My rude introduction to India and it’s capital started with a wonderful life lesson: if it sounds too good to be true, it probably is. When looking for a place to spend the first night my traveling partner and I found an incredibly affordable option with great reviews, awesome pictures, and free airport pickup. Needless to say none of this was true and as we entered the dilapidated hotel we were confronted with the reality of our naivety – rats scurrying under our feet, water leaking through the ceiling, a lush forest of mildew and mold; pillows moist and unwashed, and a toilet with an unhinged seat with stains on it. To add to the excitement, the “manager,” a 30-something bearded man with dreadlocks lacking any sense of kindness to his guests and especially the hotel workers, lashed out at us for not wanting to book his special “tour” of the city, an underhanded deal that would have rung us for every dime we had. We quickly grabbed our passports, humbled and a bit wiser, and set off to find a somewhat decent accommodation, which we did in the form of an old victorian hotel for just a few hundred rupees more a night.
Delhi is large, congested, hectic, and like India as a whole, unreasonably complex in every aspect. Visitors should do some research ahead of time and always be wary of scams. Anyone approaching you offering to help or lend services in anyway definitely cannot be trusted. A firm and confident “no thank you” is your most useful phrase. It’s also important not to lose your cool and be polite and respectful as tensions can escalate if someone feels insulted. That said, Delhi is a fairly safe city as long as certain universal precautions are met; a “New York State of Mind” is needed just like any other major metropolis.
The city faces several challenges many others in the developing world face: overcrowding, pollution, petty crime; yet for me the biggest thing to get used to was the in-your-face disparity between the haves and have-nots. Homelessness is rampant and poor to no sanitation for the tent communities means their inhabitants have to use the streets, river, or railroad tracks as places to defecate. This all happens within sight of some of Asia’s wealthiest people, driving insanely expensive cars, and living in gated suburban compounds. Unlike many other cities sharing the similar ordeals there seemed to be less of a geographic separation between these classes. Another shocking observation are the many street children begging or being used as pawns. Indians are charitable people and many criminals blatantly exploit that, often by using children and babies as tools to extract sympathy and ultimately more money from the wealthier passers by.
Issues aside, India is beautiful. The people, the cultures, the wildlife; it’s one of the most striking places I’ve ever been to. It’s capital shares that beauty in its incredible architecture, rich food – a blend of regional cuisines from all over India, and some of the most beautiful avian wildlife I’ve ever seen. The people are diverse, with a majority coming from other regions in India and the surrounding region. With a growing economy, highly educated workforce, and a famous tenacity towards entrepreneurship, it’s no surprise that the city is becoming one of the great cosmopolitan centers of Asia.
Unfortunately I only spent three days here but quickly became enthralled in its energy and complexity as well as its true beauty. I’ve since met several good friends who grew up here and one day I wish to explore the city further with their local insight, and most of all eating at the places which excite them the most. After all, food is the avenue towards discovering the heart of a culture and what better way to do that than with some familiar cheeky company.
A Brief History of Delhi
Indraprastha (“City of the God Indra”), the capital of the legendary Pandavas in the Indian epic Mahabharata, was said to be located here. According to the narrative the city would have existed around 1400 BC, although there are no known remains of this ancient city. Another legend is that the name “Delhi” came from Raja Dhilu, a king of the Mauryan Dynasty, who built a city in the southwest of the present day city and named it after himself. Regardless of these legends, around seven cities are said to have existed from 3000 BC to the 1st century AD, in the area between the Delhi Ridge, and the Yamuna River to the east, which is commonly referred to as the ‘Delhi Triangle.’
Settlements continued to be established here for centuries afterwards. It wasn’t until Anangpur, established in 1020AD by the Tomara dynasty, that a true city existed in the triangle. From then on several dynasties built marvelous urban settlements in the vicinity. The city of Lal Kot was founded by the Tomara dynasty, setting up the footprint for the new cities to come.
In the late medieval period waves of conquerors came and established their own dynasties and built their own incredible monuments in the area. in 1180AD the Chahamana kings of Ajmer, a region in the northwestern region of Rajasthan, conquered Lal Kot and renamed it Qila Rai Pithora. In 1192 the Chauhan king was defeated by Muhammad Ghori, which established the first Delhi Sultinate.
The first Sultan of Delhi, Qutb-ud-din Aybak, was a former slave who became a general after his prowess in the Second Battle of Tarain against the Chahamana forces. He was later intrusted as the governor of the new Indian territories, and eventually he became the first Sultan of Delhi; an incredible story to say the least. For over three centuries the sultans ruled Delhi and much of India, creating five dynasties and countless architectural marvels in the city.
During the 16th and 18th centuries the powerful Mughal Empire ruled most of the sub-continent. The Moghuls were a central asian dynasty claiming direct descent from both Genghis Khan and the central Asian ruler Timur. They forged an incredible empire and created some of India’s most cherished landmarks including the Taj Mahal in Agra. It was Emperor Shah Jahan (1628–1658) who built the seventh city of Delhi known as Shahjahanabad. Today it’s commonly referred to as Old Delhi and contains some of the city’s most famous landmarks like the Red Fort and Jama Masjid.
In the 18th and 19th centuries the powerful Hindu Maratha Empire sacked the city and finally overtook it, leading to the demise of the powerful Mughal Empire and creating the Maratha Empire. Although the Marathas gained control over a large portion of the Indian subcontinent, their forces couldn’t compete with a mighty threat from overseas, that through centuries of advancement in military technology through wars with other European powers, came with force to plunder and forever alter the sub-continent and the future capital of India.
In the early 19th century the powerful joint-stock company, known as the British East India Company, had control over much of the Indian Ocean spice trade, as well as controlling markets in China and Southeast Asia. Through treaties the company, which employed their own powerful military, created a hegemony in India which ultimately led to violations and further escalated into all out war between the British and Maratha Empire. It was during the Second Anglo-Maratha War (1803–1805) that Delhi was seized by the British, ending Indian rule of their proud city.
Throughout the 19th century British power expanded until a powerful rebellion grew throughout the country. Although the rebel forces had momentum and larger numbers they were outmatched by the-well equipped and better organized British East India forces. In response to this unsuccessful rebellion the British established the British Raj which would rule India until 1947.
It was during British rule that Delhi, and the new quarter of the city with its new government buildings and embassies, began to grow into the massive metropolis we know today; becoming the capital in 1911. The new city’s design was the brainchild of architect Sir Edwin Lutyens, with most buildings and roadways opening in 1931.
After a long and peaceful revolution India became independent in 1947 and Delhi became its capital. The city expanded along the Yamuna River and beyond, with urban expansion well past the borders of the Delhi Triangle area. After Pakistan separated from India massive amounts of refugees, mostly Hindu, flooded into the city. Rural farmers and immigrants from all over India and neighboring countries followed thanks to its growing economy. This has led to millions of people crowding into makeshift living quarters with poor to no sanitation; a logistical problem beyond belief. When India’s economy took off thanks to the service and tech industries traffic congestion became a new problem to tackle. As of 2019, the city has an urban population of around 17 million and a metro population of over 26 million, making it the largest metropolis in India.
Finding Your Way Around Delhi
India has the 3rd largest passenger rail network in the world, connecting every major and minor city in the country. There is no better way to see this beautiful land than taking a ride on one of its long distance express AC Chair Car, AC1 or AC2 sleeper cars. The trains are safe, relatively on time, and comfortable. Never however get 2nd or 3rd class non-reserved seats as you will surely be in for the most uncomfortable ride of your life, unless you really want to experience true, working class India – not an easy feat for even the most hardened traveler.
Delhi is served by five major train stations: New Delhi Railway Station – the main station in Delhi, Old Delhi Railway Station, Hazrat Nizamuddin Railway Station, Anand Vihar Terminal, and Delhi Sarai Rohilla Railway Station. As is common in most of India’s urban train stations thousands of people, of all walks of life, crowd into the halls, knotting their way into long lines waiting for tickets. From jain pilgrims to businessman, porters to school kids, beggars, tourists, and the occasional monkey; it seems any and everything makes its way into India’s train terminals and finding your way around can sometimes take a bit of patience.
Overinundated with traffic; Delhi’s roadways, once designed for a city smaller in size, were now severely overused. Commercial and pedestrian vehicles of all sizes share the roads with slow-moving bullock carts, pedicabs, bicycles, rickshaws, and the occasional cow. As a solution, the government built an efficient metro system. Consisting of eight color-coded regular lines serving 250 stations, linking the Delhi metro regions together. I found it to be very useful when traveling around the city, as most landmarks could easily be accessed using it. It’s also the safest and most environmentally friendly transportation option. It’s worth mentioning that in a country with a very noted sexual harassment problem, the first coach of every train is reserved for women only, making it less of a hassle as a woman traveler.
This being a tech hub in the modern world it of course has Uber and its Indian cousin Ola. They are really efficient and just as reliable and safe as anywhere else – just make sure to check the drivers ratings. Many people, including myself, chose to sometimes use the inexpensive rickshaws and auto rickshaws to get around, especially for short distances, when the intense heat made walking a burden on my health. Which leads me to the topic of walking. Delhi is not a very walkable city unless you’re in the old quarters of old delhi. The main consideration limiting the city’s walkability is the horrible pollution which ranks as some of the world’s worst.
Any serious complaints of rickshaw, taxi, or bus drivers should be reported to the Delhi Traffic Police via SMS – 56767, or the Delhi Traffic Police’s 24×7 Helpline – 1095.
My favorite sights
Limited on time and wanting to rest in preparation for the long trip through the rest of northern India I decided to only visit a few places this time. I unfortunately missed some famous landmarks like: the Qutub Minar – the 12th century minaret and UNESCO site, the large open aired equinoctial sundial Jantar Mantar, the 13th century Hauz Khas Complex, and the Raj Ghat.
Humayun’s Tomb
One of Delhi’s most famous historical landmarks and UNESCO World Heritage Sites is the grand tomb built for the Mohghul emperor Nasir-ud-Din Muḥammad, more commonly known as Humayun. He was the second emperor of the vast and powerful empire that stretched from Afghanistan, Pakistan, Northern India, and Bangladesh. Upon his death in 1556 Humayun’s wife ordered a grand tomb to be built in his honor. The famous Persian architect Mirak Mirza Ghiyas is said to have designed and built the tomb in around 1570.
The tomb became the first Moghul grand mausoleum. It’s design utilizes red sandstone and white marble and is reminiscent of many other Indo-Islamic structures built during the Moghul dynasty. It’s structure was said to have inspired major architectural innovations during this time, and was used as an important architectural inspiration for many famous mausoleums built later on. These design traits culminated in the great Taj Mahal, one of the worlds greatest architectural wonders.
As you enter the site the first thing you notice are the four quadrant gardens – known as Char Bagh – representing the Quranic concept of paradise. Centuries old gateways and pavilions arch over the entranceways as you walk upon the ancient structure. It’s octagonal shape is capped by a 42.5m high double dome clad covered in marble. The dome’s interior is covered in glazed ceramic tiles while the intricate windows display beautiful stone latticework. Throughout the centuries more buildings were built in the vicinity making it the densest grouping of medieval Islamic buildings in India. People from all over the world come in droves so get here early to avoid the crowds.
Tomb and mosque of Isa Khan
Located on the western entrance to the tomb complex is one of several other important structures existing within walking distance of the tomb. The tomb and mosque of Isa Khan is another important architectural marvel that is worth visiting. Built twenty years earlier, it served as a tomb for the Afghan noble Isa Khan Niyazi, who fought against the Mughals. Later it became the burial place for the entire family of Isa Khan. Because of this, the tomb is a sacred monument for the former rulers of the Suri Dynasty. The octagonal tomb and surrounding gardens look strikingly similar to the tombs in the Lodi gardens.
Nila Gumbad (Blue Dome)
Although historians are unsure who the tomb was built for its plaster and rubble structure is one of the oldest and most visited monuments in Humayun’s Tomb Complex. The mausoleum stands elegantly separated from the other buildings and surrounded by gardens. It was once covered in blue, green and white tiles but now only the north facade has significant tile decorations remaining. Its hemispherical dome was once covered with bright turquoise tiles, giving it its name the blue Dome.
Red Fort
Opulence and imperial power coruscate through the high walls of the great palace fort of the Mughal Emperor Shah Jahan. The grand sandstone structure was built as a symbolic center of power for the new capital Shahjahanabad. The palace has since served as the main residence of the emperors of the Mughal dynasty for nearly two centuries. It’s massive red sandstone walls surround the palace and the already existing Salimgarh fort, built by Islam Shah Suri in 1546. These structures together form the Red Fort Complex, and are one of Delhi’s most visited UNESCO World Heritage Sites.
The fort has been plundered, invaded, and sacked on several occasions throughout its history. During the Persian ruler Nadir Shah’s brutal invasion of the Mughal Empire in 1747 the fort was captured and many of its treasures were taken. The marble structures which adorned the interior of the fort were largely destroyed by the British after the unsuccessful Revolt of 1857. The British, ending the long Moghul rule of India, put it’s last emperor on trial in the fort before sending him off to exile. Today the fort is home to India’s Independence Day Celebration in which the Prime Minister hoists the national flag at the main gate before giving impassioned speeches which are broadcasted throughout the country.
Like most Moghul buildings the fort has an octagonal structure with 255 acres and 2.41 kilometres of defensive walls rising up between 18 and 33 meters high. It’s large bastions and turrets overlook the city surrounding it. Inside the grounds are full of monuments, requiring hours to visit. Each structure showcases the empires use of Persian, European and Indian art and architectural design, glorifying the rich multi-national aesthetics used by the empires elite.
Visitors generally enter through The Lahori Gate, the main entrance, leading through the domed covered bazaar (Chatta Chowk) and its dozens of merchants selling over priced items to tourists. The Delhi Gate is the southern public entrance and is very similar in appearance to the Lahori Gate.
Once inside the fort there are several buildings that have either survived or have been reconstructed throughout the years following the British and Persians. The first main building most people come to once inside is the large inner audience hall known as Diwan-i-Aam. Originally built for public audiences, it features rich white stucco with engraved arches. In the rear stands the marble balcony where the emperor addressed his audiences.
Further inside is the marbled private audience hall Diwan-i-Khas, with its wooden peacock throne, poetic inscriptions, and smooth facade. The oldest structure is the step well or Baoli; thought to predate the fort itself and surviving every invasion. Once serving as a prison, it’s old steps reak of brutal military history and imperial justice.
I found the most beautiful structures to be the pearl mosque (Moti Masjid) and the Life-Bestowing Garden (Hayat Bakhsh Bagh). The former was built in the mid 17th century as the private mosque for the sixth Moghul emperor Aurangzeb. Its white marble facade and Moghul architecture is stunning. The Life-Bestowing Garden is another great place to walk around. Although much of the garden and reservoir is unused its architecture is beautiful, highlighted by the red sandstone pavilion Zafar Mahal sitting in the middle and the white Sawan/Bhadon pavilions behind it. It’s fun to try and visualize the days when the reservoir was full and the pavilions stood like islands surrounded by calm waters and lush gardens.
Old Delhi
Looking out from my hotel patio during my first 24 hours in India was a treat for the senses. This was Old Delhi, the original walled city of Shahjahanabad, built to house the subjects of a vast empire. Even today its crowded streets create a sense of ineffable chaos yet there remains order in the madness, an order hard for westerners to grasp at first sight. Once filled with royal and aristocrat traditional havelis mansions, only a few of these glamorous buildings remain.
Main street (Chandni Chowk) contains most of the larger stores and hotels and runs from the Red Fort to grand Fatehpuri Masjid mosque. Everything else exists in a web of small streets and alleys, crowded to almost unimaginable levels with cars, motorbikes, rickshaws, pushcarts, merchants, street vendors, street performers, beggars, cripples, holymen, tourists, and almost any other character you could imagine. Oh, and don’t forget the cows!
Old Town’s Cuisine
Old town is famous for its monuments like the Old Delhi Railway station, Jama Masjid, Fatehpuri Masjid, and Lal Mandir. These structures are a must see in my opinion. But once you’ve taken in the sights and your stomach is ready for excitement, then Old Delhi’s food and especially street food is where the real treat lies. Not known for its breakfasts, Delhi’s street vendors and restaurants generally open from lunch on. As the former Moghul capital it attracted flavors from all corners of the empire which extend far beyond modern India’s borders. Many venders sell Delhi’s famous tangy and spicy snacks known as chaat.
Markets abound in Old Delhi, including Asia’s largest spice market Khari Baoli. Here you can find any of the hundreds of spice varieties used in Indian cooking. Markets and street food are only a small part of Old Towns historic food scene. Many restaurants have catered to customers for centuries and developed into national icons. You can find the best of any Indian style of cooking here from Vegetarian, Jain, Halal, International cuisine, and modern fusion. My favorite treat were the deep-fried parathas stuffed with a menagerie of fresh and savory ingredients all for ridiculously cheap.
As with any eating establishment in an unfamiliar place, eat where and when the locals eat and look for crowds of happy customers. The empty restaurants no matter what their yelp ratings should be avoided or visited at another time of day.
Jama Masjid
Few structures outside of the Taj Mahal conjure up so many visions of the old Moghul empire. The World-reflecting Mosque, as its full name Masjid e Jahan Numa is translated to, is one of the most famous buildings in India and also one of its largest mosques. It was built in 1656 by Mughal Emperor Shah Jahan and became one of the most used mosque’s in India, surviving sieges and barely escaping destruction by the British who, originally wanting to send a message to the people of the city after their revolt, spared it in response to widespread protest and threat of future hostilities. It’s courtyard can contain over 25,000 people, often reaching full capacity during Ramadan and especially during the breaking of the feast when thousands come to enjoy the numerous food stalls set up for the occasion.
Architecturally it’s a work of art. With two red sandstone minarets with marble strips of white marble towering 40 meters and three large domes in the center, it calls to future Mughul designs such as the Taj Mahal. Entrance into the mosque is allowed during certain hours and once inside it’s fun to walk around observing the architecture and people watch.
Lodi Garden
Who doesn’t enjoy strolling around 90 acres of 15th century ruins of tombs. Lodi gardens are one of Delhi’s most cherished areas. Locals come here in huge numbers to walk, exercise, and enjoy the natural scenery surrounded by treasured historical landmarks. In short, its the perfect date spot.
Several tombs and old buildings are scattered within the park, with plenty of tall trees and grass providing shade and soft ground for picnics. The tombs span three dynasties: Mohammed Shah’s Tomb of the Sayyid dynasty, is the oldest. Built in 1444, it’s one of the last remaining structures from this period and one of the best preserved. It’s weathered walls and octagonal chamber reflect its long history. Inside are the graves of Mohammed Shaw and his family as well as beautiful inscriptions of the shahada and colorful plasterwork on the domed ceiling.
The Tomb of Sikandar Lodi, built during the final years of the Lodi dynasty, was built for one of the most significant rulers in Indian history. Built by his son and last Lodi sultan Ibrahim Lodi in 1517, contains another octagonal tomb, similar to Shah’s tomb in design. The interior is covered with beautiful ceramic tiles, laid out in colorful patterns.
Further into the park you get to the Shisha Gumbad, literally meaning “The glass dome.” It was built in 1489 and said to hold the grave of the first Lodi emperor Bahlol. The building has a square layout with octogonal minarets on its corners with striking blue bands of tiles traversing its exterior. The building seamlessly changes from a square base into a circular ceiling and characteristic dome.
At last you reach the Bara Gumbad, a beautiful Lodi dynasty mosque and pavilion that towers over the gardens. There are no graves here which suggests it served a different purpose for the emperor, possibly ceremonial. Rising 27m from the ground, the main pavilion is an impressive monument. Both the pavilion and mosque contain incredibly detailed carvings on their walls and archways, making the visitor get lost in the small details carved centuries ago.
There are several smaller buildings and an old stone bridge. The park was once a small town on the outskirts of the city but was converted into a garden after the British Raj vacated the villagers. Today it can be enjoyed by anyone and attracts a large number of locals and visitors alike.
Akshardham Temple
Most people think of Hindu temples as historical monuments, with rich histories and weathered stonework, but modern temples, just like mosques and cathedrals exist. In 2005, just east of downtown, a short walk from the Akshardham station on Delhi’s Metro Blue Line is the incredible modern goliath Akshardham Temple. Over 10,000 volunteer artisans labored endlessly to create this architectural masterpiece. Borrowing designs from many of Indias and foreign temples like Angkor Wat the laborers carved into 6,000 tons of pink Rajasthani sandstone. The final product is a massive building with incredibly detailed images of timeless hindu epics and traditional figures. For a small price anyone can visit the temple as long as they’re following the dress code. Photos, unfortunately, are not allowed but you can purchase them once inside.
India Gate
Standing 42 meters in the center of (the large green space) is India Gate, a memorial built in 1931 in dedication to the estimated 70,000 Indian Army soldiers who died during World War I. It’s a poignant reminder of those who died and sacrificed their lives; at a time when not just Indian nationals but Pakastanis and Bangladeshis fought alongside each other, way before their political separation. Today the Gate stands in the center of the ceremonial boulevard in central New Delhi, surrounded by federal buildings and landmarks.
National Museum
Since 1949 the National Museum has held an expansive collection of Indian art and artifacts from prehistoric utensils and carvings to modern works of art. A visit is highly recommended to anyone interested in the diverse and influential world of Indian art. The galleries themselves cover many floors chronicling the waves of artistic and cultural revolutions as well as religious and ceremonial depictions from India’s diverse religions. The museum is close to the metro stations Central Secretariat and Udyog Bhawan.
Journeying onward
As my travel companion and I boarded our train towards Rajasthan we couldn’t help but chuckle at our blunder with booking such a cheap accommodation and trusting it to be legit. From this point on, with our guard up and viridity repressed, we looked forward to our upcoming journeys throughout this vast and diverse country. Delhi was a beautiful city, with so much history and culture, amazing food, and an intricate society with a blend of all types of people with varying personalities and intentions, all doing their best to survive in the evolving capital of one of the worlds fastest growing economies and most ancient societies.