monsoon rains of the summer and visit the city and the region during the October/ November and March/April shoulder seasons.
Getting around Jaipur is pretty straightforward. Most people arrive either by plane or by train. Once in the city its central monuments are easily reached by foot, yet a rental car, taxi, or rickshaw are needed to venture out to the many forts, temples, and monuments located outside the modern city. Always discuss the price and agenda beforehand with your driver and agree to it before heading out. There are plenty of transportation options and if price is an issue it’s best to practice haggling. Once your transportation is worked out the city’s limitless array of monuments will keep you occupied for the duration of the visit.
History
Since the 12th century the area around Jaipur, in northeastern Rajasthan, has been home to several kingdoms and clans; probably starting with the Kachwaha clan of Rajputs who built their fort and settlement in the Aravalli Hills roughly 11 kilometers from the modern city center. This fort and settlement came to be known as Amer or Amber and continued to grow in wealth and political significance. The Rajputs were famously skilled warriors and politicians, forming alliances that would guarantee heavy financial returns for their participation. Their most significant alliance was formed between the growing Mughal Empire, and their influential emperor Akbar the Great, due to the city’s proximity to Delhi; a key strategic move for the Rajput’s defense.
Marriage alliances, open trade, and military conquest strengthened the bond between the Rajputs and the Mughuls who now recognized the Rajput rulers as Raja (monarchs). Some of India’s most famous Moghul generals: Bhagwant Das and Man Singh I, were Rajput nobility. The daughter of Raja Bharmal, Jodha Bai, was married to the Moghul emperor Akbar, later giving birth to the fourth emperor known as Jahangir – the future father of Moghul Emperor Shah Jahan, the famous builder of the Taj Mahal.
Several generations ruled Amer, amassing riches beyond belief and building the magnificent forts and palaces surrounding the Amer town. Protected by hills and insurmountable defenses the land was free from invaders. The Rajput rulers, with the help of their generals, continued to take in plunder from foreign military expeditions. Skill on the battlefield was not the only tool the Rajputs were famous for as they produced many prodigies in sciences and art; none more so than the young Raja Jai Singh II.
Jai Singh II became a famous scientist and was recognized as one of the most brilliant minds of the time. After researching the design of the great European cities he consulted a team of engineers, mathematicians, astronomers, and traditional hindu architects to develop a blueprint for a new capital city due to the limiting geographic constraints on the growing population of Amer. His closest confidant was the Brahmin scholar of Bengal Vidyadhar Bhattacharya, who was instrumental in much of the architectural planning. With close Moghul support and alliance that would guarantee the loyal support and backing of the empire, Jai Singh constructed his city. Jaipur, as it became known, was officially founded in 1727.
The new city began to form around several blocks, connected by wide tree lined streets, with the royal palace to the north and the astronomical observatory known as the Jantar Mahar in the center. High walls surrounded the new city and its bustling center. As the Moghul empire began to fall the rulers of Rajasthan looked to make a new alliance.
In 1818 Jaipur entered a subsidiary alliance with the British protectorate in India. These new states, with Jaipur at its center, would be known to the British as Rajputana. In 1876 Raja Ram Singh II received the Prince of Wales to the city and for the occasion ordered all buildings to be colored pink as a welcoming gift. To this day the color remains a requirement for all building facades in the historic city center. India gained it’s independence from Britain in 1947 and the states of Jaipur, Jodhpur, Jaisalmer, Bikaner and other smaller Rajpur territories were merged into the state of Rajasthan. Jaipur became the capital of Rajasthan, the largest state in India.
The Three Great Forts of Jaipur
As the seat of the Maharaja of Rajput, Amer grew to become a powerful and wealthy capital, in need of effective defensive batteries and fortifications capable of withstanding and quelling attacks from enemy invaders. To house these munitions and soldiers, and to protect the Raja and his governing bodies, three large palace forts were constructed over several centuries and eventually linked by massive walls stretching several kilometers over the rugged Aravalli Hills. Now the palace forts are Unesco Heritage Sites and some of the most visited monuments in India. For just a few hundred rupees (and several rupees less for Indian Nationals) you can enter the palaces and explore their incredible architecture and get lost in the unparalleled views over ancient Amer and modern Jaipur city.
Amer Fort and the Sheesh Mahal
Driving eleven kilometers from Jaipur on the Delhi Jaipur Highway the arid landscape gives way to one of India’s most revered palace fort complexes known as Amer fort. Its grandeosity is paralleled by the intricate beauty of its architecture and clever use of space and natural light; details that are characteristic of Moghul design.
During the 16th century the Amer ruler Raja Man Singh built the present day fort and its palace of mirrors known as the Sheesh Mahal. The area where it was built was once home to an earlier structure dating back to the 10th century. The Amer ruler built his kingdoms palace to rival any in the world in opulence and defensive capabilities. Every year thousands of visitors climb up its steep slopes, perspiring like runners in the hot sun, all to get a glimpse of the moghul architecture overlooking the dry landscape of ancient Amer.
The palaces entrance, known as the Suraj Pol (Sun Gate) overlooks Maota Lake, which still supplies people with water to this day. In the center is a saffron garden, whose first plantings are said to have been sowed in the 15th century. Elephants are often seen carrying tourists and trainers up the steep slopes of the palace’s embankments yet the majority are said to be mistreated by their handlers. The Indian government has considered banning elephant rides in the past yet the practice continues. If you insist on riding an elephant in India it’s best to do some research first and pick a reliable trainer who is vetted as a humane caretaker.
Four main courtyards containing palaces, gardens, and temples divide up the vast space inside the fort. The first courtyard contains the Sila Devi temple. It was built in the 17th century as a center of worship for the Hindu god Kali. Up until 1975 animal sacrifices, usually buffalo or goats, were made to appease the goddess and bring good fortune until the government banned them.
The second courtyard is home to the Diwan-i-Aam. It was a public audience hall used by the raja to entertain guests and dignitaries as well as entertain his subjects. It dates back to the 16th century and features beautiful carvings of elephant heads and vines on the interior with two rows of columns supporting the roof. The views from the Diwan-i-Aam of Maota lake and the moghul garden are stunning.
Inside the forts third courtyard lies the famous Sheesh Mahal, named after its thousands of convex mirrors adorning its ceilings and walls that take any amount of light and reflect it across the carved interior, simulating the stars of the night sky. The Sheesh mahal was built in the 16th century by King Man Singh in the 16th century during the inception of the Jaipur state. Since its first construction it’s gone through many renovations, yet remains close to the original design. The colors and intricate mirrored mosaics are visually stunning. Legend has it that the raja built the Sheesh Mahal so that his queen, who loved sleeping under the stars, did not have to sleep outside to enjoy the twinkling light of the night sky.
Jaigarh Fort
Sitting high above the Amer fort, perched on the Cheel ka Teela (Hill of Eagles) lies the Jaigarh Fort. The fort was built by Jai Singh II in 1726 as an extra defensive fortification for the Amer Fort. The fort spans three kilometers of the rugged Aravalli mountain ridge. It contains spectacular views of Amer fort and the surrounding countryside.
Thick red sandstone walls surrounding the fort’s interior contain several palace halls, a large lookout tower, and lush Persian gardens. An armory and museum are also located inside the fort displaying priceless relics of Amer as well as a wide array of weapons once used by the raja’s military during their famous conquests throughout India and its periphery.
The fort is best known for the Jaivana cannon which was once the world’s largest cannon on wheels during most of the early modern period. Its 50 ton, 6m long barrel is on display at the top of the forts walls. The canon could turn 360° and had a range of over 35 kilometers.
There are several ways to get to the fort. I had my rickshaw driver drop me off at the base of Amer fort and from Amer fort I used the steep stepped trail to hike up to Jaigarh Fort where I was picked up several hours later. Although this is far more difficult, especially in the intense heat, it allowed my to truly appreciate the scale of these defensive structures and forced me to take my time venturing through them.
Nahargarh Fort
Amer had three major forts forming a defensive ring around their capital. Much like the Amer and Jaigarh forts, the Nahargarh Fort was built along the edge of the Aravalli Hills. Its walls once connected it to Jaigarh and Amer Forts. The fort was built in the early 18th century by Maharaja Sawai Jai Singh serving not only as a defensive fortification above his city but as a retreat to find solace overlooking his kingdom and a base for hunting expeditions in the surrounding wilderness.
The forts name means the abode of tigers, referring to either the legend of the dead prince Rathore, Nahar Singh whose spirit is said to haunt the palace or, more realistically, the fact that the fort once housed several large bengal tigers. Regardless of the war-like name the fort never experienced any combat throughout its existence and remained primarily a summer retreat for the Maharajas. It did however serve as a hiding place for foreigners, primarily the British, during India’s war for independence in 1857.
The focal point of the fort is known as the Madhavendra Bhawan, or main palace. Its nine suites were built in the Indo-European style and are beautifully decorated with Rajput Mughal frescoes and antique furniture used during the 18th and 19th centuries. Like many palaces in India the stained glass windows are incredibly beautiful, especially when reflecting the sun’s light in colored patterns on the exquisite inside decor.
None of Jaipur’s palace forts can hold a candle to the view from Nahargarh fort. The entire city of Jaipur is laid out in front of you as you sit on the forts high walls. It’s easy to get lost daydreaming about what life was like for the Maharaja and his gentry.
City Palace Complex
The ancient city of Amer grew too quickly and seeing the need for a more modern center of government and commerce the Maharaja moved the capital and all it’s political facilities to Jaipur. The center of the new capital city became the expansive City Palace which until 1949 served as the administrative heart of Jaipur. Today the royal family of Jaipur still uses the city palace as their residence, with many buildings remaining inaccessible to the general public. Several historical monuments, gardens, temples, and museums make up the accessible portion of the palace complex and a visit to the pink city would not be complete without a day spent wandering through the area.
Three main gates: the Virendra Pol near Jantar Mantar, the Udai Pol near Jaleb chowk, and the Tripolia make up the complex’s entrances. These historic passages, with the exception of the Tripolia being used solely for the royal family and government, are beautifully designed monuments themselves.
Sarvato Bhadra (Diwan-e-Khas)
This square open hall was and continues to be used as a center of both royal and public festivities. At its corners are enclosed rooms used by the royal family for ceremonial purposes. In the past the main room was used as a private meeting hall for the Maharaja and his court. Today it’s not uncommon to find yourself in the middle of a wedding or celebration while visiting this area.
Chandra Mahal
At the center of the palace complex is the Chandra Mahal, the residence of the Maharaja of Jaipur. Its seven stories – seven being an auspicious number for the Maharaja – contain beautiful rooms and ornate hallways, exhibiting some of the finest examples of Moghul and Rajput design. Each floor has a different name and historical purpose with the top citadel being the most grandiose.
The first two floors, known as Pitam Niwas, consists of the palaces’ museum that holds an impressive collection of artifacts from Jaipur’s history. The third floor (Sukh Niwas) is home to the dining area of the royal family. The fourth floor (Sobha Niwas) or ‘Hall of Beauty’ is home to the majority of the Maharajas’ collection of precious works of art and royal memorabilia. Just above it is the Chavi Niwas which is famous for its collection of mirrors and intricate murals lining its walls. These upper stories are the most elegant and reserved of the Chandra Mahals corridors. The upper level (Mukut Mahal) is the crown palace and has the most distinguished views of the city. The only floor open to the public is the ground floor museum. However, the buildings exterior is still wonderfully photogenic and, along with the museum, worth a visit.
Hawa Mahal (Palace of Wind)
Immediately visible from the dusty streets as you approach the city palace is the five storied pink sandstone palace known as the Hawa Mahal. With its rustled facade resembling a wedding dress of pink ivory lace, it’s one of Rajasthan’s most iconic buildings, requiring visitors to pause at each of its 900 plus stained glass windows to take in the view of the old city’s busy streets below.
Sitting on the edge of Jaipur’s city palace, Hawa Mahal was built in 1799 for the women of Maharaja Sawai Pratap Singh’s court. The small stained glass windows allowed the royal residents to peer out on their subjects without being seen. The buildings angular design acts like a funnel for wind to flow, creating an early form of air conditioning and garnering it the name “palace of wind.”
The facade is the most photographed section of the building and to the surprise of many visitors is only the thickness of a small bedroom. Each section of the facade extends outwards forming tiny capsules and when viewed from afar the entire building resembles a giant beehive.
Jantar Mantar
Japipur’s founder, Sawai Jai Singh II, was a brilliant astronomer and one of the greatest advocates for science in India’s history. In the early 18th century his team of astronomers and engineers built nineteen architectural astronomical instruments including the world’s largest sundial.
The incredible monuments use Ptolemaic positional astronomy which allows observers to view the movements of the stars by the naked eye. By using the horizon-zenith, the equatorial, and the ecliptic systems, the coordinates of the moving celestial bodies could easily be calculated. The complex served not only the scientific community but also the religious and civic, acting as a meeting point for the most influential minds in Rajasthani society.
The Jantar Mantar is located just outside of the city palace, at the opposite end of the Hawa Mahal.
Jal Mahal (water palace)
Resting like a mirage in the middle of Man Sagar Lake is the Jal Mahal. It’s a fine example of Rajput architecture built by the Maharaja as a hunting lodge. The Five storied lodge became submerged after a drought forced the damming of the Dravyavati river. During the rainiest years only the top story is exposed, creating the illusion of a palace floating in a tranquil lake. Currently tourists are prohibited from visiting the structure, yet plans are in the works to convert the building into a restaurant or lodge.
Anokhi Museum of Handblock Printing
Hand Printed textiles have always been an important part of Rajastani art and this wonderful museum has been established to preserve these traditions. Once a private mansion, the museum now houses an impressive collection of artifacts and conducts regular workshops for visitors and school groups.
Albert Hall Museum
This museum is the oldest in Rajasthan, with an impressive collection of exhibits chronicling the rich history of ancient Amer and the surrounding Rajasthani kingdom. Originally built in 1887 as the town hall, it was later converted into a museum by Maharaja Madho Singh II. The museums extravagant architecture is also a highlight and several hours can be spent wandering its halls.
Temples
There are many renowned Hundu temples in Jaipur that are easily accessible in and around the pink city. Like most cities in India a vast majority of Jaipur’s residents identify as Hindu. The temples serve as centers of the community and are worth a visit.
Govind Devji Temple
This temple is easily accessible from the city palace and contains several important relics. It was built within the city palace complex and is dedicated to the Hindu god Krishna. Large numbers of visitors, mostly worshipers from the Vaishnava sect, come here to worship and as a visitor you can enjoy the temple and get lost in the excitement.
Galtaji Temple (monkey temple)
Roughly 10 kilometers from Jaipur city is the famous monkey temple of Galtaji. The series of temples have served as a holy pilgrimage site for Hindus since the 15th century. A natural spring releases sacred water from high above the gorge, flowing down-hill the water is collected in several tanks which are used by pilgrims as purification baths. As beautiful as these ancient baths are the highlight for many people, including myself, is the hike up the narrow crevasse to the highest temple building which offers incredible views of the city as well as containing several sacred artifacts itself.
Monkeys have been a fixture at this temple for centuries and today are what attracts many tourists. Locals often work as hireable guides who use the monkeys to entertain the tourists who eagerly hand over cash for these displays. The guides are not needed and just a firm ‘no thank you’ should be sufficient to discourage them from pushing their services on you.
Chhatris’ of ‘Gaitore’
This beautiful complex was the final resting place for many of Rajput’s kings. Luckily for those who come here it’s often not on tourists’ radar and overlooked by many locals as well, which means you will most likely be sharing this experience with a small number of people. The Chatris are fine examples of Rajput architecture, with incredible detail put into the carvings of the cenotaphs, still visible today.
Each Chatris (cenotaph) was built after a Rajput king was cremated. The large ceremonies must have been an incredible spectacle and most likely were huge events in ancient Amer. The most elegantly carved cenotaph is for king Sawai Jai Singh II. Its beautifully chiseled white marble peacocks and animal carvings symbolically adorn the structure.
In closing
My stay in Jaipur was limited to four full days of exploration and adventure. My rickshaw driver made sure I saw everything I could in the short period of time I was there. That being said, you could spend an entire week in Jaipur and barely scratch the surface. This city was the perfect introduction to a region of India that has beckoned me since I was a child. A land of desert palaces and dusty markets, conquering armies and majestic temples. Jaipur’s a city full of incredible treasures just waiting to be experienced.
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