“The City of Angels,” known in Thailand as Krung Thep, is a crowded metropolis built on the swampy shores of the Chao Phraya River. Once a small trading post for a mighty kingdom, it is now one of the largest and fastest growing cities in the world. Politically divided, polarizing, loud, colorful, chaotic, exclusive yet embracing, and full of equal parts spiritual divinity and exuberant hedonism; there is nowhere like it on earth. I came here to join my then life partner in her quest to discover her roots and learn more about the deep spirituality she grew up with. Throughout my year here it slowly became my playground, my breadbasket, a place of healing and spiritual growth, and ultimately my beloved home: Bangkok.
The Demographics of Bangkok
As of 2019 over 8 million people call Bangkok their permanent home while closer to 15 million work inside the city, many commuting from the suburbs and surrounding villages. Today the city is full of young people, many from the surrounding countryside, eager to become successful or just find a better life. After many years of serious growth the birth rate is slowing down, yet immigration remains high.
Although Thailand is an ethnically homogeneous country, its capital is home to a growing number of immigrants and expatriates making it feel very cosmopolitan. Most of these immigrants are from other Asian countries; China, Burma, and Japan accounting for most. Many communities from South Asia, the Middle East, and Africa have also made the city home. These communities are concentrated in neighborhoods throughout the city, creating little pockets of cultural enclaves that have their own unique charm and community.
People from the southern regions of China have been settling in Thailand for centuries, especially during the Ayutthaya period. Chinese descent is claimed by a large portion of the country including many royal and aristocratic families. The most recent and most influential waves of immigrants came in the 19th and early 20th centuries, establishing small businesses, assimilating into Thai society, taking Thai names, and adopting the Thai culture, language, and customs. Eventually Thailand became home to the largest population of Chinese outside of China.
City Life for Foreigners
Like most capital cities it’s easy to have a good time and earn a decent living here. Jobs are plentiful and for foreigners it generally involves business, engineering, or good ol’ reliable English teaching. Landing a teaching job normally requires native proficiency in the language you’re teaching, a college degree, and dependable references. Once placed into a job your company or school will assist you in getting a work VISA. Without this you must exit the country every few months, which in reality is pretty easy thanks to the close proximity to other nations.
Thailand is a safe country and so is its capital. Traffic related causes of injury and death are however common due to congestion, poor respect for traffic laws, and the common motorbike taxis propensity to maneuver through traffic with reckless abandon. Thailand does however have organized crime and these folks should be avoided. Luckily if you steer aware from drugs and prostitution, which is advisable anywhere in the world, then you will most likely never encounter them. As mentioned before social unrest does happen and large protests should be avoided.
Socializing in this city is easy as people are kind and often gregarious. Finding your group of friends can be done through joining clubs, sport teams, or just mingling at work and in town. Having locals as friends is also key to learning the language. By learning the language, which is a challenge to pronounce and grammatically moderately difficult for native English speakers, you open doors to a happy social life and will gain priceless experiences.
Finding housing can be a lot of work. As plentiful as apartments and condos are, it’s sometimes difficult for foreigners to not get ripped off and by not knowing Thai it’s even more challenging to secure a deal on your own. With is bit of patience, getting to know some locals, and improving your ability to sift through red tape you can score amazing pads which will be infinitely cheaper and more luxurious than anything you find in the west and elsewhere in Asia.
Because of the rapid expansion, blocks of multi story mixed commercial and residential use buildings have become the normal living situation for locals. Narrow upstair units are inhabited by large numbers of people, normally families, as the downstairs units tend to be used for commercial purposes, generally restaurants and small shops. Sometimes only motorbikes can get through the small alleys serving these buildings. The cramped environment can feel claustrophobic yet the sense of community is incredible and visiting these neighborhood blocks can be exciting, especially if you know people living here.
High rise real estate is booming in the city. Luxury condos are being built around the entirety of the metro area, especially around the MRT and BTS stations where an easy commute is used as a selling point. As of 2019 there hasn’t been any stopping this building boom, yet it’s hard to imagine this continuing forever. Many foreigners and wealthy Thais live in these ultra modern skyscrapers. Each is full of commercial space as well as restaurants and even grocery stores. High society living, abbreviated High-So, is an English loan word used to describe the trendy way of life many young Thais aspire to; living high in the clouds in a nice apartment, driving a nice car, and spending most of your time in an air-conditioned environment.
History
Ayutthaya, a small city just about 80 kilometers north of Bangkok, was once one of the largest and most powerful cities in Asia. From the 14th to the early 18th century, Ayutthaya was the capital of the mighty kingdom bearing its name. Open trade with foreign nations allowed vast trade networks to be forged and small cities and trade posts sprang up along these routes. The mighty Chao Phraya River, which Ayutthaya was situated, was home to many of these settlements. In the 15th century, during the height of the kingdoms prosperity, a small village on the banks of the river, just south of the capital, began to grow.
In the 15th century a waterway was constructed through the small town, allowing ships easy access to its harbor and a shortcut up river towards Ayutthaya. During the reign of King Narai in the mid 17th century, foreign trade, especially with the west increased substantially. The French, seaking control over the strategic town, built a large garrison on the eastern bank of the river. As French power and influence increased so did resentment which culminated in a violent uprising leading the expulsion of the French and the execution of King Narai, leading to closer economic and military ties with eastern powers like China and Japan.
Throughout the Kingdoms history peripheral wars were fought and invasions crushed until the last Burmese invasion led to a 14 month siege and the ultimate destruction of Ayutthaya. With the capital in ruins, its treasures looted, and art all but destroyed, the kingdom fell. The Burmese held the former kingdom for only a few months before abandoning it, leading to a power vacuum. A successful general named Phraya Tak successfully unified the fallen kingdom, moving its capital to the tiny town of Thonburi, across the river from the small town that would become modern Bangkok. King Taksin, as he became known, unified the kingdom and increased trade with foreign powers. During his reign he built canals and fortifications in and around Bangkok. Towards the end of his life insanity took a toll on his judgement, leading to a coup d’etat.
King Taksin was replaced by General Chao Phraya Chakri, who became known as Rama I, beginning the reign of the Chakri dynasty which continues to rule Thailand to this day. Rama I moved the capital to the strategic and ethnically Chinese eastern bank known as Rattanakosin. The city continued to expand, past its defensive parameters and network of moats. Royal palaces and temples were built; oriented in a way resembling old Ayutthaya. Life evolved around the river and canals and most of the city’s residents lived on or near the shores, often in homes elevated on stilts.
Western influence came swiftly, fostered by the pro-western and development oriented mind of King Rama IV. Steam engines, roads, and railways were built, modernizing the city’s infrastructure. Social reforms such as the abolishment of slavery and the long existing feudal system were carried out. Electricity, telegraphs, printing presses, western dress, and western ideas entered the capital and spread to the surrounding regions. The swampy shores of the river and canals were filled in, allowing the construction of modern buildings. As the city’s infrastructure developed its boundaries pushed further into the peripheral farm fields.
Rapid growth and expansion increased during the 20th century with ambitious projects that would further move Bangkok closer towards becoming the alpha global city it is today. The Memorial Bridge was one of the first new projects that would modernize the city’s transportation network, connecting Thonburi to Bangkok. Don Mueang Airport was officially opened as an air force base in 1914 and commercial flights beginning in 1924, making it the oldest airport in Asia and one of the oldest in the world.
20th Century global conflict largely spared Thailand. It remained neutral during the war until the Japanese invaded. The Thais, traditionally more aligned towards Eastern powers, let the Japanese military enter with little resistance. In response to Thailand’s alliance with Japan and the permitted use of Bangkok as a staging area and base of operations for the Japanese military, the Royal Air Force and United States Air Force bombed the city on several occasions. Damage was not severe, especially when compared to other cities in Asia and Europe. Flooding during the war caused more damage than any armed conflicts. When the war ended Thailand transitioned into a post-war economy rather quickly and economic growth soon followed.
US investment coupled with Bangkok’s status as an R&R destination for GIs fighting in Vietnam caused the economy to boom; income disparity and the sex trade also grew during this period, creating an image of Bangkok that, to this day, is hard to erase. After the Vietnam war many US companies and investors left leaving a need for investment and a large workforce. With their own economy experiencing massive growth, Japanese businesses saw their opportunity and took the lead for export oriented business which fueled Bangkok’s financial market, making it one of the fastest growing cities in the world. Seeing incredible opportunity, millions of people from rural Thailand and other nations immigrated into the city to create businesses. Some of the countries largest corporations were started by these immigrants and today Bangkok is a diverse city with a rich entrepreneurial spirit.
Red Shirt Yellow Shirt
I’ve seen many demonstrations in my life, all have shared some level of violence and intensity, with angry youths escalating tensions and taking charge; yet in Bangkok many were over 50 years of age. Adorable grandmothers, handing out fruit, water, and candy to everyone, waving flags and chanting, with warm smiles on their faces; how could this be? Thailand’s an endearing country and the people are both sweet and extremely passionate about their beliefs and national identity. Even though violence sprang up on several occasions, the home camps of both sides were filled with a ridiculous amount of food stalls, vendors, and family activities making it easy to confuse it with a summer carnival. Thai comforts aside, the message of these gatherings was simple: the other side must get out of power or else.
Divisions in Thai politics are complicated at best and generally revolve around divisions between the working class poor and the middle to upper class elite. The two sides are composed of the People’s Alliance for Democracy (yellow shirts) and the United Front for Democracy Against Dictatorship (red shirts). The conflict started as the yellow shirts formed in 2005 as a response to then Prime Minister Thaksin Shinawatra’s corruption and anti-monarchy charges. Thaksin was charged with selling shares of his corporation to foreign investors tax free while he was in office. Clashes between his supporters and the yellow shirts ensued and led to a 2006 military coup and the banning of his political party.
His policies resonated with many poor and working class, especially in the north, near his home town of Chiang Mai. Many of his supporters united to create the red shirt movement in direct protest to his ousting, the military and their influence on Thai politics, and the yellow shirt movement who are fervent supporters of the royal family and the military. Thaksin, a former police officer, was also largely supported by the police. This made tensions even worse as the police and military are often involved. A common saying in Thailand is that relations between the military and the police are like Pineapples and Watermelon: both are green on the outside but inside ones red and ones yellow.
The undercurrent of distrust between the two sides once again flared up several years later. The first of these waves of protests happened in 2009 and most seriously in 2010. The protests on March 14th, 2010 were the largest in Thai history. Many Red Shirts collected blood and poured it on the grounds of governmental offices. Army tanks and troops were deployed as tensions escalated. Protesters were struck by cars and grenades were thrown in the camps. In April, 2010 the violence hit its peak when the army fired live ammunition at the red shirt protesters, killing over a dozen people. Central World, a large department store in the center of the city was lit on fire as the military broke up the crowds and arrested a few major figureheads.
In 2011, riding a wave of support from her brothers supporters and rural voters, Yingluck Shinawatra– Thaksin’s sister- was elected as Prime Minister; a position she held for almost five years. At the end of her time as Prime Minister she was caught up in a rice-pledging scheme which involved several of her top ministers when she was the chairperson of the rice committee. This led to a long investigation during which, she tried to clear her brother of corruption charges which would allow him back into the country without the threat of imprisonment.
In 2013 a wave of violent protests erupted. This time the yellow shirts took to the streets in huge numbers. Entire city blocks in the heart of the financial district were occupied by the red and yellow shirts and the most extreme factions of both carried out shootings and attacks on the other, killing and wounding dozens. The economy came to a standstill as the world watched and waited for what looked like the start of a civil war. A political crisis ensued and in 2014 the military once again performed a coup which resulted in a period of strict media censorship and martial law and effectively broke up the protests which were holding the capital hostage.
Life in Bangkok during this time was full of uncertainty. Major news outlets only broadcasted updates from military leaders and a 10pm curfew was put on the entire city. Tanks and troops would enforce the curfew and would roll down the streets at night, arresting those who were disobeying. Foreign news outlets were silenced and for a brief moment some social media sites like Facebook were barred, leaving many people angry and worried. Within time however life slowly returned to normal, and again Thailand was under the control of its powerful military and tension between the divided political colors subsided.
Getting Around
Originally transportation around the city was often done by boat. The vast network of rivers and canals made transporting large amounts of people and goods both practical and aesthetically pleasing. As Bangkok’s popularity grew oversees it took on the moniker “Venice of the East.” Due to modernization and uncontrollable expansion many of the canals were filled in and paved over to create roads and highways that would form the vast network that allowed urban expansion far away from the city center. Unfortunately the canals provided more than a surface for transporting goods, they were the city’s primary flood control. The increase in floods was not the only problem. Traffic became so bad that it made the city famous for nonstop gridlock and smog. The Venice of the East had turned into modern metropolis full of all the pitfalls. The government responded to the choking gridlock and infrastructure problems by creating an advanced and efficient transit system.
Bangkok has four rapid transit systems: The MRT underground rail system, the BTS skytrain, the airport link, and the BRT bus. These systems link passengers to almost every corner of the city and greatly reduce traffic. They’re clean, efficient, safe, and are a great way to get around while seeing more of the city. Inside every terminal, especially on the BTS, there are food and drink stalls, resembling small airports.
Avoid taking tuk tuks as they will generally rip you off. Always ask taxi drivers to use the meters, especially from the airports. Motorbike taxis are always cheap and fast yet they are incredibly dangerous. During my year in Thailand I unfortunately witnessed some horrible accidents involving these motorbikes which left their passengers mangled underneath the wreckage.
All along the river and canals are the boat taxis which are cheap and efficient. Many people, both locals and foreigners rely on these large boats to get to and from work and many of the major tourist destinations.
Markets
For me, life in the city would be meaningless without the markets. They’re vibrant and chaotic places where you can find just about anything from live turtles to sex toys. Most are simple farmers markets set up next to temples and serve as grocery and clothing stores for the working class. It is here where you will find, in my eyes, the real Bangkok.
Rod Fai Night Market
Just outside the BTS skytrain stop of On Nut is Rod Fai Night Market. The market moved from its original location in 2013. Since then, it’s become one of the city’s most popular markets, specializing in antiques. Like other large markets it has plenty of other merchandise and of course food. Being a night market it has plenty of small bars with plastic stool seating. This is a perfect place to grab an ice cold lager and people watch.
Chatuchak Weekend Market
Chatuchak weekend market is said to be the largest market in Asia. While not my favorite in the city it’s worth visiting at least once for the sheer size and variety of items for sale here. Navigating the neverending alleyways which are mostly covered by a thin roof you can become disoriented really fast. Almost 12,000 vendors crowd the complex, selling everything from clothing, plants, antiques, and food.
The famous clock tower stands as the central meeting point as the rest of the stalls radiate out in the shape of a boat. Haggling is a must here, although it’s not as intense or as necessary as in the Middle East or in India. Still, as a foreigner you will be offered the highest price initially. I generally tell them half or a little less of their initial offer and only if I really want the item. You can generally work your way up to a price that’s somewhere in the middle. This practice is becoming less common as more boutique and modern stores open up.
The best way to get here is by the BTS train to Mochit station.
Asiatique the Riverfront
Along the Chao Phraya river is the trendy and popular bazaar and shopping district known as Asiatique. It’s popular with locals and has amazing restaurants and stores selling unique items at reasonable prices. It’s divided between four districts containing everything from a Calypso Cabaret show to a puppet theater among the shops, restaurants, and food stalls. Many musicians come here to perform to the wondering audience of shoppers, families, and couples. A large ferris wheel and riverfront promenade make this the perfect date spot.
Yaowarat (Chinatown)
Some of my favorite memories of Bangkok happened with friends in Chinatown. I would often come here on my own, familiarizing myself with the local shops and tucked away temples and restaurants. Having Thai-Chinese family I had the privilege of being taken to the best restaurants, with a proud history, and even prouder loyal patronage. When a good friend, whos family is originally from Taiwan, came to visit, the first place I took her, knowing she was an extreme foodie like myself, was Yaowarat street. Here I was able to show her all the amazing spots I found or was introduced to. Like a little kid showing off his toys, I found myself gleaming with excitement showing her what the area has to offer. We ended up eating for hours straight, and then after walking around and socializing with some elderly locals at a small temple, went out and ate some more.
After Rama I moved the capital of the kingdom from Thonburi to Rattanakosin in the late 18th century, Rattanakosins original inhabitants, mostly Chinese, were moved to the Samphanthawong District nearby. It has since become the center of Thailand’s Chinese and Thai Chinese community and has become one of the densest populated urban areas in the city. People come here for two things more than anything: food and gold. When a free trade agreement was signed with the UK in 1855, in the form of the Bowring Treaty, it spawned many new businesses and attracted waves of Chinese immigrants, making it one of the largest Chinatowns in the world. The gold market was one of the industries that flourished here, even when the economy and neighborhoods prosperity waned in certain years.
Today Chinatown attracts many visitors, both foreign and Thai. It can be disorienting finding a good place to eat that’s also affordable. The trick, just like anywhere in the world, is to eat where the locals eat. When you see a line out the door, and people packed into small tables looking impatient to get their food, going into a feeding frenzy on overdrive when it arrives, it’s generally a good sign that you want to eat there. During the day it’s all about dim sum. Most of the immigrants to Bangkok come from southern China and Cantonese cooking is extremely competitive here.
At night the neighborhood is even more lively. Food stalls and small vendors open up all over, offering unique dishes and specialities that attract hordes of people from around the city and beyond. Many local temples remain open as people come to light incense and pay respects. With fragrant incense smoke mixing in with the aroma of street food, the loud excitement of people and motorbikes all around you, and the neon lights and lanterns shimmering everywhere, it becomes a cacophony of stimulation for all your senses and one of the most exciting places to be in the city.
During Chinese New Year Yaowarat street turns into a huge party. Dragon dancers, firecrackers, and beautiful floats parade down the street as onlookers gather along the side streets and in the cafes and food stalls lining the streets. Its an auspicious time for many families and businesses and is one of the most exciting festivals to partake in.
Bangkok’s Palaces and Wats
Bangkok is the centre of Thailand’s monarchy and Theravada Buddhist religion. Unsurprisingly the city has hundreds of temples, known as wats, and exuberant palaces. Visiting them all is a daunting endeavor; even my year long residency was not enough to cover them all. I’ve included my favorites below and the ones I feel should be visited. Some are on the tourist trail, others are not. Bangkok’s wats are stunningly gorgeous buildings. They are the centers of their communities and key to preserving Thai Buddhism and meditation.
Many wats offer meditation retreats although most are not geared towards foreigners. If interested in learning about meditation or participating in a retreat just research a few places online, most are quite good and worth the experience.
Grand Palace and Wat Phra Kaew
After ousting king Taksin in the 18th century and moving the capital across the river, King Rama I instructed his architects and builders to construct a grand palace surrounded by royal residences and temples. Originally built from wood, the palace and temples were eventually reconstructed using stone and brick acquired from the ruined buildings in the former capital of Ayutthaya.
The layout is similar to the former royal palace in Ayutthaya, with four main sections: the inner, middle, and outer courts, and the Temple of the Emerald Buddha. Originally the outer and middle courts housed government offices and ministries while the inner court contained the king’s harem. Since after WWII most government functions have moved to modern buildings outside the old city. The complex is now used for royal and religious ceremonies and is a major tourist attraction.
Wat Phra Kaew (Temple of the Emerald Buddha)
No other site in Bangkok attracts as many tourists and religious pilgrims than Wat Phra Kaew. The golden spires tower over the old city center and royal palaces and are some of the most photogenic structures in the city. The temple is regarded as the most sacred in Thailand and is used by the royal family in almost all major religious ceremonies.
The traditional Thai Rattanakosin style is stunning and features intricate facades embellished with mosaiced pillars and intricate orange and green roofing. The inside of the temple is decorated with paintings depicting the Buddha’s life and enlightenment.
Inside the central prayer room sits the most honored relic in Thailand. The Emerald Buddha is the most symbolic palladium of Bangkok and a national symbol of Thai buddhism. Thousands of people come here annually to pay respects and see the statue first hand. Although it’s a symbol of Thailand its true origins are said to come from ancient India. It was discovered in the 14th century, in the Northern territory of Chiang Rai and housed in several locations throughout Northern Thailand until being brought to Vientiane, the capital of modern Laos, in 1564. After general Chao Phraya took the city he ordered it to be moved to his new capital in Thonburi in 1779 until Rama I ordered it moved to its final resting place in Wat Phra Kaew.
Contrary to its name, the 66cm high Buddha is likely made from jasper or jade, yet it’s never been analyzed. Thai law prohibits anyone other than the king or the highest royal during his absence from touching it. It’s adorned with different sets of golden clothing depending on the season. It’s housed inside a large enclosure seated in the lotus posture on a pedestal of gold and precious stones with a carving of the deity Garuda at its base.
Other sacred buildings and monuments are located within the 230 acre temple grounds and contain many sacred relics and other items. Near the entry gate stands the blackened bronze statue of a hermit. Many Thais believe the statue, which depicts a former medicine man, has healing powers and people line up to lay flowers and decorations at its feet.
Three tall golden pagodas stand on the north end of the temple. The ashes of the Buddha are said to be contained in the western pagoda.
Another interesting part of the temple is the model of Angkor Wat. The story goes that the Thai king wanted the original angkor wat disassembled and rebuilt in Thailand as a display of Thailand’s rule over Cambodia. Instead the project was scrapped due to its infeasibility and a large replica was built instead.
The Grand Palace is open daily from 8:30am to 3:30pm unless it’s being used for ceremonial purposes. The easiest way to reach the temple if you’re outside of the old city center is by river taxi. The stop is called Tha Chang, and the palace is just on the other side of the food vendors and gift shops. Currently the entrance fee is 500 baht and a strict dress code is enforced, including the covering of tattoos.
Wat Pho
A short walk south of the Grand Palace is Wat Pho, one of Bangkok’s oldest and most revered temples; famous for its reclining Buddha. It was built in the 16th century, left dilapidated by the end of the Ayutthaya period, and rebuilt by Rama I after he relocated the capital to Bangkok. King Rama I had carvings and statues from ravished Ayutthayan temples brought here to be exhibited. During the reign of Rama III significant renovations and expansions were added and it became Thailand’s first University and center for traditional Thai massage, a tradition kept alive today.
The temple complex is divided between two walled compounds. The southern compound houses the living quarters for the monks and other administrative facilities and is closed to visitors. The Northern compound is where the temple buildings are located. The central building in the complex is the Phra Ubosot, or main ordination hall, where all ceremonies and services are performed. Built in the Ayuthaya and later Rattanakosin styles it rests on a raised marble platform, supported by massive stone balustrades each depicting the Ramakien, Thailand’s version of the Hindu epic Ramayana.
Inside the temple hall is the golden Buddha sitting on top of a gold and crystal pedestal underneath a nine tiered umbrella that signifies Thailand’s royal authority. The buddha image is believed to be from the Ayutthaya period.
Surrounding the main hall and courtyard is Phra Rabiang, a double cloister containing over 400 images of the Buddha, collected from various regions in Thailand. Four stupas called Phra Prang were constructed at the four corners of the courtyard, each covered in intricate tile carvings.
The four most prominent stupas known as Phra Maha Chedi Si Rajakarn are located just west of the main hall. One contains the remnants of the great Buddha from Ayutthaya and the other three hold the ashes of Thailand’s first Chakri Kings. The stupas are 42 meters high and their exteriors are beautifully decorated.
Most people visiting Wat Pho come to see the famous chapel of the reclining Buddha, known as Phra Buddhasaiyas. Inside is the massive gold plated 46m by 15m reclining Buddha; one of the largest in Thailand. Its posture is mimicking the Buddha entering Nirvana; resting like a lion. The soles of the feet are plated with mother of pearl depictions of the auspicious symbols of the Buddha and the inner chakra of the foot. In the corridor of the hall are 108 bronze bowls where donations can be made.
Entrance into the temple grounds is currently 100 Baht. Like many other temples there is a dress code.
Wat Arun
On the banks of the Thonburi side of the Chao Phraya river, across from the Royal Palace and Wat Pho is the Temple of Dawn or Wat Arun. Named after the Hindu god Aruna, which is the personification of the reddish glow of the rising sun, the temple is one of the most beautiful Buddhist structures in the world. Best viewed during the evening, the setting son illuminates its tiled stupas, creating a breathtaking backdrop to the city.
The temple was most likely built before the 17th century, during the height of the Ayutthaya period. It has since undergone major renovations, most often replacing its tiles which cover the exterior of the stupas. The central Khmer-style tower known as a prang is covered in intricate colored porcelain faience. Four smaller prang surround the central tower and are covered by porcelain and seashells. The textured exterior of the temple make it unique amongst the more traditional Thai temples in Bangkok.
Much of its design represents Hindu and Buddhist cosmology. The central prang is an architectural representation of Mount Meru, which is the center of the universe in Buddhist cosmology. The different layers of the prang indicate the realms of existence and the realms of heaven at the top spire. A steep staircase leads up to the top of the prangs base, giving you a great view of the temple complex and the surrounding cityscape.
Wat Paknam Phasicharoen
Just off the tourist trail is Wat Panam Phasicharoen, a royal wat established somewhere in the middle of the Ayutthaya period in the 14th and 15th centuries. In 1916 Luang Pu Sodh Candasaro became the abbot and brought his meditation techniques, known as vijjā dhammakāya, with him. The temple slowly became the center for this style of meditation as well as becoming the largest school in Thailand for the ancient Pali language, which was the language of the Buddha Siddhartha Gautama.
Getting to the temple requires some walking or a taxi ride as none of Bangkok’s mass transit go near it; the closest BTS stop is Talat Phlu. Regardless of its lack of accessibility, the temple is one of my favorites and well worth a visit. The temple complex is surrounded by canals, making it seem like a small island in the middle of a densely populated neighborhood. Many buildings make up the complex, some dating back to the Ayutthaya period.
The most impressive structure is the Maharatchamongkhon stupa. Built in 2004, the 80 meter stupa rises in the middle of the complex. It contains hundreds of impressive relics and buddha images. Its meditation hall however, is what sets the stupa apart from any other in Thailand. Incredibly intricate and vividly colorful murals of Buddhist cosmology adorns the walls and ceilings as it rises above a smaller emerald green glass stupa in the halls center. All energy is focused up towards the ceiling and it’s hard not to be transfixed to such a beautiful sight. Everytime I visited this amazing temple I was left feeling like I was absorbed into a precious piece of art while clearing my mind in meditation.
Wat Suthat
The Giant Red Swing standing at its entrance is what greets the visitor to one of Bangkok’s ten holiest temples, Wat Suthat. The towering building is one of the finest examples of Thai architecture in the city, with its sweeping roof, teak doors, and elaborate murals decorating the inside walls.
The temple is located in the city’s old center, near the Temple of the Emerald Buddha, Grand Palace and Wat Pho. It was built in the early 19th century and houses the Buddha image Phra Sri Sakyamuni and 156 intricately sculpted Buddha images aligning its exterior. The most famous aspect of this temple, other than its architecture, is the giant red swing which continues to be a popular photo destination amongst locals and visitors alike.
Wat Traimit (Temple of the Golden Buddha)
At the end of Yaowarat street, near Hua Lamphong Railway Station, sits the largest golden buddha known in the world. The 3 meter, 5.5 ton, 18 karat gold statue was most likely created during the Sukhothai Dynasty of the 13th-14th centuries. It rests in the main hall of the newly built Wat Traimit, elevated above the busy city streets below. The Wat is also home to a Chinatown Heritage Center.
The statue’s early history is an enigma. During the Ayutthaya period, at the height of the Burmese invasions, it was coated with concrete and glass, making it just another inconspicuous Buddha image. When the Burmese invaded the capital city they melted down any golden objects and severed the heads of buddha images around the city. Yet the golden buddha was left untouched; one of the largest golden objects in the world completely ignored.
Left alone in the ruins of the old city it was finally moved to Bangkok under orders from the king. In the early 19th century the massively heavy object was moved to Wat Chotanaram and again to Chinatowns Wat Traimit after the former fell into disuse and decrepitude. Wat Traimit was a small temple, located in Bangkok’s Chinatown. Because of its lack of space the golden buddha, still hidden from the world, was kept underneath a tin roof.
In the 1950’s a new building was created to house the image. As it was being relocated it was damaged, revealing a shimmer of gold. In 1954, after removing the exterior concrete and glass, the statue was revealed. The statue, having been hidden for centuries, only to be discovered in 1954, almost 2500 years after the Buddha Siddhartha Gautama’s death, caused many Thais to regard the auspice as a miracle.
Lumphini Park
When urban fatigue starts to settle in, many people in the city center retire to Lumphini park for some R&R. Bangkok’s answer to central park is a 142 acre green space full of trees, pagodas, and an artificial lake where you can rent boats. Many events and music festivals are held here annually and the park is also the center for political gatherings. Bangkok’s first public library was built here and recently renovated to resemble a big red ladybug.
Bangkok’s largest park is home to an impressive amount of wildlife. The tall trees provide a wonderful habitat for various tropical birds making it an urban ornithologists paradise. For me the most unique thing about the park is the population of large monitor lizards roaming about. These massive reptiles, some almost two meters long, can be seen swimming, basking, or even running along the shoreline of the lake. Temperamental and somewhat aggressive if threatened, these animals should be viewed from afar.
Bangkok Art and Culture Centre
A hub of creativity and the promotion of Thai fine Arts, the Bangkok Art and Culture Centre is an amazing place to visit. The massive building houses small studios and stores selling art and clothing as well as offering workshops for a variety of things from crafts to fine art. Spending time in one of its many cafes is a great way to spend an afternoon.
Bangkok National Museum
Thailand’s most famous museum is home to an impressive collection of artifacts chronicling the country’s dynamic history. It was opened in 1874 by King Rama V and has since grown to incorporate Buddhist relics from neighboring countries as well sculptures, cultural treasures, art, and relics from the Siam of antiquity.
Erawan Shrine
In 2015 Thailand was confronted with the worst terrorist attack in the country’s history when a bomb exploded in front of the shrine, killing 20 people. As I used to visit this shrine regularly, it’s a painful reminder of the wickedness human beings are capable of.
Painful events aside Erawan Shrine is one of the most visited and most beautiful little shrines in the city. It was built in 1956 by the Erawan Hotel. It depicts the four faced Hindu god Brahma, who is the creator god in Hinduism. Since its establishment the area has become a popular place for musical performances and gathering spot for people needing a break from the busy shopping areas around the Chit Lom BTS station.
Side Trips
There’s much more to the Bangkok region than the cosmopolitan capital city. From magnificent temples, massive green spaces, and ruined ancient cities, there’s plenty to see just a short distance away. Venture out for a day and you will discover more about Thailand and its rich history and culture.
Ayutthaya
Between the 14th and 18th centuries Bangkok was just a tiny fishing village just down the river from a capital city known throughout the world for its riches and power. Ayutthaya, the sleepy little town 80 kilometers to its north, still contains relics of its legacy as the seat of a vast kingdom and is well worth visiting today.
In 1350, the Siamese kingdom moved their capital from Sukhothai to Ayutthaya. Through international trade and regional commerce it flourished into one of the largest and most influential cosmopolitan areas in Asia. This prosperity lasted until the Burmese army raised it to the ground in 1767, effectively ending the kingdom of Siam and ushering in the development of modern Thailand and Bangkok.
The site of the Siamese capital was chosen strategically. Ayutthaya was built on an island surrounded by the Chao Phraya, Lopburi, and Pa Sak rivers. The large tidal bore which inundates the mouth of the Chao Phraya river would make a capital city built any further south susceptible to attack from ocean going vessels. By having their capital up river, the Siamese kingdom could defend it easier while maintaining ocean going trade through the Chao Phraya river.
Today the old city is a protected UNESCO World Heritage Site and managed by the Thai government as a historic park. The new city was built next to the ruins. The easiest way to get to Ayutthaya is by bus or train. If you take the train you enter Ayutthaya by taking a small boat from the train station docks across the river into the new town. From there it’s best to rent a bike and explore the old ruins on your own leisurely pace. There is so much to explore and learn about in this small town, and its laid back pace and small town charm make it the perfect side trip from Bangkok.
Bang Krachao
Hidden amongst the urban sprawl and overlooked by many is Bang Krachao, the overgrown forested area known as the city’s Green Lung. The best way to reach it is to take a boat (most likely a long-tail boat) across the river for THB10 per person. The boats moor around the piers near Wat Klong Toey Nok – a charming little Wat which is also worth a visit. Once you arrive there are small food stalls and bike rental places and pretty much nothing else. That’s the thrill of Bang Krachao, it transports you back to old Bangkok, when it was just a small village on the mighty Chao Phraya river.
Renting bikes is the best way to get around here. The raised alleyways cut through swamps and small raised homes. Towering tropical fruit trees have overgrown into thick jungle. Stray dogs chase you as you get lost in its grottos of plantlife. There are parks and botanical gardens too which contain an abundance of rare plants and animals, with small ponds full of fish and aquatic animals. Bang Krachao is also known as a bird watchers paradise as it attracts armies of beautiful and sometimes rarely scene birds to its green tree tops and swampy shores.
My favorite market is located here: Bang Nam Pheung. Here you will find a traditional floating market with fair priced foods and souvenirs mostly sold on top of small boats as was done traditionally all over the city before the rivers and swamps were filled in to make way for urban expansion. The food here is superb and cheap. I would often starve myself and work up an appetite spending the morning biking around while retiring at the market for hours to gorge myself mad. Few tourists and foreigners ever make it out here, most not even knowing of its existence. This sense of happening onto something secret adds to the thrill and attraction this place has on people. Hopefully I don’t have too much of an impact on its popularity with foreigners as, like anywhere tucked away and holding so much charm, its bound to be exploited and corrupted.
Ko Kred
An hour north of the city center, where the Chao Phraya river drastically widens, is the man made island known as Ko Kred. It’s located in the Nonthaburi district of Bangkok. Getting here is most conveniently done by river boat from Bangkok’s northernmost public riverboat station: Nonthaburi pier. From here you hop on a longboat to battle the upstream current to get to the island.
The island was built in the 18th century as part of the massive canal expansion projects initiated then. Originally the islands residents came from the Burmese Mon region. The Mon were largely responsible with spreading Theravada Buddhism throughout Southeast Asia. For hundreds of years they have integrated into Thai society yet many aspects of their culture stay intact and preserved, especially on Ko Kred.
The island has several charming temples and markets as well as wonderful restaurants scattered throughout it. Renting a bike allows you to explore its beautiful villages and rice paddies. The islands food is unique and it specializes in noodles and fried flowers and herbs which are the perfect snack to enjoy while biking around. Khao chae, which is a royal Thai dish of Mon heritage, consisting primarily of rice soaked in cold jasmine scented water, is the islands speciality. It’s eaten along with savory side dishes, never to be mixed together, but enjoyed bite for bite accompanied with the cool fragrant rice. It’s the perfect food for the hot and sticky climate of Bangkok.
Cuisine
Where do I start? Thailand holds one of the worlds greatest and proudest food cultures. This bold statement, like any opinion on the greatest cuisine in the world, is entirely subjective. That said, the variety of flavor profiles, range of ingredients, and wealth of beloved dishes that have become famous internationally, make it hard to argue that Thailand’s cuisine isn’t among the best. Like any capital city, Bangkok showcases each regions cuisine, with everything from small noodle carts to Michelin starred restaurants. Bangkok is a food lovers dream, especially if you enjoy intense flavors generous on umami and a healthy dose of capsaicin on the tongue.
The diversity of Thai cuisine comes from its complex geography and even more complex history. It’s a country that runs from the foothills of the himalayas; with high altitude plateaus and forested mountains, to tropical rainforests and lush island chains full of sealife. Through the centuries it has drawn in immigrants from all over Asia, bringing their cooking traditions and ingredients with them, and incorporating their knowledge with the existing regional traditions. This has created an incredible melting pot of ingredients and techniques, drawn from around the world, to create our modern concept of Thai food.
For me what makes this cuisine so special is its use of plants, many of which have medicinal properties and bold flavors. Turmeric, galangal, kaffir lime leaves, ginger, garlic, and a long list of lesser known herbs and plant leaves are used in high quantities. Combined with umami rich sauces, chilis, and meats gives it its health conscious, punch-to-the-face, boldness that sends the taste buds and olfactory system into overdrive.
In Bangkok it seems nobody can go hungry. There are few places with this many dining options, often available 24 hours a day. Street food is king, and in this busy metropolis people are often seen hurrying from work to go to their favorite vendors, often eating on plastic stools on the street. Even stray dogs seem to be well fed.
Delicious and affordable food can be found just about anywhere, 24-hours a day. People hurriedly crowd into small pop up shops serving just about anything you can imagine. After I came home from a long day at work I would often walk down the block, on a busy corner street in front of a small mosque near Asiatique, and order Pad See Yew (stir fried noodles) from my favorite vendor. The southern-Thai style noodle stand is one of many serving the small muslim community and other hungry regulars like myself. The owner, a woman with the warmest smile, would brighten up every time I’d come and wait in line for her noodles. She had only one wok surrounded by her ingredients, all sitting on top of her propane lit grill atop a small pushcart. Without a kitchen, waiters, or staff and only a few plastic chairs, she was able to attract more clientele than most restaurants. And even with the bare minimum, the aroma of her wok after years of use, ginger, garlic, chilis, and her warm smile made sure people like myself would come back for more.
With all the attention Bangkok’s street food scene receives its easy to overlook its restaurants and this would be a mistake. From century old family run hole-in-the-walls to Michelin starred fine dining experiences, Bangkok has it all. Every year new and innovative restaurants pop up, attracting world renowned chefs from Thailand and abroad. As the limitless boundaries of fine dining are woven into the fabric of traditional Thai cuisine more and more accolades will be rewarded to the city’s restaurants and Bangkok’s preeminence as a global food capital will be secure.
Durian
Few things on earth garner as much obsessive love and utter repulsion than the Durian fruit. Of the hundreds of varieties or so found in markets across Thailand, the varieties grown around the Bangkok region are said to be some of the best in the world. Every year durian hunters like myself crowd the markets looking for the best fruits available. Many people end up paying a fortune to the top growers. Even now, as I write this article, my cravings start to go get the best of me.
Durian is an incredibly divisive fruit. Its pungent aroma and hard spikes make it somewhat of an enigma to the uninitiated and to make it even more alluring it’s banned from many public areas like subways, airports, and some stores and offices. There seems to be no middle ground; you either love it or you hate it.
A durians taste ranges from vanilla bean to aged rum to toffee, pineapple and ice cream. Depending on the variety, its color, taste, fragrance, and volume will be quite varied. It’s incredibly rich and full of sugar, fat, and rich umami flavor; just the kind of food that triggers the part of our brains associated with survival to go into overdrive. The strong sulfur smell associated with the fruit occurs because they ripen from the inside, releasing gases and strong aromas from the flesh. If given the chance everyone should try the “king of fruits” at least once and chances are you might end up a fan.
A city of Cafes
Hidden amongst the tall buildings and small Sois of Silom, Sukhumvit, Ari, and the dozens of shopping malls are the city’s quirky and boundary-pushing cafes. As the city’s prosperity grows so to does its coffee culture. Surprising to most visitors is that due to high import tariffs most coffee beans used are grown in Northern Thailand. This focus on local Thai products has helped fuel the boom with local and foreign enthusiasts hunting the best coffee in the city.
It’s not all about the beans. As part marketing gimmick and part creative expression most cafes have taken on their own unique character. Say you want to drink a cup of Joe out of a 12th century medieval apothecary vile or a life sized pink doll house, Bangkok’s got it. While themed coffee shops are common, many, more subtle, establishments exist around the city. Often some of the highest rated desserts and pastries are found here. The scene is always evolving so it’s best to do some current research on what kind of coffee experience you’re looking for and as always try to stumble on something unexpected.
Night Life
Thai people, like most people around the world, love to party, and Thai parties always center around food and music. Many local bars, banquet halls, and peripheral restaurants suddenly become lively all-night events. Local bars are simple establishments yet are generally very fun to go to. The locals will make you feel welcome and even with language barriers you may find yourself in the middle of heated conversations, good laughs, and late night antics. Working in Thailand is even better as work parties can be some of the best and most rowdy experiences.
Thailand unfortunately gained a reputation as a capital of sex tourism during the Vietnam war. As it was largely unregulated, the industry came with all its most nefarious aspects: child prostitution, organized crime, etc. The country has been able to clean up its image in recent years thanks to stricter law enforcement and legislation, as well as rising standards of living. However the underbelly of Thailand’s nightlife still remains and there are a few areas of Bangkok still catering to this particular clientele. Some streets (Soi) have become synonymous with sex work: Soi Cowboy, Soi 6 or Patpong; yet even these notorious streets are much tamer than they used to be and mostly filled with tourists and go-go bars.
As Bangkok’s standing as a global city continues to rise so does its alignment with other cities and their late night culture. Modern Thais now have more money and more exposure to scenes like Tokyo, London, or New York and have set up their city to be just as respected. However duel pricing between Thais and foreigners is still very common so expect to pay more, especially in the clubs.
Rooftop bars are popping up everywhere due to the high rise boom in the last decade. These establishments are not catered towards the working class and often have strict dress codes. They are popular amongst locals and expats on business meetings or dates. They all have their own character and unique ambiance so if you have the money and the time it’s worth checking out a few of them. Some of my favorites include:
The Red Sky at the Centara Grand – Located on top of the Centara Grand skyscraper, it serves amazing cocktails and its views of the grand palace and all the temples in the old city are spectacular.
Vertigo at Banyan Tree- On top of the 61st story Banyan Tree Hotel is this iconic rooftop bar. I like Vertigo because of the unobstructed views of the cities skyline.
The Long Table at Column- Probably the most trendy of Bangkok’s rooftop bars, although it technically isn’t on the roof. The views are not the best but the cocktails are incredible. Noteworthy is the 70 seater bar table which is supposedly one of the longest in the world.
Bangkok has a few centres of nightlife and cater towards a varying clientele. I’m not a fan of Khao San Road, known as the hub of backpackers and expats, as few locals will ever go here. Over priced elephant printed yoga pants and Singha beer shirts are sold here en-masse and the clubs are swarmed with young foreigners (farang). Places like Soi Cowboy are similarly catered towards western tourists although the vibe is more aligned with a Las Vegas strip club.
My favorite areas tend to attract a mixture of clientele and some areas are more geared towards Thais. Most of these areas are located in the Sukhumvit neighborhood. Clubs like Beam and Sing Sing theater attract some of the worlds best talent and are set to compete against some of the best clubs in the world. The later is known for its burlesque theater performances and stage dancing as well as amazing music and drinks. DJ Station is still the center for Bangkok’s gay club scene yet can be an incredibly fun night out regardless of sexual orientation. These clubs are frequented by locals and foreigners alike with a respectful and fun loving atmosphere making them some of my favorites in Asia.
Thonglor Soi 10 and the surrounding area is quite upscale yet is home to some of the best clubs in the city. Crowds of Thais dressed to kill frequent this street. Many of the clubs here are responsible for nurturing the city’s growing EDM scene, attracting some world class talent and local up-and-coming heros.
RCA (Royal City Avenue) was once an off the radar up and coming late night area relatively unknown to foreigners and expats. This has changed over the years as the area has risen to become arguably the most popular club district. Route 66 and Onyx have become the neighborhoods poster childs for late night shenanigans. Onyx can hold a massive crowd of over 2500 people and aims to become the best party in the city.
Smaller venues and underground scenes are also found scattered throughout the city. Located in the mostly residential neighborhood of Sathorn is the club/ hang out spot JAM. It was started by a well known Thai writer-photographer who also founded the popular lifestyle magazine Bang! The club functions as part coffee shop and part art gallery during the day and transforms to a fun and creative music venue by night. Live music, DJ’s, and other underground acts frequent this place. It’s become a centre for creative individuals and lesser known artists to perform and meet other like minded creatives in the city. JAM became my favorite place to party in the city and felt like a home base for many Thais and foreigners alike.
I spent a year of my life living in this massive metropolis. A language and culture far different from my own, it was at times an environment that seemed inaccessible. Yet eventually, the barriers came down and together with new friends, many of which were born and raised in the city, I had some of the most eye opening and liberating experiences of my life. For anyone visiting for the first time I would recommend bringing a lot of water and exploring as much as you can. Stay away from Khao San Road, Soi Cowboy, and the more foreigner oriented areas, visit as many markets and temples as you can, and avoid the tuk tuks and stray dogs. Explore the food scene by visiting as many crowded food stalls and unassuming restaurants as you can. And most certainly try to meet some locals who will be more than happy to share their incredible city and culture with you.